3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

Help with clutch drag

Old 02-23-14, 02:35 PM
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Help with clutch drag

Hello all


I have the exact same problem as this thread

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...1050033/page2/

Long story short. Brand new exedy twin disk. Can barely get into first and reverse. I jacked up the rear and watched the wheels spin in every gear with the clitch to the floor.


So I bled and bled the system, to no avail.

My main question right now is, with the slave off.... If I use something to push on the lever where the Slave would normally push, and the clutch still does not disengage, that proves the hydraulic system is working and not the problem right?

My dad and I just did this with a socket wrench extension, and a scissor jack for leverage. I watched the throwout bearing move out as far as it could. We started the car and the wheels still spin in any gear.

This proves I need to drop the transnission and inspect all the clutch parts/install right?
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Old 02-23-14, 05:18 PM
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Did you try adjusting out the clutch rod? Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging completely.
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Old 02-24-14, 06:57 AM
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^ yes. Made it as long as it would allow.

And by doing the test with the socket wrench extension and scissor lift, I moved the clutch fork as far as it would physically go.

Clutch still engaged.
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Old 02-24-14, 07:00 AM
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Time to drop the trans and see if you installed a disk upside down.
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Old 02-24-14, 09:37 AM
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^ that's what I figured. I was just making sure I understood correctly that, if I pushed the clutch fork as far as it would physically go, in the same fashion that the slave would, and the clutch was STILL engaged, that rules out all the hydraulic components.
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Old 03-06-14, 07:46 PM
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Short update.

Got the trans out. First thing i notice is there's no spring on the clutch fork??

Is that normal?? My new one I ordered from Malloy has a spring
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Old 03-06-14, 08:42 PM
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That's not helping things. Also, with a heavier pressure plate, you will need a braided steel clutch line. Corksport and Banzai Racing carry them for a reasonable price.

With a heavier pressure plate, the stock rubber clutch hose will swell and your engagement point will be VERY low, if not undriveably low. Braided line fixes that problem. Also, if you have old clutch hydraulics, might want to get new ones as the added line pressure can put a lot of stress on ancient clutch hydraulics.

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Old 03-06-14, 08:53 PM
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Got new master and slave, working on them now actually

Would the fork not having a spring cause my problem by itself?
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Old 03-07-14, 10:51 AM
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I don't think the spring would cause your problem, but it could keep the clutch from totally disengaging, basically acting like you have your foot a little bit on the clutch pedal when driving around. If you have a nice high-dollar clutch like that, you don't want to wear it into a nub because you're missing a return spring. Get that fixed.

Also, do you have a braided clutch line? If not, get one.

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Old 03-07-14, 02:17 PM
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Well the clutch not completely disengaging is exactly my problem. Did you mean not fully engaging?

I'm ordering a braided clutch line

When the trans goes back in, it will have new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch fork, braided line, and master, slaves. If that doesn't fix it, I don't know what will
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Old 03-07-14, 03:32 PM
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I would take the stack out and verify that you did not install a disc upside down. The sides are labeled.
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Old 03-07-14, 07:41 PM
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I just did. The plates say T/M side toward the transmission
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Old 03-08-14, 06:21 AM
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Twin disc A: T/M SIDE
Twin disc B: F/W SIDE

http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...rd%20Multi.pdf
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Old 03-08-14, 05:58 PM
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Well I got the pilot bearing out, and much to my suprise, it was very easy!


I can't say enough about this puller and autozone for loaning it completely free.




Help with clutch drag-image-1201381173.jpg
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Old 03-12-14, 10:34 AM
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Well, I got the clutch checked out and reassembled, but I'm having a horrible time getting the transmission back in the car

My buddy and I were under it over an hour lastnight fighting/wrestling with it. At first we could barely get the spindle in far enough to support the front weight, but we were way too far off for any bolts to reach.

After fighting it forever, we took it down and I looked in the clutch and noticed the pilot bearing grease seal looked smashed. So I decided I'd take it out and see if that helped anything. So I got it out and we tried again, this time the housing is close enough to start the bolts on the left but not the right I very slowly and gently tightened the one that would reach, down quite a bit but it didnt help the big gap on the right side.

Is it normally this hard? Has anyone ever purchased longer bolts to help start it??
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Old 03-12-14, 11:27 AM
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Read my clutch job notes, if the clutch disc isn't PERFECTLY centered you'll have a bitch of a time. Cut the end of the clutch alignment tool down, most of them are too damn long.

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Old 03-12-14, 12:52 PM
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Well the alignment tool slides in and out perfectly fine, and it was able to turn both discs freely before I tightened everything down
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Old 03-15-14, 10:45 PM
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It lives! Borrowed an engine hoist to lift the front a little, and used some longer bolts to suck it up to the engine.

Drives so much better. And I still gotta put the braided clutch hose and bleed the system more. Could get even a little better .
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