KillerRX-7

My check engine light kept comin on, so i did the diagnosis test and i got a 16 -- EGR Valve. I have a few questions. Is it hard to replace it? Can i drive the car the way it is? can i push the car the way it is? Do i have anything to worry about, or should i replace it ASAP??

MaxRX7

it is hard to replace in the sense that you have to take the intake manifold off to get a good reach.

you can keep on driving.

you don't have to replace ASAP, but you should.
you can even block it off with a plate and save money, if you have no emissions (cat. caonverters).

twinturboteddy

You can drive the car it is, not much of a problem. Won't cause any harm really, just bad emissions. Replacing it is not too hard.

To get to it, you have to remove your y-pipe.

To remove your y-pipe you have to remove your intake system, including the secondary hard pipe.

To remove that stuff, you have to have already replaced your stock pre-cat with a downpipe. If you have your pre-cat still, it's going to be a big PITA.

I'm not shitting you. I know it sounds silly, to remove the pre-cat to remove a stupid EGR valve, but from a person who's been up and through the car several times, I'm serious.

twinturboteddy

No manifolds need to be removed, MaxRX7

MaxRX7

yeah I got confused with the FC
listen to TTT

KillerRX-7

Thanks for the responses TTT. I have another question i forgot to ask. My car been ideling like **** ever since the CE light came on. It jumps around from 400-900, 500-900, 700-900,....etc,.. could this have anithing to do wit the EGR valve, or it's probly something else, like a vacuum hose or some ****? it really annoys me to see my car ideling like that. thanks

KillerRX-7

Anyone?????

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

why dont you check the code?

mike

spooledUP7

My EGR cure

My EGR cure working

Here are some links which I have had a hand or two in. There are some that suggest the use of a resistor to fool the ECU. I have not seen it work or fail, but I have heard of both.

Another note, I did a search on "EGR" and pulled up 3 pages on the subject. This search engine rules!

paw140

Wait a minute... why do you have to remove the precat to get to the EGR? I just had all this stuff apart, and you only have to remove the intake hoses and y-pipe. You shouldn't have to touch the precat. You also don't have to remove any manifolds.

I also have the code 16 check engine light. I've just been driving it like that, and haven't noticed any problems. Some day I'll fix it to get rid of that stupid light. Most people suggest disabling it or blocking it off, but on California models you have to do something about the egr position sensor so the CEL doesn't go off. Someone just did it using a 12 volt relay. Do a search for this, its a pretty good thread.

xph

I am having the same problem on my 94. To clear up a common misconception stated on the list... All 94's have the electrical connector, not just the Cali models. I dont know about other years. I am finishing my block off plate tonight, it seems that my switch had gone bad. I am going to give the resistor a shot, and hopefully I can get the list a clear answer on if it is suficcent for fooling the ECU.

dlee

Gents.... I tried the resistor and can tell you it does not work. The RELAY fix is the only way to go. Please see the link spooledUP7 posted

xph

Confirmed, the resistor is not the solution... o-well.. I am gonna have to crack open the wallet, the 99cent resistor pack was a waste, and now I'm gonna have to spring the whole 3 bucks for the relay..

paw140

I really want to do the relay fix, but I DON'T want to have to pull the extension manifold just to get to the solenoid...

I'll just let it go for a while, I think, until I get ambitious.

spooledUP7

You could always tap into the ecu harness. If you have a shop manual you can find the pin locations. This would actually be a better setup than in the engine bay since the heat would not be an issue. Just unplug the EGR harness from the EGR and plumb in the relay behind the passenger kick panel.

dlee

Pulling the manifold is not that bad, really. 5-6 bolts, a few connectors that is it. If you take your time and carefully mark the vacuum lines.... piece of cake.