Cold Start Issue
and I've searched and searched!

For the last few weeks my 92 FD has been stalling on cold starts revs to 2000 rpm's for a few seconds and fall to 0 and stalls. Starts fine on second crank but recently there's a ticking noise around the UIM/TB and sometimes when it stalls I get a bussing noise from the same area.
Cleaned the dashpot and the anti-afterburn with no luck. The problem is definitely getting worse and so is the ticking sound get louder
and louder with every cold start but run fine after she's warmed up. Had a weeping water pump earlier this year which seem to fix itself after I got my belt tension correct, could a seized water pump be the issue as my drive belt pulley started to squeal when the car gets really hot.

The engine is not heavily modified with only 56,000 kms presently, the only mods are a PFC, Pettit's Intakes, Power pulley, boost gauge, RB exhaust and Pettit's 185 deg Fan Switch.

 

Could it be a solenoid kicking on and off? I've got one that kicks on and off in one of my cars and then sometimes buzzes when the connection is shorting.

 

The idle air controller "IAC" is right by the throttle body. So is the AWS Accelerated Warm-Up System solenoid.

 

Thanks
The idle air controller "IAC" (anti-afterburn) I clean the other day. But this may be the culprit. I'll have to pull it out again and check voltage re: FSM. One of these two may be the buzzing but can it also be the ticking.

 

I bet if you leave the key in the "on" position while it makes noise (and the engine is stopped), you'll see the tachometer bouncing a little
I had that issue a couple months ago
Ended up being an improperly grounded wire adjacent to my PFC/WB02

 

Thanks I'll keep any eye out for it tomorrow.

 

Checked today, no tach bounce at all. But thanks for your input.

 

hmmm i actually have this exact same problem. except mine continues stalling until the car is above 85C. I'll let you know if i figure anything out regarding my issue.

 

sounds like aws

 

AWS....Don't believe JDM has one which mine is. Looked and but not found.

 

really? would i just need to adjust it. I had a feeling it was the AWS.

 

Not sure if the aws is just a solenoid or what, but I usually test solenoids by hooking a 12v battery to the + and - side of the solenoid connector (most times polarity doesn't matter) and see if it clicks on, and stays on.

If your car doesn't have an aws then I would manually test the IAC, and see how it behaves, RXeckless.

 

Alright, I'm going to do a bit more research on the AWS and have another go at the idle. So many things to check/try. its making it unbearable to drive anywhere.

 

Do you have an OEM computer you could swap in for the PFC to check? Since you have no AWS the fast idle control would be mechanical, the wax pellet that extends to release the fast idle. Is it stuck in the extended position maybe? If it were it would probably do what you describe.

 

Yes, I'm going to try to swap the OEM computer back in tomorrow to see if it something to do with the PFC.
Do you mean the thermowax if so I'll check also?

She sat for 5 day now so this will be a good test, these issue all started to pop up a month or so after the PFC was installed and I'm still on the base map. After new vacuum lines, a new IC & Midpipe I planned for this winter I'll be having Marco do a proper tune.

 

^mine was solved by re-installing the OEM ecu. I think i just need to bring it in to be tuned.

 

Yea but it was just a thought. It's probably the least likely thing.

 

I would try increasing the warm up enrichment in the water temp table.

 

Same, run perfect with the stocker, also the PFC seem to change the voltage to the "IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE" at solenoid valve connector, is there some was to tune out the variants. Or is the PFC finding the solenoid that's on it's way out and the stocker does some sort of compensation.

 

I'm going to have to look up how to do that and mess around with it after midterms. Thanks for the tip arghx!

I'll let you know what happens rxeckless

 

went ahead and tried to mess around with the water temp table using the commander as well as f/c settings. Still having the same issues. I think its mostly that I'm not 100% what it is I am doing. i read arghx's brief guide to tuning the basemap but still really foggy on everything. I was thinking maybe its a bad o2 sensor? Either way i think i'm going to stick with the OEM ecu for now since I'm not driving that much til I can take it to a shop to have it tuned.

 

Kiku, have not tried this, but it may help. I'll let you know.

How To Check The TPS with your PFC.pdf

 

Yeah i had adjusted mine after dropping the motor back in. My PFC says all the values are in range. Maybe i'll play around with it some more. It's weird to me that it idles perfectly with the OEM which makes me feel it isn't a TPS issue. I have a CEL with the OEM ecu so I might try figuring out whats tripping it and that might lead me in the right direction. I'll let you know how things go on my end.

 

I have no CEL, but I'm getting another Idle air controller "IAC" from a local member, as that's what my buzzing is after it stall's. Pretty close to just leaving the stock ecu in till next spring.

 

That's the same thing that is buzzing for me, but it only buzzes with the pfc installed. Took it out for a drive and have some occasional idle shudder, stalled a few times, and a little bit of hesitation. Let me know if by changing the IAC anything improves.