Tonight I changed my oil (first oil change on new engine with about 1k-1.5k miles on it.) and went out to warm up the oil to check the level. As i was coming back I was in 3rd gear and only pushing about 5 psi when then car felt like it took a crap. I couldnt really tell but it seemed like there was a cloud of light smoke behind me since it was dark and the car ran like crap for the half of a mile home shaking. It sounds deeper and is only idling around 1,000rpm when idle is set for 1,400rpm. it also sounds like crap. here is a link to the youtube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcCjTVM08o0

can you help me out here? I bought the car as a project and was just breaking in the new motor. whats wrong here?

 

Thats the wonderful sound of a one rotor. Do a compression test to make sure. Sorry!

 

i was afraid that thats what it was.... for a compression test, should i have it towed to the dealer?

 

why are you boosting with only 1k miles on the engine? That wasnt a good idea

 

There was something wrong making it idle at 1400, that is way to high unless it is bidgeported, but from the sounds of it and the mention of the "dealer", I doubt that it is. Check the hose going to the map sensor, it may have come off when you were removing your oil filter.

 

As far as boosting goes... i was/have not pushed the car. Like I said I only brought it up to 5psi to check oil pressure and everything in my logs on the microtech look fine. Where can I have a compression test done at? And what should a streetport motor be set to idle at in break in?

i am going to check the map sensor now....
thanks for all the help so far

 

Dude, 2 questions first.
1. Did you put the "New" engine in yourself if not, how did you verify it was new?
2. With a single turbo like a T-67, did you (or the previous owner) use the same fuel/ignition map as the old engine?

Your idle should be 950-1050 (for SP motors).

If your map sensor is not disconnected, check your vacuum reading, is it 10 or lower? If it is, your "new" engine is most likely gone. Do a search for compression test, there are writeups on how to do this, you don't need to tow it to a dealer (and everyone on here will tell you to avoid the dealer like the plague). You just need to get a compression tester from any local auto parts store and a friend to crank the engine for you.

 

There is a compression test how-to on our website. I get virtually all our SP motors to idle smooth right around 780-800 RPM, my raceported engine idles silky smooth around 850 rpm.

 

The previous owner claimed it was a newly rebuilt engine from japtrix. Which the engine did seem to be new as it was the only thing in the engine bay at the time of the purchase. I had Fuego Racing hook everything up and he tuned the base map on the microtech lt10 for break in. I still havent been tuned as I was just working on breaking in the new motor. The map sensor is in place and the vacuum reading is between 8-10.

 

yes thats a bad thing... it should be reading 16-20 inches of mercury. what were your break-in procedures? you should have NOT BOOSTED AT ALL during the first 500-700 miles of your break-in period.

 

i didnt boost until 500 and some miles and since then i had only done it maybe 4-5 times. is there any possibility that i could have some how fouled out both plugs on one of the rotors? the car cranks up as easy as before but still only runs on one rotor.

 

pull your plugs and check thier condition, while your at it, do a compression check.

 

You have very low vacuum...Is the boost gauge fluctuating at idle? Get a compression test done.

Also boosting an engine with low miles won't cause it to grenade if it's build correctly. Think about new RX-7's off the show room floor, many were boosted with less than 10 miles on them and they didn't grenade.

 

All breakin questions aside, at least poke around and check the MAP sensor line.

Dave

 

MAP sensor line seems to be intact and in place. If a small piece of sealant was to get into my intake, could that be the cause? I have a UIM with 2 spots for AUX injectors taht i was not using so Jose Fuego of Fuego Racing sealed it off but now it seems to be leaking air there so i am lead to believe that something broke off in there.

 

You can get a feel for the compression just by removing the plug, (your looking for even pulses each rotor, if there's a pause and you only hear one you lost an apex seal.)if you have three pulses then you can go to the next step and put a gauge on it to see how strong they are.

 

so are you saying i can pull the plugs and try to crank the car?

 

Check the compression test facts in the search it tells you how to correctly do the test. Fuel / throttle /witch plugs to remove etc. And there is something wrong to cause motor to go bad, i broke mine in on the dino at 16 pounds and now run 20 and its still strong! Didnt someone make a post about Fuego's work before?

 

Damn!! I dont know what i'll do when one day i go start my car and it sounded like that.

It does sound kinda bad, i would def get a comp check like everyone said.

Good luck man and sorry if it turns out for the worst.

 

you can also tell by removing your EGI and listening to your starter to see if the sound is consistent.

 

well just changed the plugs and the rear rotor was badly built up with carbon but after changing them, the problem is still there. I am going to check on compression tomorrow and go from there.

 

Haven't heard too much good out of Fuego racing (swapping parts and what have you) any way to confim the motor you have is the one you left them with ?

 

I'm not sure what the basemap for the LT10 looks like, or what "tuning" was done to it, but I wouldn't have been getting into ANY boost without a real tuned map.

 

By the way I like the headlights in the video much more

 

the map looked safe enough to be boosting lightly.... it was running pretty rich under any boost at all. The engine was the same that came with the car. Jose is a good guy its just the work (wiring) he did for me was chinsey. The mechanical stuff he did was good though. plus... he's super cheap on price for the decent work he does. Im debating on whether to have him rebuild for me or rebuild myself or if anyone else has suggestions in the orlando area let me know. I am going to UF starting late August so I dont have A LOT of time but i have a couple months or else the car will sit till christmas break.