Good FD water temp gauge solution
Good FD water temp gauge solution
I didn't trust the stock gauge even after the linearization mod so I came up with a very easy and accurate solution.
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=40076
enjoy
dan
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=40076
enjoy
dan
hummm interesting..... seems like you have to know what your doing to do this.. because id end up breaking something
Last edited by FD3S2005; Dec 20, 2006 at 12:38 AM.
WTF? How is this any different from linearization? You still can't read off an exact temperature. You could just measure your exact temperature when the guage is in the middle after linearizing and you would be in the same boat...
linearization question
thanks guys, the only thing you might break is the big plastic dome but there are several good write ups on how to get to these parts.
alexdimen: To answer your question: There is a definite difference between the linearization mod and changing out to a new gauge mechanism that is calibrated to its new sending unit. In that mod, you use a potentiometer to adjust where you think a certain temperature reading should be. Most intelligent people will see that every angle of the sweep of the needle corresponds to a nearly exact temperature. Just because every single degree isn't written on the gauge face, doesn't mean that you can't figure out what temperature you are looking at. I am sure you will come to that realization. Also, have you ever done the gauge linearization? I have, and I can tell you that there is very little that is exact with that solution (only the one spot that you set). I hope that this explanation helps to answer your question "how is this different....."
Dan
alexdimen: To answer your question: There is a definite difference between the linearization mod and changing out to a new gauge mechanism that is calibrated to its new sending unit. In that mod, you use a potentiometer to adjust where you think a certain temperature reading should be. Most intelligent people will see that every angle of the sweep of the needle corresponds to a nearly exact temperature. Just because every single degree isn't written on the gauge face, doesn't mean that you can't figure out what temperature you are looking at. I am sure you will come to that realization. Also, have you ever done the gauge linearization? I have, and I can tell you that there is very little that is exact with that solution (only the one spot that you set). I hope that this explanation helps to answer your question "how is this different....."
Dan
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Nice - but APC would be the very last company that I would pick to buy a gauge from. I don't think there is a lower quality automotive brand.
That said, the idea is very good. Are you going to fix the pictures - pretty much all of them were broken for me?
That said, the idea is very good. Are you going to fix the pictures - pretty much all of them were broken for me?
I was just interested in when temp rose above 220F. I used a variable pot in parallel with the sender by oil filter, and trimmed till gage rose from norm when 221F fans came on (usually rises at 230-240). Then measured pot resistance, and made up a proper parallel resister. Quite easy.
Is the needle arc the same for the new guage? If it's too long, you might be freaking out unneccessarily when the guage gets to the Hot mark. If it's too short, you might think everything is fine when your engine is cooking itself. Just wondering, pretty cool mod though. Props. I'll be trying it very soon.
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