glowing?
#26
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Well, I'm not going to argue the case with you. Every FD with stock twins I've seen gets the DP/manifold red hot after extended dips into boost, and that includes those with MPs. All you need to do is look at virtually every set of stock twins with some mileage and see the cracks in the manifold to know that that section of the turbo endures tremendous heat.
And like I said, he may have exhaust or engine issues that we don't know about.
And like I said, he may have exhaust or engine issues that we don't know about.
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thanks spurvo... yeah i had a few spare studs... tried the smaller ones as well with no luck... if i remember correctly i took that stud and ground it down even shorter (its not screwed in all the way because i couldnt get a nut on it. really the problem is with the nut... its just too big (especially with the wrapping on there as well). so spurvo whats this "lock washer" you speak of... ive probably seen one, but the name doesnt ring a bell. can you describe it? how do you get a grip on it? thanks
oh and as far as the possible clogged cat, i have a spare that i will put on tomorow and report back... (only thing is the spare has 93K on it... and i dont if it is also clogged??) im waiting to buy a HF... but im holding out because there has been talk of the new "metal" ones that flow as well as a midpipe possibly becoming available for hopefully not too much...
oh and as far as the possible clogged cat, i have a spare that i will put on tomorow and report back... (only thing is the spare has 93K on it... and i dont if it is also clogged??) im waiting to buy a HF... but im holding out because there has been talk of the new "metal" ones that flow as well as a midpipe possibly becoming available for hopefully not too much...
#28
don't race, don't need to
Wish I had a pic. Basically, it's a rather thick washer with a split in it, and the split ends are twisted slightly away from one another. When you tighten the nut down onto it, the splits dig into the metal of the nut and the clamped part, making backing out of the nut less likely. The reason I used one in that location was it has a smaller diameter than the nut or the typical flat washers used for that size bolt. It allowed the nut to clamp on a flat surface that was itself clamping on the DP close to the pipe, but not touching the weld.
#30
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Originally posted by RotorMotor
thanks spurvo... yeah i had a few spare studs... tried the smaller ones as well with no luck... if i remember correctly i took that stud and ground it down even shorter (its not screwed in all the way because i couldnt get a nut on it. really the problem is with the nut... its just too big (especially with the wrapping on there as well). so spurvo whats this "lock washer" you speak of... ive probably seen one, but the name doesnt ring a bell. can you describe it? how do you get a grip on it? thanks
oh and as far as the possible clogged cat, i have a spare that i will put on tomorow and report back... (only thing is the spare has 93K on it... and i dont if it is also clogged??) im waiting to buy a HF... but im holding out because there has been talk of the new "metal" ones that flow as well as a midpipe possibly becoming available for hopefully not too much...
thanks spurvo... yeah i had a few spare studs... tried the smaller ones as well with no luck... if i remember correctly i took that stud and ground it down even shorter (its not screwed in all the way because i couldnt get a nut on it. really the problem is with the nut... its just too big (especially with the wrapping on there as well). so spurvo whats this "lock washer" you speak of... ive probably seen one, but the name doesnt ring a bell. can you describe it? how do you get a grip on it? thanks
oh and as far as the possible clogged cat, i have a spare that i will put on tomorow and report back... (only thing is the spare has 93K on it... and i dont if it is also clogged??) im waiting to buy a HF... but im holding out because there has been talk of the new "metal" ones that flow as well as a midpipe possibly becoming available for hopefully not too much...
Good luck.
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Originally posted by RobertoMartinez
could be worse
could be worse
#36
guys i have the same problem.......the dp glows hot red......was wondering whether that can be because of a rich AF mixture?? how can that be something normal.....if it was.....wudnt everyone be having a red hot glowing dp??
#38
Constant threat
RotorMotor -
Wow.....that is one HOT s.o.b.! I have run the living **** out of my car, and pulled over and checked and all I have EVER seen is the dp glowing. My God....yours looks like a nuclear reaction going on in there!
I dunno....that CAN'T be normal, and can't be good on those cast iron components......
Wow.....that is one HOT s.o.b.! I have run the living **** out of my car, and pulled over and checked and all I have EVER seen is the dp glowing. My God....yours looks like a nuclear reaction going on in there!
I dunno....that CAN'T be normal, and can't be good on those cast iron components......
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OK i dont want to get the thread off track but i think this relates to glowing and i need some advice ASAP:
ok i just changed my stock CB to an unidentified (at least i cant tell) CB. its an FD specific unit (looks a few years old)... anyway, my cat still glows (but not as much) .... however all that heat is now being trasnfered further down the exhaust now... the new muffler (even after just crusing on the highway w/ no boost) turns red hot inside (if you look down the pipes... i mean RED!! the people driving in back of me must think its bad ***!!
the only problem is that it is melting the black valence that attaches to the bumper (right above it).
***does anyone else have a glowing muffler, and and how can i stop it from ruining my bumper??? ***
the heat has made the black valence sag some, and now contacts the pipe... the pipe gets way hot and i can visibly see the plastic at the very bottom liquifying and bubbling on to the exhaust pipe.
pics:
also, if anyone could identify this exhaust that would be super (id like to know what im using hehe)
ok i just changed my stock CB to an unidentified (at least i cant tell) CB. its an FD specific unit (looks a few years old)... anyway, my cat still glows (but not as much) .... however all that heat is now being trasnfered further down the exhaust now... the new muffler (even after just crusing on the highway w/ no boost) turns red hot inside (if you look down the pipes... i mean RED!! the people driving in back of me must think its bad ***!!
the only problem is that it is melting the black valence that attaches to the bumper (right above it).
***does anyone else have a glowing muffler, and and how can i stop it from ruining my bumper??? ***
the heat has made the black valence sag some, and now contacts the pipe... the pipe gets way hot and i can visibly see the plastic at the very bottom liquifying and bubbling on to the exhaust pipe.
pics:
also, if anyone could identify this exhaust that would be super (id like to know what im using hehe)
Last edited by RotorMotor; 03-20-04 at 07:48 PM.
#44
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WTH how could that happen, wierd, never heard of such thing.
I might of missed it in other threads but do you have the stock center cat on or is already gonne, I'd say that sucka might be clogged and create all that heat.
I might of missed it in other threads but do you have the stock center cat on or is already gonne, I'd say that sucka might be clogged and create all that heat.
#45
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... prob caused by insufficent fuel and/or slow (low numerically) ignition timing. check egt's at low rpm and high. low shouldn't be over 4-500 deg cel. and high(under load) not over 850-900.
--just a thought.
--just a thought.
#47
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Originally posted by jdhuegel1
... prob caused by insufficent fuel and/or slow (low numerically) ignition timing. check egt's at low rpm and high. low shouldn't be over 4-500 deg cel. and high(under load) not over 850-900.
--just a thought.
... prob caused by insufficent fuel and/or slow (low numerically) ignition timing. check egt's at low rpm and high. low shouldn't be over 4-500 deg cel. and high(under load) not over 850-900.
--just a thought.
i'll say this, that **** is running at least 1700 degrees F.
your engine is running on the lean side.
its a good thing in a way, the motor is faster, at the same time the engine can BLOW.
if you FEEL the power when you raced, your exhaust is good. turbo & exhaust are suppose to glow when you boost for ~10 sec or longer.
#49
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Originally posted by neit_jnf
will a full exhaust (dp, mp, cb) lower the heat? how about helping engine longevity?
will a full exhaust (dp, mp, cb) lower the heat? how about helping engine longevity?
lower heat temp., nope. longevity;all on tuning.
there are three types of exhaust glow on turbos.
1. lean
2.backpressure
3.turbo eff.