I wanted to make this thread for members to share their blown Engine story's and why do you think it happened.

I will start.
Cause-Boosting with out a proper tune.. I also noticed my OMP was not working which could have been hurting my engine the whole time
Result-Front rotor 0 compression. .

 

Didn't just put a engine in the car? or New turbo setup? Damn sorry hear that u pop the engine.

 

I blew a coolant passage wall on my front iron. No significant warning. Minor white smoke on cold start, sweet smelling exhaust similar to a very minor head gasket leak on a piston motor.

Coolant passage blown on the 7'o clock position as you look at the motor.

Oh yeah this was a 1992 FD imported from Japan

 

FB:

Going up the long hill just before the straights at Ebisu West 3rd Gear, 6400 RPm 1.4 Bar of boost on a TO4E 60 trim w/self tuned PFC. blew rear rotor and Apex seals

Cause: Two Fat guys and a hill! engine had 3 seasons on it at Ebisu and with Chad in shotgun and taking notes we toasted it


FD : driving conservativly while working on stereo 2500 RPM in cruise HKS TO4Z kit with all supporting mods + HKS FCON SZ tuned by Okada. lost rear apex seals

Cause: Rear spark plug was missing part of porcelain all else was fine, can only surmise that the porcelain cracked and took out a seal.

Kenn

 

^^The important question is, what spark plugs were you running?

 

Me =? Not sure I'll grab some pics from the garage tomorrow. It's whatever was in the car when I bought it. I probably only put 400 miles on it.

 

To many engines to list, but noob is one of the reasons many years ago

now i have had no engine problems in almost 3 years

 

I destroyed a 13b-rew years ago at the track, the FPD spontaneously blew at the 1/8th, causing the front rotor to lose every apex seal due to fuel starvation. Ate the turbine on a GT35R at the same time. This is one of the reasons I came up FPD elimination how-to.

Also lost compression on a 13b-rew (down to 60 all faces) from running 1/2 oz/ga of premix, now I only run 1oz/ga and have never had the issue repeat itself.

 

Yeah man. GT35R exhaust wheel is probably trashed, that's gonna be another few hundred to get cartridge replace. It was totally my fault man, I keep pushing the car when I should have waited for a tune.

I have 0 compression on my front rotor so I am sure it looks horrible in there.

 

The only one I ever had blow on me in all these years was on a reman motor with about 25k miles on it. It blew on a cold start in the garage the day after I bought it and drove it back from NJ to TN. No reason I could ever find. At that point I had owned 20-30 fds and figured it was just my turn.

 

90K on original engine, apex seal shattered during normal highway driving. Fully stock car, no apparent reason for demise. Engine did have a bunch of carbon inside though.

 

When my engine went, I thought it would be the coolant seals, as I have blown my turbo coolant line while driving as well as my rad.

40k miles on rebuilt engine done by mazda, had stalling and idleing issues all summer (I think I pushed the car at least 20 times lol). I did a full vaccuum job as well as replaced the ecu with another stock one and that seemed to cure my problems.

One night, a bit chillier then normal, I went WOT. Right when the transmission was supposed to shift (automatic) the car just died. Tried deflooding it many times, and the engine just sounded like it was just spinning with no or little compression (had even coughs when I removed the spark plugs). I thought I burnt the starter trying to deflood it so I towed the car home.

After realizing it wasnt the starter after lots of troubleshooting, I found the engine was seized up.