i juss installed the gt35r turbo kit on my fd....but i only have a front mount intercooler! can i juss get a boost controller to keep my boost at 10psi untill i buy the pfc??? is it safe to drive it like this?

 

.....

It is not safe to run single on a GT35R on a stock ecu.

10psi on a GT35R does not equal to 10 psi on stock twins.

 

Get a PFC ASAP

 

WOW, haha, WOW

 

wat should i keep the boost at? to be safe

 

dont boost at all....

 

wat do i do it so i dont boost at all?

 

Take the valve seat out of the wastegate if you're running a Tial unit, and keep your foot out of the gas. Better yet drive your DD...

 

is that the only not to boost.... till i get the pfc?

 

What are all the mods you have on the car? Why would you do this without knowing what you need to run it properly?

 

i was gonna go single next year but my sequential got mest up..blown turbo seals smoking really bad out the exhaust pippe.....my mods are front mount intercooler and down pippe..i got a deal on the gt35r so im gonna put it in..........but i wanna know if i can drive it with low or no boost untill i get my pfc....wat else should i get done besides the pfc to run it properly?

 

So it went from you just installed it to you haven't even put it in yet? Please don't insult our intelligence.....do you have the turbo kit or not?

 

this sounds like a disaster waiting to happen, just b/c you got a good deal on it doesn't mean you should throw it in without the supporting mods.What went wrong with the sequentials?

 

the turbo is in all i need is to put the down pippe on

 

What boost level is the wastegate set for?

 

Sell your rx7 to me.

 

the sequentials blew the oil seals.....massive amout of smoke comming out the tail pippe...

 

GT35R turbo kit. Dyno numbers are around 400 RWHP @17 psi on pump gas and over 400+ with higher boost! The GT35R is dual ball bearing turbo so spool up is quick with minimal lag. Kit includes GT Series dual ball bearing Turbo, Stainless Manifold, Downpipe, Tial 44mm wastegate, all lines, fittings and hardware.Please call us if you have any questions about our turbo kits.

Most of our turbo kits ship within 5 days.




Features

Garrett GT35R Ball Bearing Turbo (T4, .82 Exhaust)
Stainless Manifold
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Stainless Downpipe
All lines and fittings

this is the kit i got!


i juss want to know if i can drive it with the stock ecu .....with out boosting?

 

I wouldnt. Thats just asking for a problem. Do you have any clue what all is truely involved in doing a proper single turbo swap? Especially with the size of the 35R. You will need a larger fuel pump, larger injectors, ecu, ecu tune just to name a few.

If you fail to do these and boost on an untuned set up, or boost on the stock ecu you will blow the motor. Guaranteed.

 

yeah but can i juss get a boost controller and boos like 8 psi for now till i get the pfc and the fuel pump and injectors?......or is there anything i can do not to boost the turbo at all till i get the other upgrades?

 

Cgotto is right.

Do NOT Drive the car with that turbo on it, full stop. Even 1psi on that turbo does not equal 1psi on the stock twins, the amount of airflow is totally different - since the car uses the boost PRESSURE to determine how much fuel to put in the car will be running lean even at 1psi.

The car is a guarenteed bomb driven AT ALL in its current state. Fit the turbo kit, upgrade the fuel pump, fuel lines, get a 1680cc top feed injector kit, and a PFC. Then and ONLY then can you get the car TRAILORED to get it mapped and then start to have fun..

Seriously dude, its not worth it. Drive the car in its current state and you WILL blow the motor - which will cost you more than buying the parts to fit so you can drive it safely.

Do the sensible thing. Dont fit that downpipe so you cant be tempted to drive it. Trust us!

 

You do realize that 10 psi on one turbo and 10 psi on another turbo are different correct. They boost the same pressure, but volume of air flow is darastically increased, as in the difference between the stock twins and a 35r.

The FD is based on a MAP system rather than a MAF system. So, the ecu is in a way is tuned to a preset fuel map according what the boost pressure is at the manifold. All of the maps are configured using the performance of the stock twins.

A power fc in the untuned form is only good to handle the stock twins with bolt ons, not a single turbo.

 

8psi will blow your motor.

probably 2psi will blow your motor on that turbo, and from reading your posts i KNOW you wont be able to stick to 2psi..

Seriously, i hate to tell you this, but you NEED to buy the supporting mods before you drive it or youll have a big bill on your hands. If you MUST drive the car, buy a junk set of second hand twins or get yours rebuilt until you can afford the rest of the supporting mods.

 

you need to jump down to the single turbo threads..and do some research...
driving that car with a stock ecu....you might as well play russian roulette with 6 bullets....
the single turbo isn't a replacement for stock turbos...its a upgrade, that needs supporting upgrades also...
good luck

brad

 

I could be way off here but having been to the dyno site and que-ing up all of the 10psi dynos they all had similar peak hp. If his AFRs stay low and his injector duty stays low i don't see why he couldn't run ~10lbs all day long. That said i would remedy the fuel delivery problem as quickly as possible.


http://71.102.125.165/graph.php?car2...1&SUBMIT=GRAPH

EDIT: jacobcarmill just put down 265rwhp with stock twins, stock ic, stock ecu. That beats out the blue car (#155) running a garrett t-66 @ 10psi.