My right side mirror will not fully transit in all directions. So, I decided to start by disassembling and cleaning the mirror switch.

• I purchased some alcohol, tweezers, q-tips and dielectric grease.
• The switch disassembles into the circuit assembly and the switch manipulation pad which holds the contact springs.
• The grease inside the switch and the contacts are showing a lot of "dirt" where they have slid against each other over the years, but no damage. The worst on each contact are hardened spots of grease that come off with some rubbing with the q-tip. After cleaning the brass is a little stained, but looks like it will move more freely.
• I cleaned the circuit board with the q-tips and alcohol and did the same for the contact metal.

Here is where I have trouble. After disassembling everything, and starting to clean all the parts, out of the blue, I notice a tiny ball bearing (very clean) sitting on the middle of my workbench - absolutely no idea where it came from.

Has anyone rebuilt this switch? Any ideas where the bearing goes?

As I reassemble the switch, I will of course re-grease the circuit board and the contacts It would be great if someone could offer a clue as to the location for the ball bearing.

Thanks

 

After a closer look at all the parts, I believe I see where the ball bearing came from.

In the center of the directional switch, there is a left/right switch. It appears that the ball bearing rides on the end of that switch to keep it from jamming.

 

That sounds right, I remember taking one apart once and seeing that ball bearing.

FYI that switch is NLA which sucks. The tabs that hold it in frequently break.

Dale

 

DOES You sound like you are shocked that it is NLA... My experience with my 94 and especially the 88 is that I can't really get too many parts at all for it anymore.

BTW Dale, I have found that mazda DOES list new Tachs and Speedos. Do you have any experience with these - as in do they fix the no tack, no speedo, and no odo problem?

 

I would imagine they would, it's all new components. The cluster is always the failed component in the equation when you have a bad speedo or tach. Unless the flexible board on back is seriously damaged or something.

A new speedo would have a 0-mile odometer unless you swapped over the odometer chip from your old one FYI.

Dale

 

I'm the only one who will ever see the ODO (maybe my wife if I marry) so it doesn't matter to me what it says as long as it keeps count between servicings.

 

Swapping the odometer chip over isn't too bad if you can solder/desolder. It's nice to have the proper mileage on the car.

I've got a thread about the speedo that documents the process.

Dale

 

You can do a similar procedure on the window switch as well. Sometimes the failure is crud that has accumulated inside the switch. There is a thread on the forum for it. Should be in the FAQ too.

 

Yes, I've already cleaned the passenger switch. It is mechanical and easy. The driver master switch though seems to be a lost cause as it is "all" electronic and there were no contact switches to be found.

 

Sorry for the old bump, does the RHD F100-66-600A OEM part work on LHD vehicles as a mirror switch?

It seems my tab is broken as I don't feel a tactile resistance when I try to move around my side mirrors. My right one only goes up and my left one doesn't even register at all. Was considering buying brand new OEM's or trying for the RHD part I listed above.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/35358237184...3ABFBMgun55Z9f

 

I saw somewhere recently that RHD and LHD mirror switches are the same.

Also one of the US shops started making a new bracket type thing that can fix the clips in the back if they are broken which is very common.

Dale

 

I may just buy a brand new switch and be done with it if that's the case. Ty!

 

Code Red Performance makes the tabs/clips for the mirror switch.

 

Thank you!

 

BLUF: Asking if anyone has mapped the pins on the rear view mirror switch.
I recently removed my not-functional mirror switch, and sent it to a local electronics repair shop for testing. Before that, I tested the connector to see which pin supplies power, hooked a spare battery up with a light to function test the switch. Switched left, tested all positions, right, tested all positions. No dice on any of the pins in the switch.
Resurrecting this old thread to ask if anyone has ever mapped the switch pins since these are NLA.
If we knew which pin does what, maybe some alternatives could be found.

 

i took my mirror switch apart, but never saw the bearing, must have lost it, anyways was able to replace it with a 2 mm bearing

 

I don't have a problem with the ball, just the contacts or something.
I mapped the pins on the OE switch (harness side), and tried to get a ubiquitous replacement from a late '90s Ford F-150, but I couldn't get it working. I also could not find a definitive pin diagram on said mirror switch. I'll still be looking around, and I will eventually post something on it when I figure it out. Anyone that has a mirror position switch with known pin mapping would be really cool to share.