Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

Hello Folks,

I cannot make up my mind or chose the correct path, so I must seek out the experts. I have decided as part of my rebuild to go all in and step up to the BNRs. I don't plan to ever go single as I really like the FD with the Sequential old school 90s!

So, with staying BNR what is the best fuel system to chose? I will have a VMount and intend to do meth and don't plan on E85. I am in the process of doing a simplified sequential and upgrading my boost solenoids to the AzeKnight setup. My goal is 350 rwhp. I also have a Denso Supra pump to install.

What does the internets suggest if they were in my shoes?

Thanks in advance!

Adam

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

2200cc EV-14 secondaries and stock primaries.

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

Using stock fuel lines, rails and FPR?

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

I'm in process of doing the exact same thing. Go with the FFE secondary rail.

Jason94R2

iTrader: (3)

FFE secondary with ID2000's, stock everything seems to be fine for twins best i can figure. Its my plan for my car before i get it tuned. 350 is likely doable on stock twins with a competent tune though.

Jason

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

I have 101k on the orig motor and turbos. I'm starting to get a lot of blow buy. For the money, I'll do BNRs over another set of factory twins. Because unless I misunderstood the BNRs are rebuild able and I want what I do, to last another 20 years.

Jason94R2

iTrader: (3)

He offers stock rebuilds at 1k for the set. But i wont talk you out of the Stage 3's, i plan to get them myself

Jason

djseven

iTrader: (56)

How hard you plan to push them? For simplicity it's hard to beat throwing in some 1300ccs in the factory secondary rail.

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

Street, autox and occasional HPDE

Kenseto

An aftermarket secondary with a set of top-feed injectors is pretty much a bolt-on affair. I installed my KGparts secondary with 1680cc injectors last weekend with minimal hassle. I'm not sure if you can keep the stock FPR with a secondary rail, but I opted for an Aeromotive FPR. Other than the lines in your engine bay, you can leave your stock fuel lines if they're still in good condition.

These sites have great tools for calculating your fuel needs based on your setup:
Rx7.com Fuel Calc
Max Cooper Fuel Calc

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

I guess my hang up is I want to build it to last another 20+. I think that rules out cleaning my. Old primaries. So do I just buy a new set of OEM 550s or is there a more modern drop in for my primaries that makes more sense in the long run? See why I cannot make up my mind?

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

If you are sticking with the stock primaries, I would recommend having them cleaned and flow balanced. 20 year old injectors got pretty gummy. However, the EV14's are a newer design and do benefit from better control and atomization.

Personally, I would revamp the entire fuel system. Fresh injectors, lines, and FFE rails.

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

I don't necessarily want to stick with them, I just don't want to over build either. However, if it does make sense to replace for longevity sake with a newer style injector I'm more inclined to do that. But my research seems to show there isn't much in the aftermarket for side feed replacements.
I did stumble onto this thread that is interesting and looks like it would work for my needs:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...s-list-979704/

Theories solution not Alex's. That seems way overkill for my needs and mucho $$$.

Ball joint

iTrader: (6)

Have your secondaries cleaned by Witch Hunter and put them in the primary rail. Run the RC 1300's in the secondary. This will give you more then enough fuel for your goal and will give you room to go without have to buy new rails, lines, and regulator.

I run Stock 850's in Primary and stock 850's modified to flow 1600cc in secondary all with stock lines and regulator with no signs of fuel pressure problems.

Keep it simple :-)

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

I've read by many including Dale Clark that getting the 850s to idle well is a pain and I'm not powerfc tuner expert. I'm more powerfc tuner maroon.

I agree with the KISS build though and I realize Im getting ahead of myself. What about I start with some 1200s and clean my 550s and shoot for 300 rwhp? After I finish with all my other stuff including suspension, brakes, any and everything sakebomb sells, I go to a bigger non OEM fuel setup and shoot for bigger numbers. It's not a lot of effort to change out the rails, injectors, lines within the engine bay later.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Rebuilding the stock turbos is practically worthless. If the job is done correctly expect about 5k miles out of them at most. I speak from experience as when my turbos when out my service contract (yep you read right service contract) covered "like parts" which menat rebuilt... Anyway after a few thousand miles the turbos woud begin to smoke. I got a total of 3 swaps at around $4k a pop (price of turbos, cost of labor, car rental) and they still refused to pay and extra $500 bucks for new

I completely agree.

Go for the 1300's watch your injector duty cycle (which should be below 85% at 350 RWHP) and if it ain't broke then don't fix it.

wutangben

iTrader: (15)

loving this info, thanks guys

Jason94R2

iTrader: (3)

whats so different about rebuilding these turbos vs nearly every other turbo in existence?

Jason

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

I "THINK" the issue is they are not journaled bearings, but sealed ball bearing turbos which for some reasons makes rebuilding difficult.

So, thanks for all the info guys. I believe I finally have a plan. Another local rx7club member is going to sell me a pair of low mile 850s and 1200s. I'll start with these and dial back my HP goals. I read another thread where Fritz chimed in and compared various cars to the FD at specific HP levels on the track. I think 300 RWHP is a going to be fine for me at the track/autox. I forgot to mention it will be replacing an NB miata. 100 RWHP to 300 RWHP and only a slight weight increase == FUN!

In a couple years when I have finished with all the Suspension/Brake upgrades and Repaint work I want to do, I'll drive down to CJ Motorsports and get one of their sweet fuel systems and start turning up the boost.

Jason94R2

iTrader: (3)

Well then that would be a good enough explanation. Bearing damage usually means shaft replacement and at that point, yeah, throw it all away.

Jason

Montego

iTrader: (1)

At one point I knew the exact reason but have long forgotten... But from presonal experience I know that they don't last and i know its just not me. As even after my service contract ran out I had mine rebuilt a couple of more times by local dudes. Same scenario. I ended up going single because of it


https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-spend-539798/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ebuilt-401534/


From BNR site;

"The factory HT12's are not rebuildable in most cases."

bnrsupercars.com