quick_spoolin

iTrader: (1)

So I have had my half bridge for a few years now and I havent even put 1000 miles on it. I miss the streetablity of my old street ported motor. When I had this motor built I was way into drag racing and big HP numbers. Now that I have gotten older and dont race as much, I use the FD for the weekend cruzer. I think its time to trade off the motor or build another street ported motor.

anderdick88

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for ur Loss

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

pics?

quick_spoolin

iTrader: (1)

No loss and no pics. Its still running to this day. I just wish I had put all the time and money into A street port or a stock port 20B insted of this half bridge

mikeric

iTrader: (20)

Very curious. What is exactly the "streetability" difference? No low end? Does the turbo talke longer to spool?

LERRY

iTrader: (12)

I daily drive my half bridge without any problems, except my car being too loud and attracting attention

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

i find a bit of irony in your situation handle given your handle.

while i raced monster bridgeports for 6 seasons my rpm band was 7000 to 10,000 rpm. i realise your BP is significantly smaller but BPs are clearly a trade-off. until X velocity is reached there is really really bad VE (volumetric efficiency)* due to incoming charge pollution. to be fair, after that rpm is reached BPs may outperform non BPs. so it is a trade off.

generally when someone dynos and posts their results we get a number the top tick is the headline, and often it is what we remember.

we all know that boardmember X made Y hp.

and yet, top tick is not what wins races.

HORSEPOWER UNDER THE CURVE WINS RACES

and it is this concept that is effecting your view of your FD currently. not necessarily that you are thinking about races but you are, perhaps, underwhelmed by your midrange.

that's why i have encouraged boardmembers to not only look at the toptick but look at 5500 rpm. if you are running a 450 -600 rwhp FD, take a look at your dyno sheet at 5500. ideally you want 400 rwhp (SAE) at 5500.

i say SAE because if your dyno sheet shows "standard" as a correction mode it is around 10 hp higher than the generally recognised standard which is SAE. the only diff between SAE and Standard is the temperature and pressure assumptions. all the dyno operator has to do is click on SAE... so if it is Standard someone is either ignorant of general methods or wants to show you a higher figure.

anyway, back to the midrange HP under the curve... because the rotary is a 2 cycle motor, not having valves and their attendant convoluted ports, it is extremely effected by port design. while porting does effect the top end alot, it is not generally understood that porting perhaps effects midrange to a greater degree. making midrange is all about spool.

i am aware that a turbocharger can make up for many porting ills by cramming air into the engine. i am aware that 600 rwhp has been made w stock ports.

but that doesn't mean it was pretty... the FD does have significantly better ports than prior rotaries but there still is tons to be gained. you are looking to make high VE everywhere on the map.

so my advice is, if you are looking for midrange as well as top end, sell your motor to someone who can use it and replace it w a 400 rwhp/5500 motor. street rocket

two other points:

w the advent of AI you can comfortably live w a 500 rwhp rotary running on pump gas from a longevity aspect. this pretty much narrows the 20B need to a very very narrow market segment because a 500 rwhp FD is so fast it will almost leave the earth.

BP's require more exhaust as they are so loud. some say after you have added exhaust so that your brain doesn't rattle out of your head you have effectively decreased the performance margin...

howard

quick_spoolin

iTrader: (1)

Wow that was a bunch of blah blah blah info....

What I dont like is that I have to drive in second around town doing 25mph and yet still its jerky in the car. You cant cruz in 5th and do 50mph 4th is to loud and you cant bog it lower then idle of 1500 rpms... I live near and drive around the city and it is not stop and go and driving slow friendly.

Just a heads up for anyone thinking of this port.
UNLESS YOU WANT TO KEEP YOUR CAR FOR STRICKLY DRAG DO NOT GET A HALF OR FULL BRIDGE PORT!!!!

Keep with stock or street ports.

I have for 7 years now and had 3 diffrent motors in it and the worst mistake i did was go half bridge.

Like I said at that time I raced ALOT and now as a cruzer it sucks.

I run a Turbonetics HP66 Ball bearing and its spools quick... I am happy with the power and the response. I was never unhappy with the response with my stock or street ported motors either.

I am running 14psi and get full boost at and around 3grand.

pito13b

iTrader: (3)

Mine is also jerky in the lower RPM's, but that's just something you have to expect. Its like you are shifting the entire range up 1k. I find that I can cruise in 5th pretty good though. I am on a base map and still breaking in my engine. Just took a bit of fuel out down low and its been doing well. I love the sound, and I really don't care if I make alot of power. There is always someone that's going to be faster. I don't daily drive it so that helps. For exhaust, I have a magnaflow and a racing beat and there are hondas much louder than I am.

I am assuming yours is already tuned? Either way, good luck with the next project or if you decide to stick it out with the half bridge.

quick_spoolin

iTrader: (1)

Thank you!

It is tuned.

I think I might just get a cheap JDM short block and through my turbo on and run like 12psi and keep the half bridge for the future.

I just miss the ease of being able to daily drive it like a normal car.

FDWarrior

iTrader: (6)

You could probably trade your engine block for a street port version to another board member. I personally love my half bridge but everyone has there personal application.

junito1

even in a stock port engine i found its easier to cruise between 2000-3k rpms. I usually dont use 5th unless im on the highway.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I don't think this thread has much to do with power. It has to do with the everyday drawbacks of a very heavily modified engine.

It's not too different from running an extreme cam(s) on a piston motor. at low engine speed and low load, the overlap between intake and exhaust stroke is significant, resulting in exhaust majorly diluting the intake charge. That means extra fuel consumption, bucking, weak vacuum and loss of low end power, etc. That can only be improved somewhat by good tuning.

That's why almost all piston engines use variable valve timing (and in some cases variable lift) now. You get most of the benefits of aggressive cams without the drawbacks.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

"It's not too different from running an extreme cam(s) on a piston motor. at low engine speed and low load, the overlap between intake and exhaust stroke is significant, resulting in exhaust majorly diluting the intake charge. That means extra fuel consumption, bucking, weak vacuum and loss of low end power, etc"

exactly.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Sure, that won't take long. You can probably do it in an afternoon

If you do get a JDM shortblock, pray the coolant seals have some life left in them.

junito1

Are coolant seals ,usually, the first thing that goes on JDM blocks?

I do compression checks on my engine every other month and its still 100psi total on each rotor.
HOw much do coolant seals affect comp. results?

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

HBP + DD FTW!!! brap brap

quick_spoolin

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I used to think!!! haha


I have it up for trade in the local for sale, but geez these local MODS are on some power trips hard core.

I keep getting flash backs of online forum drama from these teeny boper mods that are on a power trip.

Trying to run the forum like comunist nation.

Well if anyone who has read this is from Washington and is interested in swaping or has a cheap short block let me know.

I was talking to a buddy of mine that is the main importer for the area I live in and he has a half cut that he would hook me up with for $1500 so I might go that route and save h/b.

LS1INSIDE

iTrader: (1)

Thats understandable man. I have a HB and its my daily driver, and there is no getting around it, it can be a Ruff loud drive in town. I normally drive at 60 just to avoid any bucking lol. and there is a lot more shifting involved to keep it in its happy rpm range. Ha. but i Love driving it... I have a trans am that i can drive tho if i need a break from the noise and harshness. So that makes it more manageable... havent got my 7 tuned yet tho so it may get a little bit more street friendly.... What kind of power did your HBP engine put down?

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

why are yours so loud? mine IS loud but not that loud... 3" all the way back with a magnaflow resonator and apexi? exhaust... and its really not that bad..

by loud are you complaining its too loud for you or for the public?

i quietcoated my car and its really not that bad in the cabin.......
(but since im bringin my girl to deals i just through on another coat to help tone it down for the 13+hour drive =))

quick_spoolin

iTrader: (1)

Im street tuned. I havent dynoed it. I am only running 14psi. My daily driver for work is a 2005 BMW X5 and if want somthing sportier I have an M3 with bolt ons to drive so I guess im just getting to be a softy in my old age haha

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Oh wow, never thought I'd see you again! I heard you were done with Rx7club for good!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Too technical? Short story, half-bridge is not much fun to drive until you're close to redline. If you're at all interested in the technical, re-read Howard's post because that kind of information simply can't be presented in a better way. Footnote: "VE" means volumetric efficiency.

My car is a wonderfully streetable near-stock setup. I do autocross it and doe a few track days. It doesn't gather cops and it's easy or tires. When people ask me if it's all set up for "racing", I explain that if it were truly set up for racing it would not be good for anything else. I cannot keep up with well prepared cars unless they're a bad driver.

Likewise anyone daily driving a car who claims it's "Race" setup is full of crap. Or they're deaf and getting pulled over every 5 miles.

Good luck with your changes. A set of good bridgeported housings should sell easily. It's the labor that makes this a big effort.

Dave

I love pop-up lights

Not on a power trip, he was enforcing the forum rules which you disregarded when posting the ad. Nice try though.

LS1INSIDE

iTrader: (1)

Ha im sure there are plenty of ways to make them not so loud. you can always put another muffler on. my old 3 inch apexi wasnt real loud at all. but now im running a full 4 inch exhaust strait threw with no mufflers yet.(haven't found one i like yet) it is a bit obnoxious and will prob get me pulled over soon lol. it doesnt bother me tho, i like em loud.. To Each His Own.. My car isn't set up for the meek, ha ha but you could sell that HB engine and buy a street port one and prob have a little cash left in your pocket.
And it you are just plane tired of it all you could always sell the entire engine setup and put in an LSX.