Hello all


I have the exact same problem as this thread

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...1050033/page2/

Long story short. Brand new exedy twin disk. Can barely get into first and reverse. I jacked up the rear and watched the wheels spin in every gear with the clitch to the floor.


So I bled and bled the system, to no avail.

My main question right now is, with the slave off.... If I use something to push on the lever where the Slave would normally push, and the clutch still does not disengage, that proves the hydraulic system is working and not the problem right?

My dad and I just did this with a socket wrench extension, and a scissor jack for leverage. I watched the throwout bearing move out as far as it could. We started the car and the wheels still spin in any gear.

This proves I need to drop the transnission and inspect all the clutch parts/install right?

 

Did you try adjusting out the clutch rod? Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging completely.

 

^ yes. Made it as long as it would allow.

And by doing the test with the socket wrench extension and scissor lift, I moved the clutch fork as far as it would physically go.

Clutch still engaged.

 

Time to drop the trans and see if you installed a disk upside down.

 

^ that's what I figured. I was just making sure I understood correctly that, if I pushed the clutch fork as far as it would physically go, in the same fashion that the slave would, and the clutch was STILL engaged, that rules out all the hydraulic components.

 

Short update.

Got the trans out. First thing i notice is there's no spring on the clutch fork??

Is that normal?? My new one I ordered from Malloy has a spring

 

That's not helping things. Also, with a heavier pressure plate, you will need a braided steel clutch line. Corksport and Banzai Racing carry them for a reasonable price.

With a heavier pressure plate, the stock rubber clutch hose will swell and your engagement point will be VERY low, if not undriveably low. Braided line fixes that problem. Also, if you have old clutch hydraulics, might want to get new ones as the added line pressure can put a lot of stress on ancient clutch hydraulics.

Dale

 

Got new master and slave, working on them now actually

Would the fork not having a spring cause my problem by itself?

 

I don't think the spring would cause your problem, but it could keep the clutch from totally disengaging, basically acting like you have your foot a little bit on the clutch pedal when driving around. If you have a nice high-dollar clutch like that, you don't want to wear it into a nub because you're missing a return spring. Get that fixed.

Also, do you have a braided clutch line? If not, get one.

Dale

 

Well the clutch not completely disengaging is exactly my problem. Did you mean not fully engaging?

I'm ordering a braided clutch line

When the trans goes back in, it will have new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch fork, braided line, and master, slaves. If that doesn't fix it, I don't know what will

 

I would take the stack out and verify that you did not install a disc upside down. The sides are labeled.

 

I just did. The plates say T/M side toward the transmission

 

Twin disc A: T/M SIDE
Twin disc B: F/W SIDE

http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...rd%20Multi.pdf

 

Well I got the pilot bearing out, and much to my suprise, it was very easy!


I can't say enough about this puller and autozone for loaning it completely free.

 

Well, I got the clutch checked out and reassembled, but I'm having a horrible time getting the transmission back in the car

My buddy and I were under it over an hour lastnight fighting/wrestling with it. At first we could barely get the spindle in far enough to support the front weight, but we were way too far off for any bolts to reach.

After fighting it forever, we took it down and I looked in the clutch and noticed the pilot bearing grease seal looked smashed. So I decided I'd take it out and see if that helped anything. So I got it out and we tried again, this time the housing is close enough to start the bolts on the left but not the right I very slowly and gently tightened the one that would reach, down quite a bit but it didnt help the big gap on the right side.

Is it normally this hard? Has anyone ever purchased longer bolts to help start it??

 

Read my clutch job notes, if the clutch disc isn't PERFECTLY centered you'll have a bitch of a time. Cut the end of the clutch alignment tool down, most of them are too damn long.

Dale

 

Well the alignment tool slides in and out perfectly fine, and it was able to turn both discs freely before I tightened everything down

 

It lives! Borrowed an engine hoist to lift the front a little, and used some longer bolts to suck it up to the engine.

Drives so much better. And I still gotta put the braided clutch hose and bleed the system more. Could get even a little better .