HELP: Engine mount bolts won't go back into the subframe
#1
HELP: Engine mount bolts won't go back into the subframe
I had to remove my oil pan over the weekend and had to lift the motor up a bit to do that. I did it by another memeber's method of lifting the motor and dropping the pan to the subframe and finally pulling it out sideways by the downpipe.
After reinstalling the pan perimiter bolts, I bolted up the engine mounts (yes, I am using the correct ones for the respective sides of the motor). Now the crappy thing is that I just can't seem to get both mount bolts to go back into their holes in the subframe. I can get the passenger one (it's got a slotted hole) no problem, but the driver's side one IS JUST SO CLOSE! I remember when I lifted the motor up, there was some resistance due to the tight fit of the mount bolts. I heard it "pop" when they finally came out.
The car's front is on jack stands and I've been lifting the motor with a engine lift (the kind you put on the shock towers) to pull the motor up (during the oil pan job). I had to give that back to my buddy so now I'm using a floor jack with a 2x4 to lift the motor/tranny.
Any suggestions? This is really annoying!
After reinstalling the pan perimiter bolts, I bolted up the engine mounts (yes, I am using the correct ones for the respective sides of the motor). Now the crappy thing is that I just can't seem to get both mount bolts to go back into their holes in the subframe. I can get the passenger one (it's got a slotted hole) no problem, but the driver's side one IS JUST SO CLOSE! I remember when I lifted the motor up, there was some resistance due to the tight fit of the mount bolts. I heard it "pop" when they finally came out.
The car's front is on jack stands and I've been lifting the motor with a engine lift (the kind you put on the shock towers) to pull the motor up (during the oil pan job). I had to give that back to my buddy so now I'm using a floor jack with a 2x4 to lift the motor/tranny.
Any suggestions? This is really annoying!
#5
gross polluter
iTrader: (2)
loosen the bolts that hold the mount to the motor enough that you can get the stud into the sub frame. Once they are started you can tighten them back up and drop the motor the rest of the way in. Or you get the poly mounts that 4CNAIR made, they are alot easier when dropping the motor back down.
#7
Constant threat
Same thing happened to me when I reinstalled my engine, until I consulted with the Forum Gurus and they showed me how the screwdriver slots in the mounts work. You see, you use those things to pry on the little tabs that are part of the mounts, and the bolts will pop right in the hole like a **** going for the *****!
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#8
My bitch and the ladies..
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chattanooga, Tn
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Bolt the driverside mount bushing to the sub frame. The right side of the subframe is slotted, but the driver side is not. The left actual mount has has a slot to where if the engine is stait it will go right in. If its not strait your going to have to mucsle **** it.
#9
HAH! Fawker went in :D
Originally Posted by bajaman
Same thing happened to me when I reinstalled my engine, until I consulted with the Forum Gurus and they showed me how the screwdriver slots in the mounts work. You see, you use those things to pry on the little tabs that are part of the mounts, and the bolts will pop right in the hole like a **** going for the *****!
And you sir, are correct! This worked brilliantly. I jacked the motor/trans up just enough to get the mount studs barely sitting on the subframe. I rocked the **** out of the engine on the intake elbow to get it over a bit.
First, I poked around with a smallish screwdriver to move the driver's side mount around... I used the small slotted holes next to the stud holes and some other directions to scoot it over to it's "home" That stud was not "too good for your home!" (Adam Sandler). I did the same for the passenger side mount. Worked like a charm.
Thanks for the advice.
And the analogy is perfect. I felt like i just had a 10x orgasm when the motor dropped