don't get me wrong, boost controller is crucial. But even with it (regardless fuzzy logic or others with independent solenoid), you will still creep on a cold night.

having no cats at all, the car will be running LEAN on a stock ECU... so having a tune-able ECU + a good tune is a must for running full exhaust

 

First of all, with having a mortgage in San Diego, I can’t afford to go out and get a new ecu and tune it for a few months, so should I take off the mid-pipe? And if so, what should I replace it with? A normal cat? Will this prevent me from spiking and saving my motor?

You can also remove the pills in the actuator line,by the front turbo and this will lower the boost. It will still spike but nowhere near a danger level. You can do this until you get a boost controller,(you would have to remove the pills anyway) and a ecu.

When I did mine, I was getting like 6ish to 8-9ish to 6-7ishs boost readings.

Hope this helps.

 

Im with dave on this one..I will pick a boost controller over a map ne day. Boost will kill his motor..sure his map isn't 100% on point but a boost controller will keep his motor longer.

 

I'm sorry, I couldn't let this one go. had to clarify myself... I'm not suggesting him to get a tune right now. I'm suggesting him to put his mid cat back on until he's ready for a tune, then use the straight pipe


YES

 

Porting the wastegate solves that. When I refer to proper boost control, an adjustable controller and wastegate porting are the main things I have in mind.

You can tune all you want, the ECU cannot compensate for the limits of your fuel, injectors, intercooling,... The point is that proper boost control (whether that's a boost controller, ported wastegate, or both) is necessary and if you have it you ecu can whatever you want it to be.

 

LOL I feel sorry for the future of FD's.