Turn Key Does Not Always Start
#1
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Turn Key Does Not Always Start
I have a '93 RX-7 and when I turn the key it will not always start. It does not even try. It acts like it has no power (no clicking noise no power to accessories). It does this intermitantly. If I try starting 3-5 times it will usually start on the 3rd through 5th time. I have had the starter replaced twice. The alternator has been checked out and the battery has been replaced. This only happens about 1 in 5 times of trying to start it. It does this in cold, normal, and hot weather. It is kept in a dry garage. This has been going on since I bought it 3 years ago.
Any ideas on this would e greatly appreciated.
Any ideas on this would e greatly appreciated.
#2
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Mine does the same, but i believed it was because of my alarm. The alarm system on mine disables the ignition something like 1 minute (or some time) after the last lock/unlock. So when I turn it off, leave it unlocked, and then come back later, it won't start.
I have noticed that a couple times it also won't start when i do lock/unlock prior to turning the key. Now you have me wondering if I might have the same issue as you.
I have noticed that a couple times it also won't start when i do lock/unlock prior to turning the key. Now you have me wondering if I might have the same issue as you.
#3
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Thank you for the reply
My RX did not come with an alarm and I have not installed one. It does have power door locks but no keyless entry remote. I have taken it to my mechanic (used the same shop for 17 years) and he cannot figure out what is wrong. He is by no means an RX-7 expert but I trust him (hard to find a good mechanic). I'm thinking it has something to do with the electrical system but I do not want to have to replace the entire wiring harness just to find out it was not that.
#4
Rotary Freak
On my FC, when this was happening it was the little switch that makes sure your clutch is depressed before letting you start the car that had gone bad, sounds almost identical to your case.
#6
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i just got this fixed on my car. its some type of relay. i can ask the shop where its located if you guys need me to. since i got 3/4 weeks ago never had an issue starting again
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#9
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Hi apex_sideway,
I moved back to IL because of my job. I just have not updated my profile. I miss Vegas. The RX-7 does not miss the heat. I had temperature problems with it in the summers in Vegas.
I moved back to IL because of my job. I just have not updated my profile. I miss Vegas. The RX-7 does not miss the heat. I had temperature problems with it in the summers in Vegas.
#11
No it's not Turbo'd
The FD has issues as mine does, with the ignition key switch, it has a little magnetic / mechanical switch in the tumbler, to make sure you have the key fully inserted, and not a screwdriver shoved in etc... supposedly with a new tumbler you can avoid this for another 13-16 years, or maybe more if they re-engineered it.... I'd see maybe how much the tumblers are from malloy, they problem / key (pun) is how to re-key it to fit all the other locks...
A Temporary fix for me is to wiggle the key around before / during twisting it, to make it turn over...
A Temporary fix for me is to wiggle the key around before / during twisting it, to make it turn over...
#14
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The relay is called the starter cut relay, located in the left foot panel. It is relay A2-03 (blue) on page 29 of the 94 wiring diagram manual (down loadable from this forum). I plan on troubleshooting mine as soon as I have a good weather weekend. I also have an automatic.
Terry7
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Last edited by sevensheaven; 09-05-06 at 12:38 PM. Reason: Add info
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All those suggestions sound like solid possibilities. You may also check the actual battery cables. I had the same problem. Turned out the cables looked fine and like the y were connected, however the wires were loose from the connector and were not alsay in contact with the end to the battery. I simply but plyers on the ends and hammered the connection closed. No problems after that. Good luck.
#17
I had the exact problem. What it was for me was the battery cables. I replaced the positive with one from the local parts store, and now I don't have any problem at all. You may want to check it out.
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I stumbled across something this week with the alarm. It uses the start cut relay to disable the starter when the alarm is tripped. I plan on checking it this weekend and I may by pass it to see if it helps. I don't believe in Jerry rigging things so I will end up fixing or replacing what ever it ends up being. That could mean doing the Honda start switch mod, because it looks cool mounted in the cigarette lighter spot.
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i had this same problem and i kept getting the same suggestions .. so i decided to bust out the car wiring diagram and found it to be my ignition switch.. just the electrical portion.
mine had gotton so bad i had to hotwire the car for a week until the part arrived.
i installed the part and i barely turned the key over and the car started right up.
mine had gotton so bad i had to hotwire the car for a week until the part arrived.
i installed the part and i barely turned the key over and the car started right up.
#20
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The ignition circuit can only be a few things. First you need to check that the starter is getting a signal from the ignition switch. Put a voltmeter on Terminal S and measure the volts when you try to crank the car. If it's ~12v, then you need to check the starter b/c it ain't any of the other eletrical problems before the starter. If it's not 12v it's either the neutral safety switch (the inhibitor switch), the ignition switch itself, or the battery.
Chasing eletrical problems is a royal PITA. If you got the money, a shop can do it. It'll cost a bit due to the labor hours of tracking this down. If you don't, get a voltmeter (20bucks at Radio Shack) and set aside 1 saturday to pinpoint the problem and another saturday to fix it.
Just had a similar problem with my automatic RX. Mine was the starter but many others seem to have a neutral safety problem. I was getting click, click, click no start.
Here's the steps you need to do:
1. Buy a voltmeter
2. Test the Battery (I know it sounds stupid but it's the starting point of the electrical signal. If it ain't working here, it ain't gonna work) If no 12v, then you've got a bad battery.
3. Jack the car up and test terminal B on the starter. It should be the one that is furthest from the engine block. This is where your battery connects to the starter. Check for 12v here. If no, then you've got a bad connection/ground somewhere between here and the battery.
4. Unplug the terminal S on the starter. It's the little clip wire that is about 100X smaller than the rest of the cables there and should be just above the battery terminal B on the starter. IF its an aftermarket starter the wire could be below. Stick the + of the voltmer in there and ground the - to something on the engine block. Try to start the car. Watch the voltmer for 12v. If no, the problem is the ignition switch or the neutral safety. IF yes, it's 100% the starter. Probably a bad magnetic switch solenoid (the thing that all the terminals plug into). Buy a new starter or get that one refurbished. I know you've had it replaced before but there have been weirder things happen than a new starter going bad.
5. From here you're on your own. I tried to check the neutral safety switch but that pos is somewhere that I can't get to. I didn't see it on the driver or pass side of my tranny. I think it's on the driver's side up high ... where I can't get to it. There have been people with some luck of splcing the wires here to bypass the neutral safety. Run a search on here for more info.
Edit: added this
Unplug the alarm (stock alarm right) and see if it fixes it. Here's how:
Remove the drivers side kick panel.
Unplug the white 20 pin connector.
Unplug the white 8 pin connector that is directly above the 20 pin connector.
Reinstall the kick panel.
Chasing eletrical problems is a royal PITA. If you got the money, a shop can do it. It'll cost a bit due to the labor hours of tracking this down. If you don't, get a voltmeter (20bucks at Radio Shack) and set aside 1 saturday to pinpoint the problem and another saturday to fix it.
Just had a similar problem with my automatic RX. Mine was the starter but many others seem to have a neutral safety problem. I was getting click, click, click no start.
Here's the steps you need to do:
1. Buy a voltmeter
2. Test the Battery (I know it sounds stupid but it's the starting point of the electrical signal. If it ain't working here, it ain't gonna work) If no 12v, then you've got a bad battery.
3. Jack the car up and test terminal B on the starter. It should be the one that is furthest from the engine block. This is where your battery connects to the starter. Check for 12v here. If no, then you've got a bad connection/ground somewhere between here and the battery.
4. Unplug the terminal S on the starter. It's the little clip wire that is about 100X smaller than the rest of the cables there and should be just above the battery terminal B on the starter. IF its an aftermarket starter the wire could be below. Stick the + of the voltmer in there and ground the - to something on the engine block. Try to start the car. Watch the voltmer for 12v. If no, the problem is the ignition switch or the neutral safety. IF yes, it's 100% the starter. Probably a bad magnetic switch solenoid (the thing that all the terminals plug into). Buy a new starter or get that one refurbished. I know you've had it replaced before but there have been weirder things happen than a new starter going bad.
5. From here you're on your own. I tried to check the neutral safety switch but that pos is somewhere that I can't get to. I didn't see it on the driver or pass side of my tranny. I think it's on the driver's side up high ... where I can't get to it. There have been people with some luck of splcing the wires here to bypass the neutral safety. Run a search on here for more info.
Edit: added this
Unplug the alarm (stock alarm right) and see if it fixes it. Here's how:
Remove the drivers side kick panel.
Unplug the white 20 pin connector.
Unplug the white 8 pin connector that is directly above the 20 pin connector.
Reinstall the kick panel.
Last edited by grimple1; 09-07-06 at 02:00 PM.
#22
The Purple People Eater
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Yeah i have a auto also and have the same damn problem. But i dont drive the car much so i dont worry about it. It starts sometimes but if not it always starts on the 3 try of the key. What the hell is it? A relay? Hmmmmm
#23
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Third turn is a charm every time. There have been a couple of instances where I would've liked the immediate turnover, but then I just have to remember "two more, damnit!"
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Oh the memories... Read sig
#24
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my car does the exact same thing as you too. Ive owned it almost 4 years and it has been like that ever since i first bought it. I dont think the problem has anything to do with the auto trans because mine is a 5 speed.
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my car ahs been doing this 4 for days. it started up fine last friday. i left it ay my shop. a guy there said he would pull it into the shop for me when he closed it down, and called me later that night saying he had to push it in because it wouldnt start. i then checked it out on monday. i connected a battery charger to it and set it on 12v 225A start mode. the lights were bights..cd player and everything else electrical worked fine. i turn the key and hear a click click of the starter solenoid switching..but the starter does not respond.
so..either a bad starter, or connection to starter...are those the only 2 plausible possiblities? if it was a neutral safety switch/bad tumbler/alarm system problem/ or clutch switch, the solenoid wouldnt be reacting..right?
so..either a bad starter, or connection to starter...are those the only 2 plausible possiblities? if it was a neutral safety switch/bad tumbler/alarm system problem/ or clutch switch, the solenoid wouldnt be reacting..right?