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#1
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help
i posted a question earlier but for sum reason i cant leave another post.i have a 3rd gen rx7 with full xhaust no cats 3" all the way but besides dat i have a bov other than those mods its completely stock..the problem is when im sort of gettin on it it makes this stuttering sound like its really noticeable..im not sure wut it is but im guessing it has sumthing to do with the feul? i was told i might be overboosting and hitting feul cut...can any1 help?
#2
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if you have a full exaust and no cats at all then you playing with fire mate,,, you will be getting massive boost spikes and triggering the fuel cut off,,, basically the ECU is trying to help you stop destroying your engine... but even the ECU will fail to save you soon mate,,,,, u need to either replace the cats or buy a boost controller and an aftermarket ECU such as a power FC (apexi) ,,, stay off the boost mate right now,,,or you gonna be dishing out a lot of cash for a new engine
#5
If you read the FAQs stickied at the top of this section (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/) you'll read about the 3 mod rule, and how that will cause you to run lean, and eventually detonate, losing your motor. As tiger18 said, you need to either a) replace the midpipe/testpipe/racepipe (whatever you're familiar w calling it) with a cat(alytic converter), or b) get a boost controller and limit the boost to 10 psi (stock). Anything above that, and you'd be pushing it, seeing that you don't even have an upgraded IC. You won't be able to run more boost until you're able to tune adequately for it, which means you'll need to get an aftermarket ECU. An Apexi Power FC is the most popular choice nowadays, especially since so many rotary specialists know how to tune it.
If you need any of these parts, feel free to PM me, and I'll help you out on price.
As for questions, I strongly suggest you read EVERYTHING in that FAQ (that I linked you to above). It WILL answer every question you have, and prevent you from making a $7000 mistake, which is what you're about to do (lose an apex seal, have it travel through the turbos, and you're out a motor & turbos, + lots of labor).
~Ramy
If you need any of these parts, feel free to PM me, and I'll help you out on price.
As for questions, I strongly suggest you read EVERYTHING in that FAQ (that I linked you to above). It WILL answer every question you have, and prevent you from making a $7000 mistake, which is what you're about to do (lose an apex seal, have it travel through the turbos, and you're out a motor & turbos, + lots of labor).
~Ramy
#6
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You can't post in the other thread because I answered your question and then closed it.
Like Ramy said, you're running a full exhaust on a stock ECU. As well, you haven't ported your wastegate, and now you're overboosting on an ECU and fuel system that can't handle it and it cuts fuel. You can blow your engine if the fuel cut fails.
Again, read the FAQ and run a search on boost creep, midpipe (or "full exhaust"), etc. You need to add some restriction to the exhaust (restrictor plate or a normal catalytic converter) or port your wastgate and control your boost.
Dave
Like Ramy said, you're running a full exhaust on a stock ECU. As well, you haven't ported your wastegate, and now you're overboosting on an ECU and fuel system that can't handle it and it cuts fuel. You can blow your engine if the fuel cut fails.
Again, read the FAQ and run a search on boost creep, midpipe (or "full exhaust"), etc. You need to add some restriction to the exhaust (restrictor plate or a normal catalytic converter) or port your wastgate and control your boost.
Dave
#7
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
As tiger18 said, you need to either a) replace the midpipe/testpipe/racepipe (whatever you're familiar w calling it) with a cat(alytic converter), or b) get a boost controller and limit the boost to 10 psi (stock). ~Ramy
Even if he gets a BC, couldn't he still run lean with the midpipe due to boost creep? And this is a question, not a challenge, I just didn't think the BC could do anything about creep and maybe he should do both as degeesaman suggests.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 11-29-05 at 11:20 AM.
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#8
Racecar - Formula 2000
In addition to what everyone has said, YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED A BOOST GAUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, you don't know where you are with respect to any of this.
Otherwise, you don't know where you are with respect to any of this.
#9
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
Ramy,
Even if he gets a BC, couldn't he still run lean with the midpipe due to boost creep? And this is a question, not a challenge, I just didn't think the BC could do anything about creep and maybe he should do both as degeesaman suggests.
Even if he gets a BC, couldn't he still run lean with the midpipe due to boost creep? And this is a question, not a challenge, I just didn't think the BC could do anything about creep and maybe he should do both as degeesaman suggests.
I thought I was badass cuz my boost gauge never showed creep. Well, I did a run a few nights ago when it was 34 degrees out and I was boosting 1.04 bar (15.08 psi) and I'm only tuned for 13psi, holding boost only w/ a Power FC! LOL. But then again, I don't care, cuz my motor is coming out asap anyway
So you're definitely right. Without a ported wastegate or a restrictor (just get a high flow cat lol), you still run the risk of ping --> motor = byebye.
Originally Posted by DaveW
In addition to what everyone has said, YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED A BOOST GAUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, you don't know where you are with respect to any of this.
Otherwise, you don't know where you are with respect to any of this.
~Ramy
#10
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I thought I was badass cuz my boost gauge never showed creep. Well, I did a run a few nights ago when it was 34 degrees out and I was boosting 1.04 bar (15.08 psi) and I'm only tuned for 13psi, holding boost only w/ a Power FC!
#11
Well, contrary to popular belief, the Defi boost gauge is not very accurate. It's high quality, looks great, but it's usually off by about 1 psi. And I don't think I've seen it go past 13psi. But I won't like...it may have shown 14psi. When I'm doing my night runs, I'm usually so paranoid about cops & deer that I often don't keep my eye on the boost gauge for long. Focusing on the road and what lies ahead.
The 1.04 bar was recorded using the PFC peak/hold function. But I dunno...when I've looked, I've never seen my Defi D-gauge read above 13 psi... (that's my disclaimer)
The 1.04 bar was recorded using the PFC peak/hold function. But I dunno...when I've looked, I've never seen my Defi D-gauge read above 13 psi... (that's my disclaimer)
#12
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**** well thank u guys very much for all this information im currently saving up for a greddy tt and a apexi fc..i will b sure not to drive my car untill then and the only tym it will b on is for a occasional warm up and just turn it off afterwards..thanks very much i would deffinatly have a blown engine if u guys didnt help me
#14
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Originally Posted by Rmagic13b
sry i meant bc instead of a tt
Then save up for the PFC, Boost gauge, and BC.
#15
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well i have the stock full xhaust just sittting in my garage but u think i should just put it back on there? cuz i just wanted to save up for the pfc, bc , and boost gauge....of course as many other fd owners i have other manners of transportation...not saying dat fd's r shitty its just that living in oregon it rains a **** load and being 16 i have to go to skool even though my car isnt in running condition
#16
Being 16 w/ an FD...you won't be able to afford the FD for very long Oh and PFC, you need to get it professionally tuned, and that's only after you figure out what's wrong w/ your car... I think you should really go get a cheap reliable daily driver REAL quick... cuz if you're choosing to rely on the FD, you're in BIG trouble
#17
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Originally Posted by Rmagic13b
well i have the stock full xhaust just sittting in my garage but u think i should just put it back on there?
Dave