rollingsband1

Is it wise or just a waste of cash to rebuild a 13b-rew every 50 or 60K miles? Or should you just wait till it pops then rebuild?? I figured if nothing is broken yet might as well rebuild before it gets to the average time when they blow and replace all new inside?? anyone have thoughts on this?

slo

iTrader: (1)

Regardless of what anyone says they don't catastrophically fail randomly.

Each failure mode has a definitive cause even if it may seem elusive.

Don't rebuild it unless its broken. If you put 60-100k on it and take it apart your going to want to replace rotor housings anyways. Which means if you do have a catastrophic, failure its not going to cost much more then what it would cost to rebuild a still running engine. Used rotors in good shape and used turbo's are cheap and available.

rollingsband1

so pretty much buy new housings and keep them on the side with a rebuild kit for when it does break I have everything to do it.. wether it be 40K or 100K miles on it.. ?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

This whole 'rotaries only last xx thousand miles' is a load of B.S.

An engine can last 100,000 miles, or it can last 10 miles. It all comes down to how the car is setup, and how well it's maintained.

fdeeznutz

Amen to that ^^^

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

A good idea for how to keep the car on the road would be to not wreck it... and don't add mod's without knowing why, or what effect they will have. Make sure any mods you do add are properly supported, don't drive the car in an overheated condition, don't drive it without oil, don't skimp on decent fuel, don't over-boost... The list has been covered time and again, research and don't be a retard with the car. She will only treat you as well as you treat her...

slo

iTrader: (1)

that is my point exactly.

There is a turbo FC near by me thats been making 320 HP since the late 90's, with 240+ K on the chassis and 140XXX on the engine, it still runs real strong, and its not even close to using state of the art engine management, or anything, just old school everything.

0110-M-P

iTrader: (10)

92k running strong

Montego

iTrader: (1)

my first engine lasted to 108K. my second was died at 52k and it only blew because my wastegate line came off so I overboosted to 23 psi. Otherwise I'd say it had another 50k of life.

apexFD

Wow thats awesome, are mods are you running and how do you drive it?



=Ben

DaveDanger1214

Amen to that right there!!!

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

The problem is this:

owners who

(a) don't have the money to mod them properly so they buy cheap/used/junk parts

(b) don't have the knowledge to own/mod/maintain them properly so they take shortcuts and make poor decisions

I've read this before and it rings true.....

The FD does not suffer fools lightly

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Damn those cheap owners who buy second hand Fluidyne radiators from WWII, and Honda Civic intercoolers!

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Let's not forget the -2AN fuel lines

Hey, as long as they're not actually *installed,* it's no harm no foul in my book......

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

the fuel lines weren't my fault, they just came with the fuel rail/injectors that I wanted.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

for the 108K I was 100% stock, the second engine had these mods:

Mild Streetport
M2 CAI
PFS SMIC
DP
MP
RB Duals
Power FC
12 psi controlled via profec B spec 2

I guess I drive it regular. Never afraid to go WOT... and I WOT every chance I got (if it was safe of course). Key is never go lean and keep intake temps low

My current rebuild is with a GT35R which I plan to put at least 100k on it...