twan

iTrader: (2)

New pump and filter and pressure reg w/ gauge. Did the dampner and stock Fpr mod and a custom NOD setup which is really just a coulpe of LEDs connected to the injector connectors to flash when the injectors get pulse. All is fine with pump/ and filter because new gauge reads sufficient pressure. I got replacement off ebay just for ***** and giggles and they worked but I accidentally damaged the first adjustable FPR which caused the current prob. Most of my eggs are in the injector basket but any other advice or ideas are greately appreciated!!!

twan

iTrader: (2)

BTW:
Hey 1QWIK7 I love f*ckin love *** Too!!! GREAT AVATAR!!!!!!!!!!!!

twan

iTrader: (2)

Ok now I'm really confused. I know for a fact that the injectors are working. I've removed the UIM at least four times to check them. I'm not really sure about the spray pattern but I have a good spray that Im satisfied with! The fuel pressure is dead set at 40 psi. I've definitely got spark. Strong spark. But She still wont turn over on her own! When I take the Leading plugs out and crank the engine, I dont see, or smell fuel at the plug holes. I also rechecked the compression on my motor. When I first put the motor in, the compression seemed higher. Around 85 or 90 psi. But now, it seem lower. Around 75 or 80 psi. I kinda blame it on the motor being cold but i'm not sure. Either way my question is, should I smell fuel or seel vapors at the spark plug holes when I crank her with the plugs out??? She was running a few weeks ago. And I plan on injecting ATF into the UIM to try and increase the compression just in case but the fuel thing is causing me concern. Where the hell is it??

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

If you're engine has cranked over several times and not started with the injectors working then your plugs should be soaked with fuel when you pull them. Since i'm not there seeing what's happening i can only take a guess that the engine is flooded. This would explain lower compression, spark, fuel but no start. This does not support the fact that you're not seeing or smelling fuel.

twan

iTrader: (2)

ok, here's what i've come up with. Your right and I'm basically trying to understand why the plugs are not soaked with fuel. When i turn the car completely off, both the injector wires are grounded. Well, I jump one with some positive voltage and it clicks and injects fuel into the chamber. I do this to both injectors and confirm by watching the FPR guage lose pressure. Then I turn on the car and crank the engine. She stumbles like shes about to run. This tells me that my air fule ratio is off!!! Not getting nearly enough fuel for proper combustion at the plugs. Especially since my motor is ported and allowing more air into the chamber. Now, what tell the ECU how long to hold the injectors open therefore letting enough fuel into the newly ported motor? I think the throttle position sensor. Now I have that set to factory specs. 1.0 volts on the upper wire and .49 volts on the bottom. I think if I adjust that as I crank the motor I should find the happy medium. If, that is, what regulates the fuel curve in relation to amount of air in the chamber.
Otherwise, the injectors are F***ed or the EUC is F***ed!
Tell me what you think!!!

twan

iTrader: (2)

should I be getting anything more than 12 volts at the injector connections because my VOM read about 14.5 volts. Dont know if that is the problem or symptom of the real problem but I thought that to be a little odd. With the ignition on but car not running (obviously) Im getting about 14.5 volts on both the leads to each of the injectors.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

It will be whatever your battery voltage is. Try this, pull the rail off the block, but leave it all connected. Then crank the engine over. If you don't have an assistant to help crank it over, then run a wire from the starter solenoid to a toggle switch connected to +12V in the engine bay. Could be the battery post or the fuse block. This will allow you to crank the car from the engine bay, and see whats happening. You will need the key in the "on" position if you use an aux cranking switch. So with the rail off the block and still connected, crank the car and see if fuel squirts out the end of the primary injectors. Report back with your findings after you do this.

twan

iTrader: (2)

Thats actually exactly what I have been doing. Thats why I'm so sure that I have fuel but the odd thing is that when I put it all back together and crank it over, i get nothing or at least not enough fuel to start the engine which I find to be very strange. I was happy with the spray pattern that I got when I did that to the injectors but that same spray pattern seems to vanish when I have the plugs out. The only other thing I can gather is that i have the injectors firing opposite the timing. Like I have the injector plug connectors switched. Gonna give that a try. I dont really believe that crossed injector firing would cause a no start prob but I guess I'll see. BTW, Thanks for your feedback.

One more thing on the fuel vanishing issue. I put an open flame (a torch) directly if the path of the exiting fuel mixture at the spark plug hole and got no reaction!! I no thats it very very dangerous to do that but it confirms that the fuel is either absent completely or the mixture is way off.

twan

iTrader: (2)

JUST A FEW QUESTIONS:
1. Fuel pressure @ 40 psi is sufficient on a street ported motor?
2. TPS at factory settings is also sufficient on a street ported motor? (actually testing this theory now)
3. Air fuel ratio doesn't need to be adjusted on a ported motor? if so, how to adjust?
4. If the injectors are actually firing opposite of what they should be, where is the fuel going and would it really make a difference
5. is there a way to measure or sample the mixture at the spark plug hole for fuel ratio adjustment? A device of some kind other that a propane torch?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Yes yes and yes. 40 psi base, standard tps, and base map is fine for ported engine. It may need fine tuning for a good idle, but to run it's fine. I think you have a flooded engine. Check all plugs/wires and make sure you have a spark. Make sure the spark is between the electrode and ground strap. I've seen plugs fire way down in their bore. Next do the deflood procedure with fresh plugs preferably.

twan

iTrader: (2)

Agreed but what do you make of the torch at the plug holes? Shouldn't I get a reaction if the mixture is right? And If the injectors a pulsing in the opposite sequence, Could that be part of the problem?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

If your engine is flooded you won't get anything. And as low as your compression was it points to flooding. But your plugs should have lots of fuel smell on them. The car would probably still start with the wires reversed but it definitely won't help things.

twan

iTrader: (2)

I swear, if it wasn't for bad luck, I probably wouldn't have any! After all the crap I've been going through with the damn engine, I noticed that when I manually touch the white MSD wire to ground, the engine rotates like shes supposed to. That got me wondering, when I pull the plugs and ground them to the frame whilest cranking the engine, I get spark but it seem that i dont get spark when they're in the plug holes, WHY? well I think I found a major part if not the only part of the prob. A BROKEN WIRE TO MY MSD PICKUP WIRE in the harness from the igniter. I seems that sometimes it makes contact and sometimes it doesnt but I just blew my starter after I found that break. So my efforts fall to the wayside till I get another starter but I'm almost willing to bet she'll run soon as I get this fixed. GO FIGURE!!!

leprachaungold9

im dealing with this problem also but mine is so much worse lol 2 ways to keep my car running is to keep the trottle open or keep the vane air flow meter open or it will die i had to drive it home so i turned the idle up to keep it running but when i go into boost it just jutters and almost acts like a fuel cut.. but seams to be running really rich its the stock motor and i just replaced the turbo the car was running perfectly fine today alllll day and i just installed this turbo i didnt forget any vacume lines or nothing i was on the highway and i was hitting boost real nicely then i got on it in 5th gear my gaudge read about 25 psi of boost and i heard a pop and some louuuud backfires boost was completely gone and i had to keep the idle up or it would die someone needs to help me ive checks as much as i know!!!!!! prive message me or call me at 630 999 3313

leprachaungold9

btw did away with top mount and im running front mount i have a 88 rx7 turbo 2 apexi blow off valve stock turbo aero motive charge pipe and intercooler thats basicly all i know so far because i just bout the car 3 weeks agio and its my daily driver so i need suggestions asap i really hope its not the apex seals i heard the car wont even run with out them is that true?