I have noticed several people on the forum talking about the H20 cleaning and decided to try it. Note: I used one liter instead of 2. I popped off a vac hose off the Throttle Body then had my girlfriend rev to 4k. I inserted the hose into the water and I really did not like how the engine sounded so I told her to rev to 6K and keep it there. When it starts sucking water the rev's dip down a little bit. The engine sucked down the water kinda quickly. I was very surprised. After it had sucked down all the water I put the hose back on and left the car running. About 5-10 minutes later I took it for a test drive. Note: I went for a test drive before the treatment so I could compare. The after treatment was awesome. My engine is stock, with stock turbos. I do have alot of mods including a Twin Power.

The after treatment ride pulled alot harder and the turbos felt smoother. One important thing I noticed was I used to have a very rough idle after I started my car. The idle immediatly after start is very smooth now. By the way while running around I ran across this Pontiac Firebird ram-air. He attempted to race and it was a good run up until about 40 and then I just walked right by him and ended up about 6-7 car lengths at 130.

My car has 82K with stock motor and turbos.

Chris

 

Do you have a link to a site that tells you exactly how to do the H20 cleaning? I know how to do the ATF trick to clean out carbon, but not the H20 trick. My engine doesn't need to be cleaned out becuse it is brand new (0 miles), but a few FD guys I know coud use a trick like that to smooth out their idle and acceleration. Thanks!
- Kevin (KEMRX7@aol.com)

 

i would like to try 400ml.. Im just scared my rear bumper will melt

 

I guess that is something important to point out. Someone had his bumper melt by doing this.

It really easy. Use one liter of normal tap water. Pull off a vac hose off the throttle body and insert into the water. I would suggest reving the engine to 6K rpm's. When you insert the vac line in the water the engine will bogg down alittle. Apply a little more throttle to compensate. A friend of mine is going to try tomorrow. He is going to put a piece of sheet metal between the bumper and the muffler.

I think the guy who's bumper melted had a stock cat and a stock muffler.

I have a downpipe, midpipe and power extreme exhaust. I did not have any problems. I did notice a steam like stuff coming out of the exhaust.

I think the original person the suggested using H20 was the guy who owns pineapple racing.

Chris

 

Thanks for the step-by-step....Will that work on an FC also, or just 3d gens? Also, why does the exhaust get so hot when you burn off the water?
- Kevin(KEMRX7@aol.com)

 

It'll work on an FC. The exhaust gets hot since the steam triggers the O2 sensor to detect more oxygen in the exhaust, and it thereby richens the mix. WHY this makes it hotter and not colder, i don't know. Something to do with the rich combustion in the exhaust? Ah well.
~Tom

 

I'm confused, if your reving the motor to 6,000 rpms, then why is the O2 sensor adjusting the mixture? I thought the O2 sensor was only active until 3200rpm. Is this right?

eric

 

Would it happen to be any vac hose leading to the throttle body? I would like to do the test to my car as soon as it gets repaired. Are there any illeffects aside from the rear bumper melting (like giving the car too much water causing some sort of engine lock or malfunction, or if the car has +60k miles, would it wear it down faster?), causing me to buy an aftermarket rear I just want to make sure this test wont end up making me replace the engine. Thanks!

 

My car has 82K, I used one liter of H2O, I do not think it matters which hose you pull on the throttle body as long as it has vac. My understanding to make the water combust was heat and pressure. This is one of the reasons I rev'ed up to 6k. The lower you are reved the greater effect it seems to have on the engine. My bumper and paint are still stock. If you are worried about melting you bumper put something between the exhaust and the top of the bumper like wood. With my power extreme and no cats I had no problems and when I was reved at 6k the exhaust wasn't even close to the bumper. The Power extreme did not even get hot in my case. I think the guy with the fire has stock stuff including the muffler.

Note: After a week of driving I have noticed a big difference. The car is alot smoother in acceleration and startups. I also noticed a reduction in J&S knock. Not sure why but usually on a cold morning I would get one or two lights under WOT. Now I don't get any.

Chris

 

Well, it's always ACTIVE, but the computer only adjusts fuel mixture on light loads *or* under 3200 RPM. You're in neutral, so that's a very light load. If you have an A/F meter, notice that once you're cruising at light throttle (above 3200rpm), the lights will still bounce back and forth. That means the computer is adjusting the mixture.
~Tom

 

sound interesting

 

Have you ever seen any flames shooting out the tailpipe from a backfire? That's caused by an overly rich mixture. Not enough air for the amount of gasoline. You'll end up with gas still in the exhaust mixture that continues to combust all the way out your tailpipe - thus a flame. Doing this water trick puts virtually no load on the engine so it's sucking in very small amounts of air for the combustion process but dumping in gobs of fuel. That fuel will continue to combust out the muffler. Typically, spent exhaust has little or no gas left in it so the it's entire path out the exhaust system has a cooling effect on the exhaust gases. But if it continues to combust on the way out, there is no cooling of the exhaust or the cooling effect is reduced significantly. Someone with a chemistry or science background can probably better explain this better than I can.

 

Put metal. Don't put dry wood unless you want to start a campfire on your bumper.

 

I got the smores!

 

Which is more effective -- H2o or ATF?

 

you guys have a lot of this wrong. first off the reason you may melt your bumper is the same reason it hurts more to put your hand in 300deg water then into a 300 deg oven. The density of the water is higher and the energy in the heat of the vapor coming ont your exhaust is greater then the energy of the ait that normally come out of it.

Now for the real reason this works so well... What you are doing is steam cleaning the inside of your engine. Water vapor works well as a release agent to get the carbon off your rotor.
The reason the car runs so much better is TIMING. With the carbon deposited on your rotor. Knock and preignition is more likely.
With the carbon removed, you get less knock and the computer doesn't pull out your timing.


I run water injection in my 400HP DSM. In this case the water sprays out like a fog into the intake it starts when my boost hits 7 psi. The water mixed with the air effectively raises the octane rating by slowing the burn rate down. This allows me to run more boost on street gas and still have no knock, thereby keeping the timing high.
As a side plus of running water injection... I get no carbon buildups.


Your O2 sensor has nothing to do with the heat that is created.
it is the same heat as always just the water doesn't cool as fast as the air so you have more heat actually coming out the exhaust.

hope this helps

 

What can happen...

https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=38861