Well, I'm not going to argue the case with you. Every FD with stock twins I've seen gets the DP/manifold red hot after extended dips into boost, and that includes those with MPs. All you need to do is look at virtually every set of stock twins with some mileage and see the cracks in the manifold to know that that section of the turbo endures tremendous heat.

And like I said, he may have exhaust or engine issues that we don't know about.

 

thanks spurvo... yeah i had a few spare studs... tried the smaller ones as well with no luck... if i remember correctly i took that stud and ground it down even shorter (its not screwed in all the way because i couldnt get a nut on it. really the problem is with the nut... its just too big (especially with the wrapping on there as well). so spurvo whats this "lock washer" you speak of... ive probably seen one, but the name doesnt ring a bell. can you describe it? how do you get a grip on it? thanks

oh and as far as the possible clogged cat, i have a spare that i will put on tomorow and report back... (only thing is the spare has 93K on it... and i dont if it is also clogged??) im waiting to buy a HF... but im holding out because there has been talk of the new "metal" ones that flow as well as a midpipe possibly becoming available for hopefully not too much...

 

Wish I had a pic. Basically, it's a rather thick washer with a split in it, and the split ends are twisted slightly away from one another. When you tighten the nut down onto it, the splits dig into the metal of the nut and the clamped part, making backing out of the nut less likely. The reason I used one in that location was it has a smaller diameter than the nut or the typical flat washers used for that size bolt. It allowed the nut to clamp on a flat surface that was itself clamping on the DP close to the pipe, but not touching the weld.

 

Get that leak fixed bud, before your car melts away.

 

I had the same problem when I installed my DP, I put like 3 washers on that one, before you put the nut make sure the DP is not completely atteached to manifold (must be like 1/8" away at least with other nuts loose) so you can get the nut on, then tighten all the nuts little by little.
Good luck.

 

I used a same size/thread pitch hex-head bolt with a short end instead of a stud/nut on that particular attachment point. Went in without a hitch.

 

if the claim is a clogged cat - does anyone w/ a midpipe have this issue?

 

could be worse

 

WWOOOOOWWW!!! is that an FD??

 

i use that pic as my avatar on every forum im on besides this one....and the glowing thing is normal...my buddy has a 87 conquest and after hard driving u can light a cigarette off his turbo

 

guys i have the same problem.......the dp glows hot red......was wondering whether that can be because of a rich AF mixture?? how can that be something normal.....if it was.....wudnt everyone be having a red hot glowing dp??

 

...hmm, why isn't the forum letting me post attachments?

 

RotorMotor -

Wow.....that is one HOT s.o.b.! I have run the living **** out of my car, and pulled over and checked and all I have EVER seen is the dp glowing. My God....yours looks like a nuclear reaction going on in there!

I dunno....that CAN'T be normal, and can't be good on those cast iron components......

 

An example of how hot turbos and exhaust components get under high load conditions...

 

Holy COW!

 

a turbo in itself is an exhaust restiction. if they are not glowing you must not be trying hard enough. i have a full exhaust and it glows.

 

OK i dont want to get the thread off track but i think this relates to glowing and i need some advice ASAP:

ok i just changed my stock CB to an unidentified (at least i cant tell) CB. its an FD specific unit (looks a few years old)... anyway, my cat still glows (but not as much) .... however all that heat is now being trasnfered further down the exhaust now... the new muffler (even after just crusing on the highway w/ no boost) turns red hot inside (if you look down the pipes... i mean RED!! the people driving in back of me must think its bad ***!!

the only problem is that it is melting the black valence that attaches to the bumper (right above it).

***does anyone else have a glowing muffler, and and how can i stop it from ruining my bumper??? ***

the heat has made the black valence sag some, and now contacts the pipe... the pipe gets way hot and i can visibly see the plastic at the very bottom liquifying and bubbling on to the exhaust pipe.

pics:



also, if anyone could identify this exhaust that would be super (id like to know what im using hehe)

 

ANYONE??? seriously... my bumber is literally melting and i have to take it on a 7 hr drive in 2 days

 

WTH how could that happen, wierd, never heard of such thing.
I might of missed it in other threads but do you have the stock center cat on or is already gonne, I'd say that sucka might be clogged and create all that heat.

 

... prob caused by insufficent fuel and/or slow (low numerically) ignition timing. check egt's at low rpm and high. low shouldn't be over 4-500 deg cel. and high(under load) not over 850-900.

--just a thought.

 

sorry justin...please logout when you leave.

 

i'll say this, that **** is running at least 1700 degrees F.
your engine is running on the lean side.
its a good thing in a way, the motor is faster, at the same time the engine can BLOW.

if you FEEL the power when you raced, your exhaust is good. turbo & exhaust are suppose to glow when you boost for ~10 sec or longer.

 

will a full exhaust (dp, mp, cb) lower the heat? how about helping engine longevity?

 

lower heat temp., nope. longevity;all on tuning.

there are three types of exhaust glow on turbos.
1. lean
2.backpressure
3.turbo eff.

 

I did you monkey!!