My RX-7 does...


Rotary Extreme's dual 34 row kit. Hopefully its completely unneccesary (even though its 106F outside right now) but damn they look good! LOL!

 

those are TOO big...


are u going to use ducts?

 

What front bumper will you be using with those?

 

Them's big, I've got Chuck's dual 25-row kit. Those monsters almost make my coolers look small...

If nothing else, you've added significantly to the oil capacity of the lubricating system.

 

HOLY ****! that thing is huge. i'll be happy with the RE 25 row.

 

Great product you've got!

BTW, what are the wheels in your sig? Size?

 

I'll be fabbing some ducts later if need be. I'm going to test it out first. I have an oil tenp gauge to keep an eye on the festivities.

Stock bumper. From what I've read they're still effective as long as you have an opening thats 1/3rd of the frontal are of the coolers. OK...I might be pushing that a little but they actually hang down so far they pick up air from the opening's in the R1 lip too. <eek>

Wheels are ZE Forged Hi octanes. 18x9 up front and 18x10 in the back with custom offsets .

 

What's the point with the stock bumper and small openings? Maybe if you had a C-West, GTC or 99 spec bumper I could see the point. For now it's extra weight and power loss.
Looks nice though.

 

My, my, that's a lot of oil. It sure can't hurt though. I hope those things have drain plugs - if not, I'd put a drain valve in the oil return lines or else you oil changes will be much tougher.

Dave

 

Holy Mother of God! I think that's overkill you have there... but sometimes overkill is fun.

Careful with them hanging so low! Smacking an oil cooler on the ground and having your oil dump out sucks... trust me I know.

Ducting is very important. Without ducting they're not really going to cool any better than the stock twin oil coolers.

 

Ducting is pretty much irrelevant when the coolers are that big. I get the same oil temps with my unducted 25-row RE cooler setup as people get with the CWC 19-row setup with the fancy C/F ducts, in street or track driving.

Agreed, I didn't know that the 34-row coolers required a lower mounting height than the 25-row kit. However, this is a better situation to me than the CWC kit, which has the AN fittings very low to the ground....

No drain plugs in Earl's coolers. Other than having more older oil in the system, I'm not sure why oil changes would be made more difficult.

 

Yeah...um. These things work. Too well actually. I shot Chuck at RE this email:

"Hey Chuck! The dual 34 row is installed. I’m a little concerned about oil temps being too low. I know…I know…you guys are never happy! LOL! Anyway all temps are measured at the oil filter pedestal with an Autometer gauge. The sensor body is even grounded to the gauge so it’s as accurate as it gets. I cranked it up last night and idled for quite a while. Temps came up to 145F pretty quick until the T-Stat opened then hung at 164F for a long time until the coolers started to (finally) get heat soaked. I managed to get it up to 195F just sitting there. As soon as I started driving temps shot down to 170F in less than ¾ mile then started creeping down from there…ending up at 150-155F while driving around in 87F ambient temps. This morning it warmed up to 140-145F pretty quick (the t-stat was definitely closed on initial start) then it was hanging out at 145-150F all 10 miles on the way to work. 77F ambient temps. I romped on it once (0-60 mph) and may have got it up to 155F then it dropped back down immediately.

The question is…does this jive with what you’ve seen? I thought the Mocal was a 80C/176F T-stat? The only thing I’m concerned with really is burning off contaminants in the oil. I’ve always heard that you should at least shoot for 165-170F oil temps minimum. My oil pressure is a little high also but that’s nice to see for once with thin 10w-30…no biggie.

I just want to make sure my T-stat isn’t faulty. If this matches what you’ve seen I’ll probably just shorten my oil change interval to 2k miles to keep the contaminants from building up.

The real test will come later today…weather.com says it’s going to be 108F later. I doubt it’s even going to break a sweat…I’ll be surprised if I see 165F. <grin>"

Anybody have any input on their temps with Mocal stats? I know you can order them with custom temps...maybe I got a 145F stat. I don't know why anyone would ever need a 145F stat though...that's just too cold. Another thing that I've dragged up while searching is that there is supposidly some flow thru the coolers at all times...a very small amount from what I understand. Maybe with these coolers that very small amount is enough to keep the temps rediculously low. Heck...I don't know.

 

Trevor, your results are consistent with mine with the 25-rows....I have the same Mocal t-stat and on the freeway, the oil temps are below 170F.... Mine don't run quite as cold as yours does but similar. The most I've ever seen in street driving was 200F when I got stuck in an hour-long traffic jam on a 90F day. They cooled right back down to 170-ish once I started moving again.

As noted, the dual 34-row is overkill for street driving. In all seriousness, you might want to replug the passenger side opening with the stock plastic blocking plate. You will certainly want to do so when the ambient temps drop. That way, you can have reasonable oil temps on the street and then remove the plate for track use.

 

Oh good...so my thermostat probably isn't bad. I really didn't feel like changing it after working in my hot garage all weekend. I'm definitely concerned. If temps don't hit at least 165-170F there's no way you're going to burn off contaminants...and we all know how quickly rotaries trash oil.

Good idea with replugging the passenger side...I might do that.

 

Trevor,

Did you notice any change in water temp? New wheels look good BTW

Scott

 

I've got the CWR kit with the ~180F Mocal thermostat (same oilstat as yours) and my temps also run well under the oilstat set temp in cruising. 140F is typical for highway cruising at night. But it heats up if you are just putzing around town, sitting and idling, or getting frisky with the throttle/revs.

-Max

 

I put a Koyo & a new Mazda t-stat in at the same time with 12.5% antifreeze - distilled- water wetter combo. Water temps were 185-190F at the T-stat outlet on the way to work this morning (77F ambient). Not all that impressive. I was surprized that the low oil temps were not dragging the coolant temps down further.

 

Thanks for posting Max. That makes me feel better.

With the A/C on full blast and city driving oil got up to 181-196F just now. 100F ambient. Water temp was sitting right at 228F. Before you freak out with the A/C off while idling my regular fan didn't come on until an indicated 231F...so it looks like my gauge reads 10F higher than the computer's reading. So coolant temp was probably more like 218F just now and 175-180F on the way to work this morning. The 218F stinks...of course when I put the Power FC in I'll use the Datalogit to lower the "fan on" speeds.

I'm still burping the system though...so hopefully I can bring it down some more.

 

I sort of thought the point of getting a massive oil cooler was so that you could get by with just one instead of adding the weight and plumbing for two...

I have the Crooked Willow Mocal 19- or 25-row (?) cooler, but haven't installed it yet. Is there any reason, besides draining, that you'd want to mount it with the fittings pointing down? I can't even remember how the stock oil cooler was configured at this point.

 

That's a better way of saying it

 

The stock coolers are configured so the fittings point down, so are the CWC coolers. I personally think it's a bad idea to have those AN elbow fittings hanging down so low (the stock fittings are lower profile and seem less prone to damage), which is one of the reasons I went with Rotary Extreme's kit instead of the CWC. That and the front block fitting....

 

I still have one measly stock oil cooler with lots of bent fins. The question is how much do these shiny new larger oil coolers bring down coolant temps? Max? Rynberg?

I figured a couple of those 25 row let alone Trevor's biggies would drop temps pretty seriously?

Not so?

 

I think my water temps dropped about 5 degrees, although it's more of noticing that the water temps take longer to reach the same temp, especially at the track.

As I have posted before, my oil temps pretty much dropped 30-40 degrees, in street and track driving, in going from the single stock cooler to Chuck's dual 25-row. The stock dual coolers typically cool about 10-15 deg cooler than a single stock cooler.

Two coolers cool better than a single big one, especially with the stock bumper's small openings.

 

Unless you are road racing, the stock oil coolers are adequate.

 

TC,
It just makes the whole system more efficient. Beyond just a "lowering" of temps (which it does do) is more consistency. I don't see the imediate raise in water temps as soon as I stop at a light like I used to... no more wild fluctuation.

Ultimately, the demand on either your water or oil cooling system may never be tested in street driving, even in DC heat/humidity if you have a properly functioning system, but you will see more steady temps, and if you DO decide to test it, as in on the track, there's a definate benefit over the stock stuff.