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It getting warmer...any updates with those with Evans?

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Old 06-19-03, 10:00 AM
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It getting warmer...any updates with those with Evans?

I did do a search and saw a post on this back in May...

but what I was wondering if the people that put Evans in if they are still running it. One of my friends lost some of his coolant, got the car to start overheating, and could only fill it with water...now he's back to regular coolant. this is the only downside I see with the coolant that is "if" you do develop a problem and don't have any spare coolant around you may be SOL....

Also, how has your engine temps been holding up? Still satisfied?
Old 06-19-03, 10:18 AM
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Hmmm..I haven't driven my car in about a month, should be back together this weekend. I'll get back to you on that.
Old 06-19-03, 10:47 AM
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The first really hot day last year, > 100F, after switching to Evans NPG+ my temps went higher than they had ever been, still not overheating but past halfway on the stock guage. Then I did the procedure to get all of the water out of the system with a 0psi cap and a very long hose on the overflow hose looped over the rafters in the garage. Lots of steam came out and ever since the car runs below half way on the guage. I am now running a 7psi cap.

When I did the install I followed Pineapple Racing suggestion plus some:

Drained existing coolant.
Replaced with distilled water and radiator flush.
Warm up car running heater.
Drained and replaced with distilled water.
Warm up car running heater.
Drained and replaced with distilled water.
Warm up car running heater.
Drained block and radiator and replaced with straight Sierra.
Warm up car running heater.
Drained block and radiator and replaced with straight Sierra.
Warm up car running heater.
Drained block and radiator and replaced with straight Sierra.
Warm up car running heater.
Drained block and radiator.
Replaced all coolant hoses. (~13)
Replaced with Evans NPG+
Drove car with 0psi cap.
Did the procedure to get the water out.
Currently driving with 7psi cap.

I also always carry some Evans with me in case the coolant buzzer. But Evans mentions a temp solutioj on their site:
Unexpected Loss of Coolant: In the event of highway mechanical failure resulting in a coolant loss, NEVER ADD WATER. If EVANS NPG Coolant is not locally available, temporarily top off the system with, preferably, conventional (water mix) undiluted propylene glycol antifreeze, and be sure not to add water. Alternately undiluted ethylene glycol antifreeze may be used. Later, when EVANS NPG Coolant is available, the temporary coolant mix should be completely drained and the system refilled, preferable within 15 to 30 days.
Old 06-19-03, 11:19 AM
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hmmm....interesting....

thanks for your experience...

I don't think I would have to do the drain fill thing if the engine is out do I?

I know I need to empty the overflow tank...
Old 06-19-03, 04:41 PM
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Cantgostraight has been running Evans for about 6 months now. Summer just kicking in here in FL but as of yet no problems.
Old 06-19-03, 05:26 PM
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I still don't understand what all the buzz is about Evans.

I've owned my FD3S for over 10 years and 3 months, driven it in one of the hottest climates imaginable (Tucson), and have never had any overheating issues. I ran 80% water and 20% glycol for 6 years and switched to water and red line water wetter 4 years ago. Supposedly it's a little more efficient but I can't tell any difference. Sure, I replaced my stock rad with a cheapy copper and brass replacement ($175.00) a while back - and it dropped my temps by 15 degrees. I'm still on my original water pump. 3rd OEM thermostat. 81K miles.

I think what it comes down to is that there is always a fault in the cooling system that is undiagnosed, whether it be thermostat, radiator that is full of fuzz on the OUTSIDE, old leaky hoses, minor leaks from the the turbo coolant hoses (this happens to EVERY FD3S) or (gasp) blown O rings.

At this point most owners (and "mechanics") literally throw their hands up in the air and determine that glycol and water just isn't up to the task anymore, and that installing some new, high tech and outrageously expensive coolant is the answer to overheating due to the "exotic nature" of the rotary engine.

It never is...never will be.

Last edited by RonKMiller; 06-19-03 at 05:32 PM.
Old 06-19-03, 05:31 PM
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Ronk,

I know what you mean...it seems so expensive and hassle ridden that it makes little sense. I like you was running 80/20 with water wetter...

I have recently installed a Koyo and also a pettit thermostat....but occasionally, my car still runs hot...

and from what other forum members have posted, alittle higher than average...I'm just looking for a little more edge in cooling especially as the Texas summer starts to sizzle...if the longest people have been running the Evans is 6 months and everyone is switching back that says something....
Old 06-19-03, 05:40 PM
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Originally posted by 7racer
Ronk,

I know what you mean...it seems so expensive and hassle ridden that it makes little sense. I like you was running 80/20 with water wetter...

I have recently installed a Koyo and also a pettit thermostat....but occasionally, my car still runs hot...

and from what other forum members have posted, alittle higher than average...I'm just looking for a little more edge in cooling especially as the Texas summer starts to sizzle...if the longest people have been running the Evans is 6 months and everyone is switching back that says something....
Here's a neat little trick to keep you running cooler without costing you a nickle, and it takes about 5 seconds to do: It's my ultimate ghetto fan mod.

1) Disconnect the lead that goes to your rear hatch
glass defroster heating element. It's at the back
upper right corner of the hatch. Be carefull not to
snap the plastic connector by forcing it. They're
getting pretty brittle by now.

2) Now, when you depress the switch on your console,
the rad fans will kick on at low speed manually when
you want them to (like sitting at a long traffic light)
Click it again and they turn off.
Of course your rear heater element won't work - but
how often do you need it in the summer?

3) You'll also have the bonus of your rear heater
element "idiot light" on your dash illuminate to
remind you that the fans are on full time low power,
not necessary once you start moving since the ram
air through the radiator is more than sufficient to
keep things cooled off again.

4) When winter comes and you need the rear heater
element, reconnect it.

Bah dah bing - it works. Why does it work? I don't have a clue, and it may not work with an aftermarket
ECU. or model year other than a 93

Last edited by RonKMiller; 06-19-03 at 06:03 PM.
Old 06-19-03, 05:43 PM
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Ron,

I already do that and the parking lights...as soon as I get tuned or snag someone with a datalogit...I'll set the temps lower....
Old 06-19-03, 05:44 PM
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Good idea Ron, but it won't work on my 95. I have verified the parking lights trick doesn't work either.

I have to figure out what's going on with my cooling system too. The thermostat seems to be working but I don't think it's 100% (if that's possible).
Old 06-19-03, 06:01 PM
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Originally posted by rynberg
Good idea Ron, but it won't work on my 95. I have verified the parking lights trick doesn't work either.

I have to figure out what's going on with my cooling system too. The thermostat seems to be working but I don't think it's 100% (if that's possible).
That's what you get for buying one of those sissy limited edition 95's, instead of us hard core warrriors who know the real deal - the %&*#@ 93's!

Put in a new OEM thermostat again. Dont worry - be.....
COOL! How many miles on your rad?
Old 06-19-03, 06:25 PM
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Originally posted by RonKMiller
That's what you get for buying one of those sissy limited edition 95's, instead of us hard core warrriors who know the real deal - the %&*#@ 93's!
Haha, sometimes I actually do regret having a 95. For example, I couldn't figure out how to install the PFS intake secondary turbo connection -- turns out that Mazda changed the intake tube design for 95 and it won't work with the PFS intake.

I just had a fluidyne installed a few months ago. I'm running 75/25 water to coolant.

On the highway, the thing drops to 180 and sits there (unless I accelerate hard, it will go up to 190 or so and then drop back down).

In town, though it gets up to to 210-215 very quickly. Running the A/C on 3 in 80F temps in stop-and-go, and the temp gauge just kept on climbing.

I also hit 230F momentarily on a run at an auto-x last Sunday in 80-85F heat. The auto-x was very low speed (all 2nd gear).

This is the first summer I've had a water temp gauge, so maybe this is "normal".

I guess I'll just have to go through the pain of removing the PFS intake/SMIC and change the thermostat.

Last edited by rynberg; 06-19-03 at 06:27 PM.
Old 06-19-03, 06:41 PM
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rynberg!

that is exactly what I go threw...with my koyo and pettit thermostat....it runs cool....but get me in stop and go...

the rx-7 becomes the single source for global warming
Old 07-25-04, 04:11 PM
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So is the Evans worth it or not?
Old 07-25-04, 07:16 PM
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a bump for manny....someone let me know too
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