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Hasty engine build question (oil pressure)

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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 12:24 PM
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Thumbs down Hasty engine build question (oil pressure)

I have just fitted the engine i built yesterday for an FD. The car started after a half mile tow and after it wamed up it runs fine (drove 30 miles) good idle, good afrs. Oil pressure was good.

Halfway home i noticed my oil pressure was low for the rpm. I gave it a rev and it moved slightly or not at all. Im wondering OMG what have i done wrong. I thinks its wierd the oil sensor couldnt have broken mid drive.

How do i tell if i have good oil pressure and my sensor is faulty? is there a quick easy way.

I have a track day on friday and tomorrow is the only day i have to get this sorted. and a sump leak (arghh)
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 12:26 PM
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Please dont tell me i havnt run my engine in (i know). The engine has been rebuilt especially for the track day. im breaking the car after Friday so it does not matter.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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if it really is an oil pressure problem, it could be front-cover related, especially the o-ring by the oil pump

Attached Thumbnails Hasty engine build question (oil pressure)-fd_front_cover.jpg  
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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Arghx

I was thinking about that being the most likey culprit. when i put the front cover on i reused that part and put some hylomar on first. Im tinking maybe it got displaced somehow when i put the cover on.

can this be sorted with engine in situ?

drain oil
sump bolts off
front pulley off
omp disconnect
disc connnect casensors
water pump off
check and put it all back together again?
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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oh of course front cover off too. argh what a pain
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 03:13 PM
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That's a tough call. Due to less accessibility and general hassle, if you try to do it with the engine in the vehicle in the end you may wish you had just pulled the motor.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 05:46 PM
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I don't think you're making your track day...... I'm sure it's not what you want to hear, but based on your last few threads consider having the engine professionally built by the nearest rotary specialty shop.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 07:41 PM
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Goodfella,

The car is getting broken after this trackday so its out of the question to get it rebuilt. What way would you change the main oil washer? Im thinking it has to be that or the oil pump bolts?

Argh,

whats the hardest part? Sump bolts?

constructive comments all welcome. this needs doing tomorrow.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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It may be the oil pump key as well. How did you remove the oil pump from the front iron during the rebuild (or did you at all)?

If you're really going to remove the front cover with the engine in the car, you'll need to watch out for the needle bearing falling behind the spacer and getting crushed when you tighten everything back down.

All things considered, I'd personally rather pull the engine and put it on a stand to fix the issue properly.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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OH Have to agree

No oil pressure, yikes. I like to start a fresh engine w/a quality guage. I would never trust the OEM sensor, personally. However, I would pull the engine. Work around the clock w/a good helper if possible.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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Getting the oil pan off and back on without it leaking like a sieve after is going to be a challenge with the engine in the car as well, if its front cover related after all.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 01:34 AM
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Double drat.

yeah this is a tough call. its 7 am, 2oc outside, ice everywhere. lots to do.

It will take me 2 hours to get the engine out. 2 hours to sort the front cover problem. and 4 hours to put it all back together and get it running at least.

I need a few helpers really. and i need to get motivated big time.

oil pump was definately on its keyway. i think i installed the oil pickup washer with the rubber part facing the wrong way (up, or to the front of the engine) ill let you know how im going at midday GMT
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 01:51 AM
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It's going to take a lot longer than that, you need to let the oil pan sealant cure for at least 24 hours.

Are you sure it's not just your sensor or something?

This is a good reminder to me never to rush a rebuild, just leads to more work really.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 02:45 AM
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just looked at the vid again. i installed the oil washer the right way.

the pump gear was on its keyway.

oil pickup was installed properly.

im starting to think that maybe something had got into the sump like leaf, bag etc and has and is blocking the oil pickup.im sure i did everything correctly.

its deffo an engine out job for the front cover. those sump bolts are above the subframe. nasty.

im going to start it up now and see if the old rex has fixed itself overnight (stranger things have happened)
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 03:11 AM
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Before pulling the motor I would first look at the oil pressure sending unit...very common for these to go bad. When I rebuilt my motor I cleaned mine out (I think with carb cleaner) before reinstalling and it works perfect again. Oh and don't forget to clean the connector too... hope it works.



.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 10:20 AM
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My sump oil leak was actually the feed to the oil coolers. I couldnt tell last night as it was dark. even though it was tight i was losing the oil from here. one of the washers was only very slightly damaged. i have replaced all washers and the bolt here and now the oil leak has gone and my oil pressure is much better. I must mention my instrument cluster is a recent addition (white dials)

The car runs fantastic. I think my sender and dials are faulty as the gauge was going all over the place on first startup this morning.

Trackday is on (touch wood)

the problem i have now is the new 1.30 hotside on my T04R is only 3mm from the wall of the engine bay. the spool on this is fantastic too. i was expecting it to be really laggy coming from a .81 hotside but its fine. it actually seems better one spooling starts. wierd.

Anyway im keeping to .85 bar on friday and ill log the whole session.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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Regarding the quick engine rebuild = very stressful. I wont be doing it again
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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Good to hear it wasn't a major problem. You need to be very careful from here on out though. You or a tuner has to take some datalogs and make sure the tune is ok.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Arghx

Will do mate. im running 12 degrees of advance in boost with 12 split, split increases after peak power and timing stays flat instead of advancing. As the parts i ordered from the usa didnt arrive (still) i built the engine with old used but in tolerance apex seals. only new parts are the outer gas/water seals. just need this track day under my belt as ive had it moved twice already.

BTW i have a good idea why i blew my last engine. Coil loom was knackered and had crossed exposed wires....................found this today when i installed my MSD 6T......................****. i have loads of the coil looms spare in my garage too.

wish me luck.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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Pics

Here is a photo of my engine bay before i did some tidying up today. This is what i have achieved since friday.

Also a photo of my FD at Anglesey in March (Fifth Gear track)

I have a good feeling about this engine
Attached Thumbnails Hasty engine build question (oil pressure)-1274537870422.jpg   Hasty engine build question (oil pressure)-img_4364.jpg  
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #21  
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Trackday was a complete success the car is absolutely flying.

Glad i spent 80 quid repairing my blown engine rather than 3000 quid to a local rip off tuner. been there done that never again.
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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Hi Mate,

I have nearly finished my Single Conversion (T04R) with 1680cc secondaries, Streetport. Done all the adjustments to the base map etc with the DL. How low did you start (PSI) with the initial tuning?

If the local tuner your on about is a Mr Dwayne and Col, I am not going back either !!
REgards
Paul
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