i'll update this thread for johnny:



and because of this ^ a leading plug was fouled, so it was running on one rotor.

thanks for the input guys.

 

oh wow, lol....at least it was an easy fix.

 

man I hate when that happens, that same thing happened to me at a taco bell like 3 days after I bought my first one. Scared the hell out of me lol

 

Jacob surprised me by working on the car while I was out and the car is running good now. Still need to button up a few things but at least i can get into boost and stay in boost now.

Cant thx Jacob enough and I appreciate those them chimed in this thread and tried to assist.

 

Oh my....... how was that missed -_-

 

Unless you fudged up your compression test that you showed earlier, I still don't think you have a "healthy" FD. You might have a running one, but not a healthy one.

 

It was plugged up at one time and it recently fell off.

The compression test was done when I first got the car back in March. When I did the test it had a huge exhaust leak between the turbo's and manifold and intake leak at the LIM. Since then I have pulled the engine and replaced the gaskets.

So the engine with new gaskets was put in on 4/20. I had a small coolant leak from the turbos because i left off 1 off the copper washers. When I was testing driving it on 4/20, I didn't really get to shake it down because i thought the PPF wasn't fully bolted on good.

Went to DGRR and ddnt touch the car from 4/20 - 4/27. While at DGRR i noticed that everyone's non sequential setup was different than mine and after some more research I questioned the way the previous did the non seq mod and created this thread on 5/1.

Between 4/20 and 5/1 the MAP sensor vac knocked off and I didn't know it and created the vid to show ppl what it sounded like running. I prob should have known the engine was runing on 1 rotor but this is my 1st rotary and the car was running crappy due to exhaust and intake leaks so I didnt know what a good running car was supposed to sound like.

Hope this clears up some confusion.

 

You do realize that a compression test is solely your combustion chambers and your internal seals? Unless you took apart the engine between now and the original test, nothing you've done would affect a compression test.

 

johnny, mahjik is referring to the overall health of your engine based on the compression test, which doesn't lie. it's not blown up, but it has 6 in-tact apex seals.

more specifically, your engine made good compression *peak* but not on all faces, which is the result of having one weak apex seal (one weak seal causes compression to be lower on 2 of the 3 rotor faces). the compression graph you posted is only of one rotor, but you can see how much higher that one pulse was than the pulses of the other 2 faces (which can also be heard faintly in the exhaust on your car at idle, me and charles noticed).

bottom line: the reason people are saying your engine isn't healthy is because it's not healthy. however, it has 6 apex seals, it starts up cold, it starts up hot, and it runs fine, so just deal with it until you feel like rebuilding it.

 

^ also, you compression tested it before you really got it running well, fixed vac leaks, etc... IIRC this thing wasn't running for a while when you bought it. After a while driving it, premixing well, etc, it wouldn't be a bad idea to compression test again for new updated numbers. I wouldn't be really surprised if you picked up a little compression (small chance but still). Also, be sure to test both rotors, because while comparison among rotor faces is important, its also important to compare front to back.