twan

iTrader: (2)

I definitely think Im not getting any fuel. I just did the carb cleaner thing again by shooting it directly into the larger hole on the back of the UIM. I removed that hose and shot the cleaned in there and; HOLY SMOKEHOUSE BATMAN!!!!! but she started and as long as I kept shooting the cleaner, she ran!!!

twan

iTrader: (2)

5 minutes later: I also took your "Gas Soaked Rag" idea and stuffed it into the end of the elbow and almost instantly, she started and ran!! WTF!!! What could be causing this? She wouldn't run if there was a vaccum leak right? And she ran for a good 2 to 3 minutes by herself!!!

twan

iTrader: (2)

How can I verify that the injectors are working without tearing that UIM off again for the 5000th time.( WHAT A BITCH that is!)

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

I'll throw some ideas out...

If the injectors were just cleaned, it would be a good idea to try to zap them with 12v first. I've had the same issue before... You can do it from the ECU harness before you tear the whole thing apart. Use a paperclip and some aligator clips...

Did you set fuel pressure while the car was off but fuel pump on?

Did you possibly swap the secondary and primary injector clips?

I don't know...

twan

iTrader: (2)

While I had the UIM off, I actually hooked up a grounded aligator clip to one tab at a time to each injector and a 12v positive from the battery as well. This was with the injectors freestanding over the motor but connected together as to verify that they were working with fuel pressure set at 38psi. They all passed the test. I had the key in the on position but the vehicle wasnt running. I jumped the GND and the F/P connector in the data port with the regulator vaccum line disconnected. At no time at all including the rebuild process did I take the injectors out of their rails. I'm actually thinking that maybe the signal from the ecu isnt reaching them. It's the only thing that makes any sense. not sure how to test that though. First I think I'll make sure there is a signal by finding the leads at the ecu!

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

You can do a continuity test from the ecu to the injector clips, but that would involve removing the uim. At least you have it narrowed down to fuel it seems. You don't have the fuel return and supply lines crossed do you? You also know the regulator goes on the return line correct? There are also easier ways to test the injectors but it will involve pulling the uim and the injector rail. You don't have the primary clips swapped front to back do you? They can be tricky to tell which goes where if its am old harness.

twan

iTrader: (2)

I checked the Enging electrical FSM to get the color code for which injector harness goes to which injector, so i'm pretty sure that they're right but I definitely am going to do the continuity test as well as "T" some test lights into the harness at the injectors to verify pulse while cranking.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

you shouldnt have to do a continuity test if you use the little test lights, there is actually a thread in the FAQ area about a little set of test lights that plug right into the existing injector clips. They can be found at many auto parts stores for around 20 i think.

twan

iTrader: (2)

well, I connected two leds with resistors to each of the two primary injectors and although they both flash, which indicates that there is a pulse signal present at the injector, She still wont start! I still believe, however, that the problem is a fuel issue. I'm tempted to turn down the regulated pressure. I don't know why I feel that this may work but I guess it can't hurt !!

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Are your supply and return lines correct? You have the fpr on the return not supply right?

twan

iTrader: (2)

Yea, the FPR is on the return line. I double checked but hell, i'll check again. The flow is supposed to be into the primaries, through to the secondaries, into the FPR, and then back to the tank! CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG

twan

iTrader: (2)

could a bad ground be the cause of all of these problems? Since I put the led's on the injectors, even though they are flashing, I wonder if the amount of either B+ voltage or ground just isn't enough to operate the injectors. See, I just can't understand why there is no fuel getting into the chambers when the leds are flashing! I know that the ground that connects to the back of the UIM from the firewall isn't connected because I've been taking it off so often; so I'm thinking that it's the reason!! Give me your thoughts.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Keep the uim off have the fuel rail connected with injectors and see if they fire. That would be simple enough. I doubt that ground would keep the car from starting. It should have other grounds. Maybe prevent it from running at its optimum but it should still start. Did you check your map sensor? Do you have a good strong battery? And try pull starting it.

twan

iTrader: (2)

well before I tried your idea, I followed my own misguided idea and got a noticable difference in the way the engine sounded while cranking. As I said before, I took two leds with resistors and placed in parallel with the injector power wires. Even though I got flashes, they weren't strong. Well, I after I found the one from the ECU and which one goes to the ground side of the injector, I connected an aligator clip to my negative battery post on the ground side. Well the engine really started to trip. Like it was finally getting fuel and trying to start. I'm going to recharge the battery and try it again.

twan

iTrader: (2)

Since I've introduced ground through that wire, The leds are flashing brighter and the engine started and ran by itself for about 30 secs or so. I also connected that ground on the back of the UIM. I think it died because I forgot to turn the fuel pressure back up. I had turned it down for some reason. I forgot why. Now I have to let the Batt charge.

twan

iTrader: (2)

OK, so the injectors, through the EGI 30Amp fuse, get a constant + 12v to one side, when the ign is on! The black/white or yellow wire. (wires are a little dirty so can't really tell.) The other side get it's ground via the on off switch, A.K.A. the ECU when the time is correct. Well for the LEDs to flash, there has to be a ground signal at that side of the injector since they're wired in parallel. So how come she wont run even though the injectors are firing? gonna do another compression test tomorrow after work. Hopefully I can get the engine warm since she wont keep running

twan

iTrader: (2)

One othe thing, when I jump the neg side of the led, the lights dont stay on, well one of them doesn't. It comes on and the goes out even if I maintain the ground connection. That makes me think of duty cycle. Like which ever one that is, it isn't staying open long enough for the proper amount of fuel to enter the chamber. Does that make any sense or should that be the case and the one that does remain lit is faulty?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

i think you should see it flashing. it shouldn't just stay on. well unless you are keeping it on by not breaking the connection. If you are connecting direct current to the injector you should be able to control if its on or off. If you are just cranking it via the key then it should flash on and off as it fires the injector.

if you have spark, fuel, and compression all at the correct time then your engine should run and start. If you have a manual try pull starting it. you can get the rpm's up alot higher then just cranking it. Rebuilt engines can be difficult to get running due to not being broken in. everything is a bit loose and you can lose compression from face to face. you can also try putting a little motor oil, marvel mystery oil, or trans fluid in the chambers and run through the deflood procedure. if you crank the car long enough without it starting it will flood very easily. Check your map sensor also. Its vital to providing the correct amount of fuel.

twan

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone tell me if I could have blown the injectors or somehow changed the required operating voltage of the injectors by giving them a direct voltage from the battery. I have a good friend who is for all intents and purposes, an ase certified veteran mechanic, and he has almost convinced me that the injectors need so little voltage to open that by giving them any amount of voltage above the ECU output; even for a second, would cause irreversable damage to them. Even though they may still; open and close, the small quick signal from the ECU will almost, not be enough! Does that sound like it's in the ball park to anybody. if so, that may indeed be my problem. I'm sure that it's a fuel issue since the motor runs with a gas soaked rag or by shooting Carb cleaner into the manifold. Let me know guys. I'm still dealing with this stupid issue.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I don't think applying 12 volts will hurt them.i'm pretty sure they run on 12 volts. If they are still working there is no reason to think the ecu can't open them. Just pull the rail out crank the car and see if the injectors are firing. Its not that hard. I think some of the problems you're having are being made more difficult then they should be.

twan

iTrader: (2)

I hope so. GOD knows i don't need any more issues than I already have. I didn't think that they would be hurt either. but I just wanted to hear it from someone else. I have heard of issues like that with some other cars but never has one of ours been mentioned. On the other hand, my LED's are flashing but they're very dull and when i give them a ground connection, only one will remain lit for as long as the ground is applied which is just not logical. In Fact, what it actually does is blink once, very quickly as the ground is removed from it's source. ?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

What really matters is if the injectors are being fired by the ecu. It seems so much more direct to just disconnect the rail from the block give the car a crank and see if the injectors squirt out fuel. If they do then nothing is wrong with them. If they don't then you will have ruled that out. Course if you are running sequential system still i can see why you would dread doing that. If you're single turbo or non sequential then it should take like 15 mins to pull the injectors out of the block. Have you pulled the plugs? Are they wet? If you crank the car with them out does a misty fuel come from the plug holes? Ask yourself questions and answer them with basic tests to narrow things down. Check out the fsm for some other tests that can be performed to find problems. Are you still throwing ecu codes? Did you ever test the map sensor like i suggested? I recommended a dozen things to try, but only a couple it seems you've tried. But keep diging at least you will learn more about your car.

twan

iTrader: (2)

Hey Guys, long time no hear. Sorry I was MIA for a bit but now I'm back and with some bitter sweet news. To make a long story short, I ended up replacing the primary injectors. For whatever reason; which is unknown by me, they werent flowing enough fuel into the chambers. Soon as I replaced them, she ran and she ran good. UNFORTUNATELY, the same thing has happened again. it looks like I'm gonna have to replace the replacements. Can't figure out what is going on here or Why this keeps happening.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Its unlikely that your replacements are faulty. Although it depends did you just clean the existing ones or got NEW injectors??

Either way, it sounds like you have a problem elsewhere.

Example: faulty fuel pump, clogged fuel fiter. There is even a chance that maybe your fuel pump relay isnt switching to 12v?? IIRC, it makes the FP switch from 9v to 12V??

twan

iTrader: (2)

BTW, Here is a list of all my "UNDER THE HOOD" mods:
street ported motor (intake and exhaust ports) Did myself with racingbeat templates
Upgraded, teflon coated seals and o-rings (stock 2mm sizes)
lightweight flywheel w/ stage 2 organic clutch disk
Bigger oil jets
underdrive water pump and alt pulleys
racing alum radiator w/ dual coolig fans
simplified seq incld. block off mods with replacement silicone vac lines
msd on leadings with 2nd gen coil
magnacore plug wires and iriduim plugs (leading and trailing)
Autoteq adjustable FPR with Walboro fuel pump with the fuel pump power mod
3" DP and MP with high flow cat/ awating my 4" catback
retained my airpump and bigger front mount Intercooler w/ airbox mod (K&N FILTER)
all on stock twins and injectors
only thing I didn't do that I wish i did was a wastegate port!
looking for a used PFC and a electronic boost controller ( AEM SOLENOID)
just received my solid poly engine mounts for use with torque brace (I know, i know, OVERKILL)
AIMING FOR Approx. 350 whp!!