Help With Causes of Burning Oil - New Build
Help With Causes of Burning Oil - New Build
Hi all, I'm looking for a little assistance/confirmation on the things that can cause a new build to burn oil.
1 - Blow by of oil on the turbo. I have a restrictor in place that allows me to adjust the oil pressure to the turbo so I can't imagine this is my problem.
2 - Improperly vented crank case. I have my crank case vented to a vented catch can. I connected the catch can to the oil filler neck and to the oil drain that is not used when converting to single turbo.
3 - Improperly installed oil control springs. I understand the spring can destroy the ring's seal if its install backwards as it will not catch the tab that holds it in place. I pulled my engine apart once already to check everything and mine was installed correctly so no issue here either.
4 - Side seals. This one has me worried. If a side seal gets stuck, i would imagine this can allow oil into the combustion chamber as well? I'm worried my seals were not moving freely enough as I allowed very little tolerance when grinding them down hoping to avoid any blow by in the corners. Is this a red flag?
5 - What else?
FYI, it is a new build, but its run for 45 mins to an hour by now so I can't imagine its still burning off the assembly lube and vaseline. I got the temp up today to 180 degrees today and it just would not stop with the blue smoke.
One other thing I've tried is unplugging the OMP. I'm running half an ounce of Idemitsu premix per gallon right now. Could the OMP be letting oil in even while unplugged?
I'm hoping someone can give me a silver bullet. I'm torn on pulling the engine.. again.. versus taking it to Rotorsports racing here in NC and letting them help me out. I just really really really want to do it fully by myself.
1 - Blow by of oil on the turbo. I have a restrictor in place that allows me to adjust the oil pressure to the turbo so I can't imagine this is my problem.
2 - Improperly vented crank case. I have my crank case vented to a vented catch can. I connected the catch can to the oil filler neck and to the oil drain that is not used when converting to single turbo.
3 - Improperly installed oil control springs. I understand the spring can destroy the ring's seal if its install backwards as it will not catch the tab that holds it in place. I pulled my engine apart once already to check everything and mine was installed correctly so no issue here either.
4 - Side seals. This one has me worried. If a side seal gets stuck, i would imagine this can allow oil into the combustion chamber as well? I'm worried my seals were not moving freely enough as I allowed very little tolerance when grinding them down hoping to avoid any blow by in the corners. Is this a red flag?
5 - What else?
FYI, it is a new build, but its run for 45 mins to an hour by now so I can't imagine its still burning off the assembly lube and vaseline. I got the temp up today to 180 degrees today and it just would not stop with the blue smoke.
One other thing I've tried is unplugging the OMP. I'm running half an ounce of Idemitsu premix per gallon right now. Could the OMP be letting oil in even while unplugged?
I'm hoping someone can give me a silver bullet. I'm torn on pulling the engine.. again.. versus taking it to Rotorsports racing here in NC and letting them help me out. I just really really really want to do it fully by myself.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
What did you clearance the side seal the corner seal gap to?
Re: oil control rings, how much wear did they have on them? Assuming you re-used them, or did you buy new ones?
Were the oil springs new, or re-used?
Also, were the OEM intake ports touched i.e. ported?
Re: oil control rings, how much wear did they have on them? Assuming you re-used them, or did you buy new ones?
Were the oil springs new, or re-used?
Also, were the OEM intake ports touched i.e. ported?
I clearanced the corner gap so that the side seal would slide freely, but I didn't measure them to a specific gap.
The oil control rings and springs are new. Intake ports are OEM.. I didn't do any porting.
The oil control rings and springs are new. Intake ports are OEM.. I didn't do any porting.
Pull the turbo and run the motor open exhaust. See if if still smokes. What I do in the shop is bolt on a modified non-turbo header so I can drive the car around. If there is a lot of oil residue in the exhaust it may take a while to clear out. Make sure you loop the coolant lines and run the oil feed back into the oil cap.
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