GUNK IN OIL PAN 1000 Miles.
12-07-10, 06:56 PM
#1
GUNK IN OIL PAN 1000 Miles.
OK about 6 months ago I resealed my oil pan and installed my oil pan brace. While my pan was down I cleaned all debris and oil residue from inside pan and bottom on engine. Since the oil pan reseal i have only put on about 1000 Miles on the car so i felt no need to replace my oil. Today i drain my oil and it was charcoal black and found gunky debris on the tip of the magnetic oil drain plug. What can cause this if i only drove the car for about 1000 miles (weekends) . I used valvoline VR-1 20-50
12-07-10, 09:20 PM
#7
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No, that stuff is junk. If you want to run synthetic, use Amsoil, Mobil 1 EP, or Valvoline Synpower
How many miles on the engine? Quite common to see significant wear metals associated with break-in, get an oil analysis done.
My experience is 20w-50 is still too low viscosity for these motors because of extreme thinning associated with fuel dilution.
How many miles on the engine? Quite common to see significant wear metals associated with break-in, get an oil analysis done.
My experience is 20w-50 is still too low viscosity for these motors because of extreme thinning associated with fuel dilution.
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12-08-10, 07:48 AM
#10
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
In aircraft turbine engines that is called paste. It is considered as normal wear.
Most people don't run magnetic drain plugs so they never experience this.
It is from the rubbing surfaces... side seals, corner seals, and rotor oil seals sliding on the side plates. They, plus the rotor gears continually polish each other.
Synthetic might slow the process. Why not try some next oil change and report back?
What is best for wear surfaces is not always best for burning in the combustion section as your ashless Valvoline VR1 oil is.
Barry
Most people don't run magnetic drain plugs so they never experience this.
It is from the rubbing surfaces... side seals, corner seals, and rotor oil seals sliding on the side plates. They, plus the rotor gears continually polish each other.
Synthetic might slow the process. Why not try some next oil change and report back?
What is best for wear surfaces is not always best for burning in the combustion section as your ashless Valvoline VR1 oil is.
Barry
12-08-10, 08:15 AM
#11
In addition to the metal, new hard seals that haven't completely bedded might also explain an unusually dark color for 1k miles.
If you installed the magnetic drain plug with the rest of the rebuild, some of that metal might have been stranded in the coolers and lines previously and is just now being caught.
If you installed the magnetic drain plug with the rest of the rebuild, some of that metal might have been stranded in the coolers and lines previously and is just now being caught.
12-08-10, 09:03 AM
#13
The engine is not a rebuild, it was a new engine from Mazda installed in 2002, I don't know the real milage but I would probably say it's around 30k or so. Compression is 100psi on each rotor, motor fires up in just one crank, The car was an automatic and I converted it to manual.
Do you guys think the VR-1 oil I have been using is the Part of the problem?
Do you guys think the VR-1 oil I have been using is the Part of the problem?
12-08-10, 09:57 AM
#14
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No. These engines tend to have high wear metals across the board, although when I switched to straight weight SAE 50 wear metals dropped significantly (as well as copper and lead). Synthetics definitely can't hurt (unless you're running carbon seal turbos), but I believe the best policy is to run a thick straight weight and change at 2k miles maximum. ALL of these engines (when driven hard on the boost) have fuel dilution which contaminates/thins the oil.
12-08-10, 04:00 PM
#15
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
What mine looks like.
Collecting this fine metal before it goes through the oil pump is the biggest advantage.
The joke among aircraft mechanics is the boss asking, " Can you make out a part number on any of the chips?" Unfortunately once we had one with numbers!
Barry
Collecting this fine metal before it goes through the oil pump is the biggest advantage.
The joke among aircraft mechanics is the boss asking, " Can you make out a part number on any of the chips?" Unfortunately once we had one with numbers!
Barry
12-08-10, 04:50 PM
#17
The engine is not a rebuild, it was a new engine from Mazda installed in 2002, I don't know the real milage but I would probably say it's around 30k or so. Compression is 100psi on each rotor, motor fires up in just one crank, The car was an automatic and I converted it to manual.
Do you guys think the VR-1 oil I have been using is the Part of the problem?
Do you guys think the VR-1 oil I have been using is the Part of the problem?
Or run cheap oil (meaning normal valvoline etc) and change it twice or 3x in a 1500 mile period and see what it looks like then.
Oil is cheap and easy to do.
12-08-10, 07:13 PM
#21
Is this the same vehicle that is in the "shredded turbo" posting? https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/turbo-shredded-lock-nut-928653/
If so, might there be a connection?
If so, might there be a connection?
12-09-10, 05:28 AM
#23
Is this the same vehicle that is in the "shredded turbo" posting? https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=928653
If so, might there be a connection?
If so, might there be a connection?
12-09-10, 05:56 AM
#24
Its possible but That turbo thing was a one day ordeal,Same day of the turbo damage the car was never driven again,The gunk in the pan seems to be from mileage i guess. I am going to flush and clean everything out then do 3 oil changes on every 500 miles to see what happens
12-09-10, 11:10 AM
#25
also depends how you cleaned the oil pan mating surface. if you wire wheeled it or sanded it with a DA then that metal all goes down into the pan and is nearly impossible to clean out and will just disappear after a few oil changes.
the turbo failure probably also dumped some metal into the pan which can hide in the baffle plates.
the turbo failure probably also dumped some metal into the pan which can hide in the baffle plates.
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