You should be able to install injectors to a 'feels tight to me' status while not over tightening and then pressurize the system to see that there are no leaks. Injectors do not need to be overly tight to seal properly. If there is a leak, then additional tightening may be necessary (provided you did not tear an o-ring on installation). I know you pressurized the system so I have no explanation for why it resulted in a leak later.

 

Good thing you caught the fire in time! Usually this type type of engine fire ends with much more damage, or the car totaled. Fortunately you were prepared and it looks like the engine isn't toast.

Hopefully you get the car back together soon and better than before You've definitely put a lot of time and money into your build so far.

We made two different quick release fire extinguisher mounts for situations just like yours, where time is critical. We also offer halon/halotron (clean agent) extinguishers, which are much more powerful than standard dry chemical extinguishers. Extinguishers are like condoms. It's better to have one and not need it, than to need one and not have it If you're in the market for either feel free to contact us

-Dan
SakeBomb Garage

 

Well it happen, and now I will rebuild. Already got rid off the intake and rails, hopefully this doesn't happen to the person that bought them, but they are well aware of what happen to me. It sucks that most of those parts were bought in the last 2 years, mil spec harness 8 months, anyways here is pic of what's waiting for the Black Mamba. Out with the S366 in with the S480

 

Emailed you back, waiting for response. I'm willing to ship you guys the injectors for you guys to inspect them as requested, hopefully you guys aren't expecting me to pay for shipping after what happen.

Also the email you sent me about the older ID hats being shorter than the new ID hats that your rails were designed with, that to me doesn't make sense, if my ID 2000 hats were smaller that means that my injectors shouldn't had bottom out since there should be more clearance.

I believe that You guys have provided free parts to other forum members that had issues with other vendors product, now I had issues with your product and I have to pay for my damaged parts. Not very happy with your costumer service.

 

We were just about to respond to your email from Friday when I saw this post. We are trying to work with you and have asked for better pictures of the damage and to return the setup so we could check everything out (of course we will cover shipping). However in your email you said you already sold everything except the injectors and were not willing to wait for us to look anything over. We understand this is a very troubling experience but we need all of the pieces to put together an accurate picture of what happened. Now with no intake/rail assembly it may be very difficult to make a determination. We wanted to make sure this isn't a product deficiency and to inform customers of possible install issues so it will not happen to others in the rotary community.

We offered cost on replacement parts at MINIMUM even if it turned out your fire had nothing to do with our product. We want you to know we stand behind our products 100% but we need cooperation to help you.

 

Like I said earlier, rails and intake setup is sold, and the person that bought it is well aware of what happen. You shouldn't need the intake as you informed me on the email that you have one going your way, also you shouldn't need the rails as I'm sure you have more of them in stock. As far as what's left of my injectors you can have them to do with them any testing. Send me the address and I will have them on your way.

Since I don't think that my intake setup was one of a kind, and the rail kit is identical to the others you make it shouldn't be a issue with you replicating the setup, the only issue will be my injectors or better said whats left of them, so not sure how my old ID injectors with the different size hat as you stated in the email will help you. But they are all yours.

 

woah... your fuel rail bolts are either tight or they are not. if you are "adjusting" your injector's "tightness" via the torque of your fuel rail bolts, you're a likely candidate to be the next guy posting your own BBQ thread.

 

Just so your know, it's pretty damn common to adjust tightness and gauge it from the feedback of the bolt. What do you do? Turn it till it looks good? whether or not it's loose or gives tq feedback?... pffftt

 

You said you were tightening and then "backing off a tid bit" the torque of your fuel rail bolts to adjust how much play your injectors have.

Your reply here makes little to no sense so I will disregard it and attempt to explain it in a way that you will understand, to hopefully prevent you from the same mess.

In extremely easy and simple terms... if your fuel rail bolts have 5 inch pounds of torque or 50 on them, it should NOT EFFECT how much play your injectors have. If it does, you have a problem that you need to resolve ASAP.

 

Not my place to say, but they would need the rail... What if the rail has a fault in it that made the injector fail? You should try working with them on this, if it is a fault i think helping them find is a good Service to the other users

 

Maybe you didn't read but I don't longer owned the rails.

Also maybe they should had told me that they would need the rail, all they told me it was to contact them and that's what I did.

Others don't pay for my repairs, if they want the rails I will talk to the buyer. And if they are willing to send a new set of rails in exchange I'm sure he wouldn't mind that.

 

Ok talk with my friend that bought the rails, and he has no problem sending the rails but he will need another set, if you guys are ok you can send them to me preferably with a return shipping label so I can send you back the old ones and the injectors. I will pm you my address.

 

Those fuel lines near the turbo would worry me.

I'm a fan of stock rails only. Lots of the modified cars I buy have injector leaks. If you need more fuel than 850 primary and 1300 secondary injectors to power your street FD you have a fuel problem and should seek help

 

So 800cc/1300cc is enough fuel for a 600hp FD?

 

I have no idea what a 600 HP FD would need other than some fire protection

You sir have a fuel problem and should seek out HP anonymous asap

 

Isn't the bored out secondaries unreliable in terms of fuel delivery? Mixed reviews on them that I read. Sorry for thread jacked

 

A lot more reliable than aftermarket rails, spacers, o rings, cups, clips/plugs, shims, injector resistors, drivers etc....... LOL

Personally I like them bored to 1200 which I'm told helps with sticking etc..... but I've yet to experience problems with the 1300s.

It's the simplicity that makes the rotary great so don't eff up the one thing we have going for us.

Save the rotary and JUST SAY NO to extra power and fuel

 

look who's talking about save the rotary, the guys that buys them and turn them into pieces, but I guess we all need a guy like you every once ans a while.

By any chance you won't happen to have a pair of housings in good condition, I need to save a rotary.

 

I'm all for simplicity, I am saying no to a lot of power lol, I just want 300-350 whp which would make me not need a ton of fuel, 1300 would be enough just thought boring is a bad idea.

 

Again I've heard stories but that's all and I've had several cars with bored secondaries including my current track car that I've driven for 7 years with no injector issues. Someone should start a poll of those who have and have not had issues with bored secondary injectors. Could have 3 choices 1200, 1250 and 1300. I think most of the issues come from the 1300s.

OR go with 4 850s

I happen to have a some nice 850s loaded up in a modified primary rail

 

I do but need to tear the engine down to give a 100% accurate description and just don't have time to mess with it, too busy tearing apart modified FDs and selling parts to power addicts and shells and rollers to replace the ones that burned to the ground or hugged a tree LOL

 

I think I'd have enough fuel with 550s and 1200s, hmmm 850 in primary is another discussion in itself. Way too rich idle and difficult in tuning is what I've read, then again all of my knowledge is reading so I don't have any real world experience.

 

Let me know when you do, and keep the parts rolling.

 

It all depends on the Tunning, I was idling at 13.9 with 1000cc primaries, I don't think a stock FD can idle at those AFR

 

A good tuner has no problems with 850 primaries but you are all set if you have 1200s. However with that said it's all give and take. The stock ECU with 550s has the best idle and things go down hill from there but the stock ECU sucks at everything but idle LOL.

Absolutely if and when you need anything please let me know