twan

iTrader: (2)

I also think I'll do a leakdown test on the intake to make sure that all is well. If there is a small leak, that might explain a few things!!

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

When i was working out some issues with my car i did the fuel soaked rag probably 20 times or more. I don't think its really that dangerous personally. Even if you do have a backfire through the intake and the rag were to ignite as long as your face is clear and you're prepared to put out the rag all should be fine. That sounds like the correct fuel pressure with the car off so its probably not that. I'm guessing the vacuum nipple is hooked up? When it does start does it seem excessively rich?

twan

iTrader: (2)

No, it doesn't seem rich at all. When I first put the engine in after the rebuild and started her up. everything was great. She actually ran fo a good while by herself. I did get a tremendous amount of smoke and a really strong smell but after a few minutes, it went away. now, I don't getthat smell at all. maybe a little smoke for a minute but not at all like the initial start-up. When I pulled the codes this morn, i got a 12 (Throttle sensor-full range), an 18(throttle sensor-narrow range), and a 40( purge control solenoid). The 40 could be causing a fuel problem but Im not sure!! I know the other two are from my tweaking the TPS.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

you could clear the codes and see if they come back, i dont know if the tps codes would put the car in limp mode or not, but it certainly would need the TPS to run correctly. so you should make sure it isn't actually still throwing a code.

i dont think the PCV (purge control valve) would cause the problems you're having, its basically a crank case vent. on the other hand i dont know how the stock ecu handles a problem code for the pcv either. you might have to do some searches to see what the forum says about it.

spark, fuel, and compression is what it takes for an engine to run. if one is missing or lacking it wont run correctly. so figure out which one it is. sounds like compression is fine, and i'm guessing you checked all the spark wires to make sure they are firing. though if they were firing out of order or drastically retarded from limp mode those would be theoretical problems. then you look to the fuel, the rag trick will tell you if the car is getting enough fuel. pulling the plugs will also tell you whats going on in the combustion area. personally i hate the stock plugs and run an ngk motorcycle racing plug thats actually cheaper and makes the car run and start much better, it just requires a thin wall socket. i'll never go back to the stock plugs.

twan

iTrader: (2)

well, I took my UIM off because I wanted to double check the hoses. I found two of them had small holes in them. Not absolutely sure that their the cause of the prob; but definitely need to replace them.

twan

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I definitely getting spark from all the wires. My kids will attest to that. I think they really got a kick out of watching as I got the **** shocked out of me. And I agree with you 100% on the stock plugs. I upgraded to NGK Iriduims on my leadings. I'll probably get the trailings as well. The Purge valve is definitely fried. I put voltage to it and ......nothing, sound of crickets!!! so i'm gonna take your advise and do some searching to see if that would cause limp mode. I still don't know what the symptoms of limp mode are or how to get out of it!!! Thanks again. I'll keep at it!!!!!

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

are the ngk iridiums gappable plugs? or the same as the stock design? i think the gappable plugs put the spark closer to the combustion area improving starting and general performance while reducing fouling.

i've been shocked a couple times myself, not fun. though more surprising then painful. fortunately i havent been shocked with my twin power attached, i've seen 6" spark jumps while one wire was accidentally disconnected!

as long as you are continually testing things, you're making progress. and eventually you will find the culprit causing the problems. If you were to read the threads i started over the past few years you would see all the issues i had to work out with my car. I never have been able to trust my car with someone else, plus im cheap so i do everything myself.It took awhile to work all the bugs out, but now i have an increased understanding of everything going on in the car, and it was all worthwhile, despite being frustrating at the time.

Keep us updated with what you do and any progress or lack of

twan

iTrader: (2)

Will definitely keep you updated. Besides it seems like the closer I get to fixing the problem, the more problems I run into. I guess i'll find it all out eventually. But damn it makes me crazy!! And i am in the same boat when it comes to working on my car, not only because i don't trust anyone wuth my car but there really isn't anyone willing or knowledgeable enough to even begin to work on these cars in my immediate area. Most people have never even seen a rotary engine. So thats a headache I just avoid. Unfortunately that leaves me to my own frustration. Oh, by the way, the iridium plugs are a fixed gap plug. There actually two different style plugs. One for each position. The leadings look more like the standard plug with a small ground tip welded to it like a regular plug. The trailings also have the welded tip on them but are basically just the center electrode and the outer shell. It isn't cut into quarters.

twan

iTrader: (2)

Now the thing wont start!! I have just about had it with this freakin car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm not getting any leading spark! I know you mentioned the CAS before but all was fine with them. Like i said before, my kids would agree but it now seems that either theres no signal from the CAS or the igniter took a ****! this is just crazy!

twan

iTrader: (2)

I did some searchin but failed to find any threads regarding checkin the signal at the igniter. I am definitely getting trailing spark but no leading. That has to mean the CAS are working right? I get +12 at the coil but not grounding to fire it. thats the igniters job right?

twan

iTrader: (2)

bump

twan

iTrader: (2)

SCRATCH THAT! LED with resistor at Pin 1h or F. But if I get signal, that means igniter is shot. maybe I can bypass that signal to my msd instead of through igniter if that circuit in the igniter is dead! What cha think?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I honestly have no idea how to check or bypass the igniter signal. Did you test the coils? you can swap the coil signal wires around to make sure its not the leading coil. If your wiring harness is old its possible the crispy wires are at fault. Do a continuity test on the wires. Even a new harness could have a wire issue. If you have an elec tester with an audible alert this makes it very easy to test connections. When i lost my leading signal it turned out to be the pins on the short coil harness right at the plastic connector. I used an ice pick to release the pins so i could resolder the pins to the wires. Something else that i did to make things much easier is run a switch in the engine bay to the starter solenoid. Its very easy to do and allows you to crank the engine as you test things without help from your kids. get a female connector with 2 wires crimped in. One short wire with a male tab to plug the original ignition switch wire in, and a long wire that goes to your switch in the engine bay. I used a toggle switch so i could have both hands free if needed. Just be sure to flip it off after the car starts. Or before the starter burns up! -reply sent via cell-

twan

iTrader: (2)

Dude thats not a bad idea, i had actually thought of using a remote starter before but didn't think it would work because of the clutch switch. I will look into that!! HOWEVER! I am apparently going to be in morning for a few days because my coil bit the dust today. I don't know if the igniter is at fault or as you say, the wiring harness but it blew up right in my face today. WHAT a stink!!! Now I definitely have to upgrade my leading coil and I think my front trailing as well. WHAT NEXT!?!?!?!?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Yeah the switch will go directly to the starter solenoid. So it bypasses the clutch switch

twan

iTrader: (2)

I 'm beginning to think my igniter had something to do with these problems!! I checked for signal from the ECU, at least on the leading wire, at the plug to the igniter, and the LED flickered. It wasn't eask to see but I definitely saw it flickering. Pulsing is probably a better term. I wasn't getting anything at all out of the igniter. This was before I fried my coil. Didn't know about the bad blood between FD's and MSD's. The other strange thing is that my front trailing wasn't firing either. They were both firing when I first installed the motor but maybe the igniter went bad that quickly. Anybody got a sprare igniter????? Gonna use a T2 leading and stock trailings if there still good!

twan

iTrader: (2)

Ok, Im back and unfortunately, not much to report. I've temporarly solved my lead coil issum with a substitute GM waste spark coil. It may end up as the fix; however I still have this stupid problem of the egnine stalling unless I give it repeated blipps of the throttle. And my arm can't take but so much of that. Soon as I stop, the engine dies. I was wondering if a lightweight flywheel with the auto tranny weight might be causing part, if not all of the problem? I doubt it as well but I am still at a loss. My other thought was if the timing was off for some reason. How do I check to verify the spark is happening when It should??
I don't know guys this is getting tired. If I use a screwdriver to tap the butterfly instead of tap the throttle cable with my finger, I get the same result and it's just a small amount of movement that makes all the difference in the world!!! I'm almost ready to slap a for sale sign on her!!!!

twan

iTrader: (2)

thought I heard some sort of vaccum leak down by the exhaust manifold. Would a leak inside the turbo housing assembly or the manifold somewhere, cause this type of stalling problem???
I don't see how it could but with these engines, who knows? maybe a certain amount of backpressure is required there?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Exhaust leak no. Vacuum leaks yes. Is your lower intake manifold gasket not sealing? Did you ever pull the plugs and analyze them? Or run through my list of recommendations? Did you reset the codes and see if they were still up? How about trying a spare ecu? There are so many things you should just try, to get them over with. Its a process of elimination. Maybe you should just take it to a rotary specialist cause at this point time is money.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Another thing i read about your setup is you did the fuel pump mod. I don't think that will be good for power on the stock ecu. I am not sure if it will cause starting issues or not but it could. My car ran quite a bit richer when i did the fuel pump mod. I have a pfc and datalogit which allows me to tune that fuel out. I wouldn't think that would cause a stalling issue but just throwing it out there. Though you have an aftermarket fpr so maybe it won't matter idk. When you set the fuel pressure did you jump the fuel pump or have the car running? Just making sure the fuel pressure wasn't set under vacuum. Is your car a manual? Have you tried pull starting it to see if it will stay running and or drive?

twan

iTrader: (2)

When I set the FPR, I did the primer pin jump at the data connector. I took the primary injectors out and saw that there was no o-ring in either of them. I don't know how I overlooked them but obviously, I did. Not sure that I have found the problem but I do believe that would cause a vaccum leak in the intake track. Who knows, maybe enough to cause my entire issue. I do by the way have an code 40 (EGR SOLENOID) which might be hurting as well! I did pull the plugs as per your recommend! Didn't really see anything especially now that The starting problem is gone. She'll start right up repeatedly. Till the batt. runs down! lastly, I did see something somewhere about the IG. Timing being different for some modded engines. But I dont even really know how to use a timing light on this thing

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I wouldnt worry about changing the timing manually. I'm not even sure the FD can be adjusted manually. The street port and stock map won't keep your car from running. though optimally an aftermarket ecu would be used to fully utilize the mods you have. But this is from a power perspective.

The large vacuum leak caused by no injector o-rings would cause an issue, though mostly it would cause an erratic and excessively high idle. Fix this.

So you are saying the car will start up and run now? Or it starts and dies?

Generally with a street ported engine idle timing is slightly advanced, though unless you are running manual idle control the ecu will adjust this on its own anyways. the rest of the IG map is generally retarded more then stock.

Really you dont need special settings just to get it to start, run, idle and drive normal. The base maps fuel, IGL, IGT and all other stock settings will work just fine on a street port, provided you are running the stock injectors, base pressure, etc. What you will be looking for, if the car isnt running right, is a definite problem. A wire loose, a fuel issue, no compression. things like that. The timing and such wont be the problem, unless your CAS is backwards, bent, broken,

Sounds like your FPR is set correctly, as long as you also have a vacuum souce hooked to it.

twan

iTrader: (2)

Wee I thought thatI fixed the vaccum leak with the injectororing but now the damn thing wont start. I know something wasn't right because I could start the engine by spraying carb cleaner under the UIM at the primary injector area of the engine. So I figure if the leak is big enough to start the engine; well it must be big enough to stall it as well. So I got new o-rings. I used two new ones on each of the secondary injectors because they turned out to be the same thickness when stacked and one big one around the body of the primary to seal off tat air bleed hole that comes through the center housing. I also used one at the base of the primaries. Now theres not vaccum leak but she wont start. Is that air bleed hole inside the primary injector socket critical to the atomization of the fuel or something cause I cant figure this out!!!!! I may have one O-ring too many or should that air bleed hole actually be open even though that wouldn't maek any sense to me at all!?!?!?!

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

The atomization line is not critical for making the engine run. Many people block it off entirely. Have you checked the map sensor and its voltages?

twan

iTrader: (2)

I havent checked the MAP but this morn, I put everything back together and rigged up my air hose for filling tires and such to the nipple on the elbow, blocked off the elbow inlet at the intercooler connection with a folded plastic bag and some rags to prevent it from blowing apart. I clamped them on. Well, Im not getting any bleeding around the injectors anymore. I am getting what sound like air leaking from around the turbos somewhere but up top, IT BLEW THE BAG RIGHT OFF, CLAMP AND ALL. To me, that means no vaccum leaks. But she still wont start. I did get the desired result while spraying Carb Cleaner into the throttle body while cranking it. Yea I did the bypass with my jumper cables like you suggested! It seem like I'm not getting any fuel at all. Would the map be the cause of a problem like no fuel?????