maarviin

iTrader: (1)

Here's the FSM
http://www.wrex-racing.com/web/fd/se...ice_Manual.zip

I wish I could be of more help..

TailHappy

Funny the timing on this. I just ran into the exact same thing last Thursday and have been troubleshooting ever since. Was able to push-start it to get it home. My symptoms are the same: key on, accessories come on, turn to start, radio goes off but starter does nothing. No clicking or anything. Verified battery is good, verified that power is to the starter. Applying power to signal post on the starter makes the starter jump to life. About 0.5V to starter signal wire when key is on, so the wire is probably contiguous, but no change when starter switch is moved to Start. Also verified with the PFC commander that the clutch and neutral switches are fine.

In looking at the Starting System portion of the Engine Electrical System FSM, there's no mention of any relays or fuses in the system. Just the ignition switch, clutch switch (inhibitor switch), and starter. However, this thread https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...alarm+ignition indicates a relay is involved, as well as possibly the alarm. Sounds like the ignition switch can be quirky too.

My next step is to check the A2-03 relay and if it's not that maybe try jiggling the key to see if that has any effect....

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

The security relay is in the driver side kickpanel i posted a pic in another thread. The clutch switch is up above the clutch pedal inside the car. There are actually 2. Sometimes the clutch switch spring just falls apart. Sometimes the clutch switch wears through the aluminum pedal and doesn't activate the switch. The security relay is also a common problem and can easily be by passed. These are the 2 most common problems and i would look at them first. The ignition switch itself can be flakey but doesn't usually fail. The very first thing to do is crawl on the car locate the starter. Pull the little plug going to the starter solenoid and but direct battery current on it. If you really want you can run a switch or button into the car that goes from battery to new switch back to the starter solenoid. Then you can at least start it until you find the issue.

TailHappy

I can't seem to find that pic! I just looked through all your other threads that contained the word "relay."

Thanks for the tips though. I'm about betting that it's that relay and/or my alarm. Does anyone know if the ignition switch is bad, whether it would still continue to kill power to your radio when you turn the switch, but not send the right signal to the starter? I know it's not the clutch switch in my case thanks to the PFC. I had contemplated jerryrigging something to the signal post as a temporary fix but knowing myself, I need to fix it right to start with or I'll never get back around to doing it again.....

pham1187

i had a similar problem and it can be due to accumulated voltage drops on the starter circuit. if the starter is good and all the other wiring is good then look up the pettit starter booster on the pettit site and look at the picture and you can figure out how to wire up a relay to solve the problem. let me know how it works out for you.

Michael

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I'll post the pic when i get home. The clutch has two switches on it. One for the starter system and one to tell the ecu how to compinsate for load adjustments when the clutch is in or out. I don't think the one on the pfc is for the starter system. I really doubt its your ignition switch. The starter booster probably won't help unless you're having intermittant starting issues. Sounds like something is just wrong and its not getting any power to the starter solenoid. If you have a mulimeter you can test along the circuit to see where the power trail ends

TailHappy

Thanks for the replies. Hope I didn't hijack this from the OP but it sounded like these were things he was going to check too.

Thanks for the booster tip, pham. I saw that on another thread and bookmarked it for later. Hopefully I can just find the root cause if isn't a voltage issue.

I'd appreciate the picture if you get the chance, Dudemaaan. And I didn't realize the clutch had two switches. I had replaced the one before that shows up on the PFC, that's located just a little above the pedal. Where, is the other one physically located in relation? Hopefully it's obvious. I did have some unidentified plastic in the floorboard one day so I wonder if that might be what it was from. I can't remember anymore, but will the car normally start without the clutch depressed if it's in Neutral? I was thinking it would, but the schematics seem to indicate otherwise, and mine won't start in Neutral either. I sure hope it's not the ignition switch as that definitely sounds like the least fun option... I was trying to trace the voltages but once I verified the starter signal post wasn't getting voltage, I wasn't sure where else to check up the line other than the ignition switch. Now that I'm armed with the wiring diagram and a little more info, I intend on checking the relay next, and I'll try to find the 2nd clutch switch too.

Thanks again! I'm enthusiastic that I at least have a few more options before having to resort to tearing apart the steering column!

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

The ignition switch isn't hard to replace. But that's probably not your problem. The ignition lock on the other hand is more involved and requires some tricks. But you don't need to worry about that either. I can't remember where the other clutch switch is in relation to the other. Nor which is which. But they aren't far from eachother so you should manage to find it easily. I think our cars always require the clutch pressed in order to start. Even in neutral.

96fd3s

out of curiosity, is it only US model rx7's that require the cluth to be depressed to start it?
iv got a 96 JDM FD and i have never depressed my cluth to start, my car always starts first turn too..

TailHappy

Dudemaaan you are the MAN! I would have never looked for that 2nd clutch switch since I had it in my mind that the one that shows up on the PFC sensor page is the only clutch switch.

Turned out the broken plastic in the floorboard was the clue. Leave it up to Mazda in their infinite wisdom to cut a hole in the metal so that the clutch switch will pass through unless there's a piece of plastic there to interfere. I think we all know how well the plastic has held up in our cars over the years........

Here's some pictures of before, the broken pieces that are the clue to this problem, and my permanent fix. Does anyone see any problem with just using a bolt instead of paying for a replacement plastic piece that will probably only fail in the same way at some inopportune time?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I used a bolt to fix mine. Has worked quite well so far.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

and as promised the pic of the security relay. the relay is on the floor and the blue clip is what it plugs into. The wiring shows how to bypass it. Just 2 male tabs on a short piece of wire that plugs in where the 2 larger blue wires are.

maarviin

iTrader: (1)

props to you Dudemaaanownsanrx7, good work.

JesusGLS

iTrader: (5)

X10000!!!!!!!!!!
I really appreciate all your help.. Lucky me that was my problem and the reason why my car didnt even crank... Car has been stopped for like 5 yeaers now and finally started again. Things wrong with the car was that and the fuel pump wich doesnt work..!! THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

you're welcome, im glad i could help. Fortunately for ya'll, and unfortunately for me i think everything that could go wrong with an FD has gone wrong with mine. But thats alright cause now i know my way around the car and fixing things is a pretty smooth process.

TailHappy

Thanks for the pic Dudemaaan. Another item for my todo list........

Glad you got yours working too, JesusGLS!

userjh5174

Check your starter. if you do not hear a clicking sound or anything from your starter, then that could be an issue. Also, check fuel pump.

Dion

maarviin

iTrader: (1)

You think this can happen to a JDM RX-7 or is this an issue with the USDM's?