HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

I having issues with my FD. I just got it running, idles good, no smoke.
It will rev up if i depress the throttle slowly, but will die, pop and backfire (breaks up) as soon as i get on it.
When i try to drive it, its wants to die, but it is ok as soon as i let go of the gas. It is drivable if i feather the throttle, i can cruise at like 40 mph, but as soon as i give it throttle, it pops and breaks up. Then again as soon as i let off, its fine.

I notice when it falls on its face, the A/F guage goes lean, im not sure if it because its dumping way too much fuel or lack of it. Im going to hook the wideband this week.

This is what i tried:
new plugs - worked for a little while, then problem came back.
changed ECU - G-force, then to factory. Same problem.
changed ignition wires
adjusted tps
rerouted vacuum lines (single turbo)

When i adjusted my tps, the 2nd one down, my closed throttle was in spec but the full was at 5.1V, you think that could be it problem??? I could not get it under 5.00v
The bottom wire on the tps, is in spec range.

My engine is race ported, single turbo, GReddy FM, stock injectors, im only running 9lbs. Im only running the factory and/or G-force ECU, because i want to know its running ok, before i put the AEM in, and 1300cc injectors.

Please help, i have been tryin to fix this problem for 2 weeks (2 weekends only time i have) I'm running out of ideas...

Thanks

r0gu3

I had a similar problem with my CAS connectors being broken and not properly attached.

broken93

Check the obvious:

#1: map sensor
#2: plugs/plug wires
#3: major vac leak
#4: injector connectors on the right injectors (the one with the white stripe goes on the #1 (front) primary)

dpeak

Sounds like limp mode or coils to me. Is the ecu throwing any codes?

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

r0gues: CAS?? crank angle sensor? or u mean the 2 pick-ups on the e-shaft? (crank position sensor).

broken93: how do i check to see if map is good? can you send me a link, i'll search tho..
I replaced plugs/wires, checked vac leak, I checked the obvious stuff. but injectors im almost positive i had them right but ill double check.

dpeak: how does the ecu go into limp, how do i reset? you think both ecu went into limp? I do have another set of coils, i can try that.
Engine codes, yeah the light is on, but it always had been on for me. so im pretty sure im throwing codes, but not sure how to read them, i'll search, but if you feeling nice, link me :-)

Thanks again everyone, every little thing helps

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

yah i'd check the CAS...

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

i found out how to read codes, gonna do it this week.

Another thing i was reading is bout "resistors", are you guys running resistor on the colored plugs(blue,orange,gray,green,ect) under the intake??? to erase the codes?? like jumping them?

dpeak

My car did the EXACT same thing and it turned out to be the wires and coils. Anyway, to reset your ecu, disconnect your negative battery terminal and hit the brakes. Reconnect and if the trip meter reads 000, it was reset. Then, drive your car and if it starts acting up again, check the codes and post us up. Takes all of 10 minutes to do.
Here is a post with some coil info:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/testing-ignition-coils-spark-plug-wire-corroded-408014/

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

well my car was in "limp" mode. i resetted and ran fine, but will have to erase codes everytime now, to drive fine.

Here are the codes i pulled(alot of them!):

05- knock sensor <---- i think this is my problem
25- soleniod - pressure regulator control <--- is this for fuel reg?
28 - solenoid - EGR (not in use)
31- solenoid - relief 1
32- soleniod - switching
40- solenoid - purge control
42- solenoid - turbo pre control
43- solenoid - wastegate
45- solenoid - charge control
46- solenoid - charge relief
50- solenoid - double throttle

I think the knock sensor is what making it go into limp, will any other codes make it do that? I am running single so the codes 40,42,43,45,46 shoudnt matter. and im not running double throttle.

thanks

BTW - would 2nd gen knock sensor work? i dunno if i have a spare 3rd gen one, have to look

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

A PFC or Haltech will take care of those codes.

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

Already got AEM, just want to fix all bugs first.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, that's the problem. Aftermarket ECU's aren't going to care if your unused solenoids aren't connected while the stock (or reprogrammed stock) ECU's will throw codes and put the car into limp mode for a lot of them.

As far as the codes, unless the AEM does any retarding with the Knock Sensor, it won't be productive to put resistors in all the other connections just to please the stock ECU (since you won't be using it anyway).

broken93

Did AEM ever get the MOP control to work right?

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Buy some resistors and throw them in and the car will be fine on the ecus you are running. This should work unless you cut the harness. Which I hope you didnt.

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

No, i havent cut it, aint that stupid :-)

What kind of resistors should i get?

I just want to break in the engine before i go with the aem, cuz i know i wont get the aem running right, right away.

thanks

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

plugged my solenoids back and put differet knock sensor...ALL GOOD NOW!!!!!

thanks for everyone help!!

Ill take all the solenoids when i install the AEM

Rotor on.....

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

plugged my solenoids back and put differet knock sensor...ALL GOOD NOW!!!!!

thanks for everyone help!!

Ill take all the solenoids out when i install the AEM

Rotor on.....

bdennis

330 ohm half watt resistors will do the trick. You can get them at any electronic store.