hillbilly pony

with no port work how much HP is possible...and boost level...on a good pump gass tune

I know there is alot of variables but a attainable ball park figure..

Thanks
Justin

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

The sky is the limit...
How deep are your pockets?

hillbilly pony

wow...figured the port work had alot to do with it. so if a guy was looking for 500-600 at the rear tire..

turbo size?

management system?

injectors??

what would be the suggestion.

build will be street legal...power everything etc. pump gas?

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

there are threads about how much you can make on just stock turbos. That number goes in and around 375-400 bhp. This is of course with bolt ons (exhaust, down pipe etc..) and usually a street port. i don't see any reason you shouldn't be able to reach 300 ish bhp. This number could go up quite a bit if you got a midpipe and down pipe to eliminate the restrictive cats.

hillbilly pony

im looking at doing a single turbo conversion...just looking for some guidance on the engine management etc tha will allow me safely to 500-600 at the tire...stock turbos are gone

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

If this is what you're wanting to make, you will need single turbo for sure. As for size.. I'm not actually sure but it will be pretty big. Everyone uses the Apex'i power FC as you will find. Injectors yes, rotaries can't be run lean. Pump gas ONLY if your tune is with pump gas. Otherwise you'll blow it up.

All I can say is research research research. Set your goals before you start and shoot for that.

hillbilly pony

so a stock ECU with a piggy back is good to that number...that would be nice. thinking a 67mm turbo with associated tubing and such...

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

Another suggestion is to find someones build thread who has something similar to what you're looking for. Obviously you won't want to be doing things EXACTLY the same but just use it as a guide. That being said, make a build thread for yourself with lot's of pictures. Everyone appreciates it

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

I use a Haltech but thanks for answering for everyone.

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

OP this should help you
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...38&postcount=6

.:FoRuM56:.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7C7hM...37A3CD50C7FEC2

I suck at embedding, but that looks like a pretty good number from a stock block.

hillbilly pony

would love to see a MOD list for that car...

180SXslider

iTrader: (4)

Here is a mod list for ya....

Parts:

Delrin Bushing kit $550
Tokico Adustables $450
Hawk HP pads $125
Russell braided brake lines $125
PowerSlot rotors $400
Walbro fuel pump $100
Pettit Front bumper $600
Thermostat (Pettit) $15
Border FMIC and Griffin Radiator (FCNARed) $1200
Front hubs/bearings and ARP studs $175
Lug nuts $50
Greddy BOV (855m0n0) $85
Headlight cover (Boniface) $125
Intake gaskets (Boniface) $55
Power FC and Commander (Ramy at FDNewbie) $900
Mazda OEM hardware (nuts, bolts, lines, boots, caliper rebuild kit)(Boniface) $262
CJ Motorsports ultimate fuel kit (rx7store) $1,050
NGK #9 spark plugs for breaking in (rx7store) $40
Greddy T78 kit (new turbo)(redrocket1) $2,250
Banzai Racing motor mounts $125
Banzai Racing Oil Pan Brace $120
Banzai Racing OMP elimination kit $20
HKS Hi-Power Catback exhaust (SP-Engineering) $350
Mocal 25-row Dual oil cooler kit $1,043 ($548.74 from RPW and $494.26 from Comprent)
Mazda OEM Fuel lines and Filter (Boniface) $332
Mazdatrix parts $350
Clutch master cyl and line (Pettit) $118
Mazdatrix Pilot removal tool, gasket, bolts $144
Mazda OEM brake line, clutch line, etc (Boniface) $167
Exedy Twin-Disk Cerametallic clutch kit (RX7Store) $1,590
Re-Speed Oil filler neck $100
Mazdatrix Automatic Counterweight $125
Pettit Racing Power Pulley (main) $263.94
IRP 90-140amp Alternator upgrade and rebuild $225
NGK Racing Cables (IRP) $75
Mazmart Re-Medy Water Pump (MattGold) $250
Fast Reacting IAT Sensor and PnP harness (wannaspeed.com) $58
HKS Twin Power Ignition w/ PnP Harness (supranak) $335
Rear Subframe (aicrotary) $140
Rear Suspension Hardware and fuel line hardware $495.74
SuperPro steering rack Bushings (autoRnD) $45
3M Rubberized Undercoating (advanced auto parts) $40
Tranny brace Powdercoated Pitch Black (Accurate) $40
2x Bosch 044 fuel pumps, 12 ft -6 line, fittings (rx7Store) $585.50
Mazda OEM front suspension hardware, rear wheels bearings, etc (Boniface) $280.29

Yet I still need...

-Apexi 3 bar map sensor
-Knock sensor
-Alky/meth injection kit
-Pettit Trak Pro coilovers
-FC Datalogit




And to answer your question about the Power FC from Apex'i. This gets new RX7 guys confused all the time. IT IS NOT A PIGGYBACK. It COMPLETELY replaces the stock engine management system and a FULL standalone system is essential to any highly tuned sports car. The ONLY exception is when a professional engine builder tunes an ECU to your EXACT needs. Then you DO NOT MESS WITH IT. Go to any SCCA or IMSA Pro Race. All of the higher hp cars are tuned on an engine dyno. Data is saved and only a few adjustments can be made. If you try to mess with the tune and you DO NOT know what is going on, then buy a couple extra engines.

-Brandon
(VooDoo Daddy)

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

why do you feel you need 5-600hp? are you going drag racing?

you do realize to make this power level you're going to have a turbo of quite a large size.....which means lag lag lag.

180SXslider

iTrader: (4)

Have you really owned a large turbo? The lag really isn't that bad considering it'll blow the doors off of anything that poses a threat. It doesn't matter what track and which street. I have owned and driven some NICE single turbo setups and the ride is actually quite nice.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

It does't matter how much power you make if you can't use it where you drive. He wants street legal.

I would say aim for the 400's.

But my opinion is unless you are drag racing, a broader usable powerband is MUCH better than a high hp peaky powerband. If you are going to spend 95 of you time at the drag strip go for peak. If you want to have a car that is fun on a course, or in the twisties... go for a more usable powerband. THe main question is what is the car REALLY going to be used for. Not the pipe dream "I want to set a record for most cupcakes eaten while going 220mph" But where are the tires going to meet the road?

hillbilly pony

i stand corrected about the PowerFC. That does make sence though that is costs 1000 plus. its like Big Stuff 3 for the V8 world. good that it is that adjustable. this will be a drag car that gets some street play from time to time. not a daily driver...just one with the bells and whistles. ive owned a couple of FD's but im coming off of a 700hp mustang that i built only for the strip and hated that fact...i need to mess with corvettes...lol. there is some money available due to selling my race car...so your guys input is awesome...

justin

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

your post is indicative that you have never driven a rotary with a massive turbo before.
the drivability of a piston engine with a big turbo is NOT the same.

remember, the bigger the turbo, the less torque you make per hp gained.
believe me, you'll want to kill yourself with how far away the powerband is.


an FD with 450hp is quite a big number for the street given how light the car is.


the most common and IMO the ideal street/drag turbo is a large 35R, preferably 1.0 or higher a/r turbine. power potential is in the mid 500's to 600ish on 25+psi.


search around. theres a fellow with a stock port REW(it was rebuilt and had some choice internal mods, but no port flow mods) running in an RX-3 i believe.... made 700ish hp at like 34psi, cant remember how much torque, but it wasnt much. and its an all out drag car

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

Why are posts like this not closed right when they are opened?

Believe it or not, this topic has been covered once or twice in the last decade....Try the search button.

But the short answer is port has little effect on power. If you want more power, bigger turbo and more boost. Simple.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

how FAST do you want to go with your car? The PFC despite how simple and user friendly it is, is an outdated ecu. If you're going to buy one new, then spend the extra money on a more modern ecu such as a haltech.
If you wanna hit 10s, tons of suspension work, great tires (26x10.5x16 MT ET streets on the stock FD wheels is a fantastic combo), 500ish hp, and plenty of seat time will get you there easily, it might even be enough for high 9s. A local owner ran an 11.3 or 11.4 with 401 whp on a dynojet, just for reference.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I've never heard of a 35R hitting anywhere near 600 rwhp. I don't think the hotside can support it.

Sounds like the OP wants my setup..... damn near 500 rwhp on pump gas with water injection.

Who is doing the work? Bring the car up to my shop and we'll help you to spend that race car money

hillbilly pony

Nice!! something like that is ideal...

im a pretty solid wrench turner. i built my 9 second mustang by hand...you know how it feels to see your own work. i would be appreciative of any guidance though..

hillbilly pony

Im definitely looking to be in the 9's. im just starting the thought process of the build...info gathering you know...definitely not on board with the power to weight to ET of these cars...it looks like that its a far cry from the ole V8 boys. it takes 500 ish to go 10.50's

hillbilly pony

Posts like this arent closed because when you go to the search engine on forums like this one...Yellowbullet...NMRA Racing etc. and type in Turbo...Injector...coilover...Methanol...you get 10,000 hits with every thread that on page 29 someone has injector in their signature....its a BS way for serious people to have to look info unless someone just happened to type the exact topic your looking for in the thread title...

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

some people just feel like helping others instead of being a dick and telling them to search.

you need to remember, we have sufficiently lower drag than some of those domestics, coupled with lower weight makes these cars significantly easier to cut through the air and click off the low times. I think an a-spec 500r like what goodfella has is gonna get you damn close, IIRC he hit 500 at roughly 20psi, so that turbo still has room to grow. If you really feel like cranking it up, get a 67mm turbo with a billet compressor wheel for that little bit of extra flow (and a cooler look that will make all the hondas jealous). I'm anxious to see what I can do with a 6265, but I think the 6765 or 6768 is gonna be what your after (from precision's line anyways)