Yes I know there are a bunch of non sequential write ups and threads but I have a hacked up job from the previous owner and need help on getting my car to run correctly.

Current issue with the car
- Idiling at 10.0 on an AEM wideband and smoking out of the tail pipe

- Green high-lighted items are things I don’t have
- Red are items I do have

So starting from the top I’ll walk you through the pic.
- As you can see in the pic, the OEM setup has the map sensor going underneath the throttle body, well mine is welded up and I currently have it going to 1 of the ports on the UIM

- Where it says boost gauge, there are two nipples of the UIM and those have been welded up

- Oil filler vac is going infront of the UIM

- On the other vac of the front of UIM I have a vac line that runs to the BOV and Boost gauge

- I have A which the Solenoid valve but the vac port on it open

- I have the two vac lines for oil injector nipple running to the turbo inlet

- I don’t have the vac line that is above J

- Everything on my turbo y pipe is welded up.



Questions that I have
- Is it ok for me to have the maps sensor vac at the current location?

- Is my current BOV setup ok?

- Do I really need the A solenoid valve vac lines?

I welcome any feedback or recommendation

 

wow, that really is a hack job.....

The current BOV valve location will work, but you normally would want it in either the stock location or near the intercooler so it's easier to relieve the pressure. If you still have the stock valve, I'd put it back in the stock location.

For the boost gauge, you want to run it's own separate dedicated line so you get accurate readings, not tapped into something else.

Map sensor is fine in current location, it seems in your diagram it's just on a different nipple on the UIM. Also, make sure you have that filter too.

for future reference, green usually means good, red means bad...you kinda worked it weird so had to keep reading.

The pressure regulator solenoid (solenoid A) is the solenoid that helps the car during hot starts. You can remove it (as other have, including myself) without issues. You'll just need to the a line from the nipple on the fuel pressure regulator to a nipple on the intake somewhere.

 

The BOV i drew in the pic is the stock bov. I'm unable to put it in the stock location because the previous owner welded up the hole. I was debating on buying a new y pipe but wanted to get ppl thoughts on here first.

ok, i will prob run it to the other nipple on the back side of the UIM where i currently have my map sensor plugged up to.

Map sensor does have the filter.

sorry about that and will do that next time.

thanks I pretty sure i have the vac from the FPR to the vac nipple that says (to fpr solenoid in this pic)

 

Bypass that FPR solenoid and connect the FPR vacuum port directly to that LIM source. Your BOV is fine where it is right now, basically it is the same configuration as the GReddy elbow with BOV.

 

Thanks. What would make the car run so rich at idle?

I've checked for vac leak on these items
- intercooler
- intake tube to throttle body
- UIM
- LIM
- Intake Y pipe

Map sensor and FPR vac hoses are hooked up.

I do have a 3 Inch DP and 3 inch exhaust and airpump is removed. I am on the stock ECU.

I have not changed the 02 sensor but thinking i could test the voltage on it this wknd.

 

It can be many things, what's your idle like?

 

i wanna say around 800-1000 rpms...

 

Define "rich"...

 

Idiling at 10.0 on an AEM wideband and smoking out of the tail pipe

 

Still running the stock ECU?

mazda tuned it to run rich from the factory.....

 

Stock ecu, full exhaust, and no airpump is going to cause an issue. The stock ecu looks for most of the solenoids and sensors. If stuff is just removed without putting resistors in place to trick the ecu, it can easily put the car in limp mode.Do you have a check engine light? I would strongly suggest getting a power fc or other standalone computer.

 

Stock ecu

Solenoids have resistors on them and no check engine light is on.

Not sure if u are represented IR P at DGRR but I was the guy that proposal at the ceremony. I'm helping pay for the wedding so if u could hook me up with a pfc I might consider it. :-)

Vid of it idling. Notice the smoke as I rev it up.

 

wow, that sounds REALLY BAD! I have never heard something like that. it's like audible knock without even using headphones.

something is definitely wrong here. we need more info.

it honestly sounds like you're running on 1 rotor.

 

Not sure what else to tell ya. Did a compression test when I first got and it showed 100 on the front and 90 in the rear on a cold engine.
When I first got it, it had a exhaust leak at the turbo and manifold and intake leak at the LIM so I pulled the engine and changed those.

 

we're gonna need some of the gurus to chime in here.

 

That motor seriously sounds blown. Research doing a compression test, you aren't looking for total PSI, but good even bounces.

Could, in theory, be something with the ignition system - wires not hooked up right, coils not hooked up right, etc. But, get a fresh compression test and see if you're getting 3 bounces per rotor.

BTW, congrats on the proposal - that brought the house down!

Dale

 

Thxs. Forgot I had a pic of the compression test.

 

That doesn't look good, 2 of your rotor face has low compression.

I have the same compression tester, you want the graph to look similiar to this.

 

Hi yea I saw that. You rigged the raffle! Corny but a well thought out proposal Yes I own IRP. Honestly, that motor sounds blown from the video or it has a severe misfire. Also supported by the fact that it seems to rev slowly. Two of the faces look pretty low according to your compression test so I suspect you have a cracked or chipped apex seal. Unfortunately a lot of times people buy these cars an they are improperly set up, and then the new owner has to deal with it. I suspect the car was overboosted by the previous owner because the stock computer was never designed to run the turbos parallel and it has a full exhaust. I would park the car and work on it slowly as funds and time permit. At the very least it is going to need a power fc. I have a good used one if you want to shoot me a pm. As far as the motor, best thing is to pull it and see whats up, then make a game plan to rebuild it.

 

i find it surprising that people in this thread watch a video of an FD running on 1 rotor and assume it is severely knocking (at idle) and blown up. i have extensive experience chipping apex seals, and that video shows nothing more than a 2rotor engine running on 1 rotor.

also, johnny, i find it strange that i live 5 miles from where your car is, and you prefer to make a thread on rx7club asking a bunch of questions that i could answer for you in about 15 seconds. why not just ask me?

also, as for trying to get a free PFC out of Ihor for getting engaged at DGRR: you seem to think that plugging in a PFC will magically make your rear leading spark plug fire or rear primary injector fire (it's one of these two things).

when i assisted you with this car two weeks ago (when you drove it down the street and back) it was running on two rotors and it was running super rich (like 9's AFRs) at idle, but running on two rotors well enough for you to smoothly drive it up and down the street. this is a separate issue from the car running on one rotor, but it was running so damn rich (i'm surprised it even started and ran) that it probably fouled out one of the leading spark plugs.

1. get the car firing on both rotors. it doesn't have a chipped apex seal. a car with a chipped apex seal will run on 1.33 rotors and be very rough, and a car with all 3 apex seals chipped (very unlikely in your case) will run only on one rotor. judging by the amount of fuel coming out of the exhaust, one of the leading spark plugs is not firing.

2. ok so AFTER you get it running on both rotors, verify that the vacuum/boost source for that FPR isn't blocked. what the car was doing a week ago is exactly how a car will act when the fuel pressure is too high.

3. all the stuff you're asking about (in relation to that diagram with the stuff colored strangely) doesn't really matter. the fuel pressure solenoid isnt really necessary because it's only for hot starts (IIRC this just raises fuel pressure when the fuel temp is over a certain *F). the BOV is in a strange place, but it doesn't matter. the oil injectors are fine. the wastegate is hooked straight to a boost source so it's fine. your FPR is going straight to the middle port on the inside of the LIM, which is fine. the fuel pressure may be too high, so this vac source needs to be checked with the engine running, which you can do in about 2 minutes.

 

^ not going to get into personal stuff with u on here since i can just txt u, email, call u, or stop by ur house :-)

good info, i will check on the plugs and wires.

As for the FPR vac - it should be good to go because thats the new vac line you an Paul installed. Not sure what you mean by Vac source because it comes from the LIM to the FPR.

Appreciate you chiming in and will hit you up via text.

 

Power fc won't fix a bad motor but the car badly needs one or the same thing will happen all over again.

 

Get a cheap spark tester and verify spark on all 4 wires. Still, unless you botched the test compression numbers don't lie.

 

Didn't notice this before but is your boost gauge really reading near 0 at idle? Did you go through the de-flood procedure before the compression test?

 

make sure the fuel temp plug is plugged into the fuel rail and not the back of the water pump housing. They can easily be switched. I say this because a friends was acting pretty much the same as yours and it ended up just being those plugs being swapped. He was reading a steady 10 for his afr as is the gauge only knew one number. Also, make sure youre omp is fine. I say that because when I was troubles shooting my non-seq car with an omp delete and stock ecu, I was getting similar results as you. I put my pfc in and poof....."fixed"

also, for my nonseq set up, I dont have the fpr solenoid or the yellow line from the bottom of the y pipe. Your y pipe is all welded so neither do you I assume.

/all I have