So i was going to pull my front cover off today to install a gasket, but i cannot get the eccentric pulley bolt loose. It's a 93 automatic, by the way. ..in the engine bay. Everything is off eccept that one bolt. I tried an impact wrench with 140 psi on and off for an hour squirting penetrating oil on it in between tries. I also bolted a 3 ft long bar to the pulley to keep the crank from turning with a 1/2 inch breaker bar on the socket/bolt ...no budge. I was pulling very hard and even bent the tiny bolts that were holding the cheater bar on the pulley (you know how small those bolt holes are.) I don't know if someone used lock-tite or what. I'm afraid i'm going to break something. Any other suggestions? Thanks
Sheldon

 

Those bolts can be very right and can have a small amount of loctite on them from the factory.

First off, how big of a tank are you using and what is your gun rated at?

I have had many a nice gun fail at removing a pulley bolt if the tank behind them cannot supply enough CFM to power the gun properly.

 

unless u go to a truk garage and use a 1/2 inch impact gun with 1000lbs of torque you can forget about it .. u need a 2m long pipe with a sturdy wrench and a way to lock the flywheel ... and another friend to keep you from smashing your car with the pipe when it does not come off the first 5 tries
there is no alternative

 

Typically a nice 25 gallon plus tank that can deliver 4+SCFM to a nice 1/2" gun will do it.

 

Get a propane torch ($30) at Home Depot; you need a 600 ft-lbs reverse torque Ingersoll-Rand impact gun.

Heat the bolt for 5-10 minutes; use the impact at the max air pressure. It took me 10 minutes of heating to melt the loctite and you will see the smoke and smell it. That's when you use the impact. Make sure that the flywheel is locked. I have a Mazda flywheel lock.

BTW, be careful about installing the front gasket in the front cover because this could cause the thrust bearings to fall out when you remove the front cover.

 

wow, i guess they're supposed to be that thight? that's crazy. why are they so tight? is it a rotary thing? my 3000gt's unbolt like nothin'. So it's safe to heat the bolt? i was afraid i might warp something. my compressor is a 25 gallon tank, but i'm not sure of the torque rating on my gun.

 

Loctite and heat...

 

okay, so when i do get it off, is it recomended to use lock-tite on reassembly?

 

I would not heat anything around that front cover. Make a tool to hold that front pulley tight and use a large breaker bar and 4 foot cheater. IT will come loose. I've done 5 E-bolts and they have all came out the same way. Research my post and look at the tool I made and sold.





Later

 

^--- use a huuuuge cheater bar...ie jack handle, 4 foot should work great! thats what i use...breaker bar from harborfreight and the 4 foot jack handle. never fails...you need to use the sst to hold the flywheel in place etc...

 

thanks for all of the great replys, everyone. i shall try again in the morning.

 

Ive tried the breaker bar thing it can work but its needs to be like 5 foot long,,, i just borrowed a 600ft lb impact gun and the bolt cam off like it was finger tight, amazing !

 

be sure and not really just pull on the breaker bar...give it slight small bounces as well

 

i got it off! thanks everyone for all the advice. i'll buy u all a lollipop.

 

green apple please

 

Describe for us EXACTLY how you did it for all the other newbs to see and experience. If you can do it, so can they


later

 

I have a 80gallon tank with 14cfms, a 1/2 impact that has 1000ftlbs of torque and it rarely gets it loose without heating the bolt first if it is an original engine or a reman.

 

i finally got it off by making a tool like badddrx7 and bolted it to the pulley with a 3 ft handle. i then used a 1/2 in beaker bar with another 3 ft cheater bar. it popped on the second pull.

 

when you put it back together make sure you dont do anything to "pinch" the bearings with the spacer...when you put it back together, leave the center bolt out and measure the protrusion of the eccentric shaft. should be no more than 2.4mm if im not mistaken...if its anymore than that your bearing has dropped and is being pinched by the spacer

 

It would have been adviseable to pinch up the flywheel to be sure it did not shift back, but it is too late now. Hopefully, nothing shifted.

 

+1

 

well, i was going ro secure the flywheel, but it's an automatic so the bell housing completely enclosed it. i didn't know any other way.