funny idle please help
#1
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funny idle please help
i have all boltons and a walbro 255 fuel pump controled by a pettit unlimited ecu, but my car sometimes idle from 1000 sometimes thru 1500 sometimes and in between sometimes, but i noticed everytime i drive the car and see a red light ahead i always put the car in nuetral (which means idle should be regular) and let the car roll to the light but the idle will stay at around 1500 till i make a complete stop i repeat a complete stop then it will go down what could be the problem
#3
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Could it be the throttle position sensor in need of a recalibration? My car will also do this from time to time. My car I lug down the engine with the clutch when at the light after I do that then it idles 750....if I don't do that, it will go down by itself in about a min.... it's annoying
#4
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I've noticed a slow drop down to normal idle as well. If i stop at a light and throw it in nuetral a little before the light it takes a second to go back down to 750 rpm. But once it does it idles beautifully, or did until it blew. (see sig)
#7
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I have the same problem. My EGR sensor is broken but I don't think that's it. Not sure about my dashpot but it looks okay.
Did you guys resolve this issue? If so, how?
Did you guys resolve this issue? If so, how?
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#8
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I wouldn't go adjusting your TPS sensor unless you already moved it, installed a new one, or you like causing additional headaches.
I have had my car for five years now, and I have monkeyed with this problem several times. Each time is was because I played with something, or changed something beyond stock.
Here are the known causes that I have discovered:
Improperly adjusted Fast Idle Cam
Improperly adjusted Air Adjuster Screw
Vacuum leak
Sticky Dashpot
Gasket leak
Throttle stop screw improperly adjusted
Dirty throttle bores
All of the above will cause this problem, but the obvious thing is to check the non-adjustable things before you go turning any screws. The only time you might need to play with the Air adjuster screw is when you change the intake, exhaust, port, or all of the above. That said, the Air Adjuster Screw is the most harmless adjuster you can adjust and if you feel the need to start adjusting, start there. If you are going to turn the throttle stop screw, make a clear mark of where it was before you move it.
Also, don't discount the value of a working Dashpot. I had helped a guy cure his horrible idle by suggesting that he test his dashpot and lubricate it if it wouldn't retract smoothly.
I have had my car for five years now, and I have monkeyed with this problem several times. Each time is was because I played with something, or changed something beyond stock.
Here are the known causes that I have discovered:
Improperly adjusted Fast Idle Cam
Improperly adjusted Air Adjuster Screw
Vacuum leak
Sticky Dashpot
Gasket leak
Throttle stop screw improperly adjusted
Dirty throttle bores
All of the above will cause this problem, but the obvious thing is to check the non-adjustable things before you go turning any screws. The only time you might need to play with the Air adjuster screw is when you change the intake, exhaust, port, or all of the above. That said, the Air Adjuster Screw is the most harmless adjuster you can adjust and if you feel the need to start adjusting, start there. If you are going to turn the throttle stop screw, make a clear mark of where it was before you move it.
Also, don't discount the value of a working Dashpot. I had helped a guy cure his horrible idle by suggesting that he test his dashpot and lubricate it if it wouldn't retract smoothly.
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