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Fuel smell from underhood...

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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 05:50 PM
  #1  
Mindphrame's Avatar
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From: Conroe, TX
Fuel smell from underhood...

OK...Im a little worried about this one. I just noticed this today. Everynow and then I would catch a whiff of gas. Passed it off b/c I was close to a gas station, but I kept smelling it, it was pretty srtong. I pulled off in a shopping center and poped the hood, it wasnt like blow you away strong but I could notice it. Shut it off did the things that I needed to do. Returned to the car and and started it up. The smell was gone. Havent smelled it again but then again I went right home a parked it.

Now...whats the process for trouble shooting this? where did that come from. Ive never smelled gas before. Sugestions would be great.
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 05:55 PM
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mightyslash's Avatar
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From: West Coast
Time to get a fire extinguisher in your car.
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 06:45 PM
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From: Bellingham, WA
Definitely check out your fuel pulsation dampener. Engine bay fires are a BAD thing. Keep an extinguisher in your car if you must drive it anywhere.

26. FUEL LEAKAGE RECALL - ENGINE FIRES
CAMPAIGN #60504

The problem is that fuel lines become brittle because of excessive
engine compartment temperatures. Eventually, they leak fuel and the
car catches fire. The recall involves replacing the fuel lines with
a different material and adding a fan control relay which runs the
cooling fan for 10 minutes after the engine is shut off.

Affects:
All 1993 RX-7 models manufactured beginning December 1, 1991
and 1994 RX-7 models manufactured through September, 1994.

VINs affected:
JM1FD33**P0200001 - JM1FD33**R0303550

Total number of affected vehicles: 13,400
Repair Time: 3.8 hours

Install Part Nos.
N3A1-18-SE0 Fan Control Kit
N3A1-13-S70 Fuel Hose Kit

The following is a portion of a letter from the Vice President of Mazda
North America to the NHTSA dated March 30, 1995:

Mazda first learned of an engine compartment fire in an RX-7 which
had the recall remedy conducted in November, 1994. In January,
1995, Mazda engineers investigated seven RX-7 engine fires in the
United States and in the same month, NHTSA's information request
on the completion rate for the on-going safety recall campaign was
issued.

Mazda submitted a partial response on February 8, 1995 and a
complete response on February 22, 1995 in which Mazda reported
that it knew of 18 fire cases in which investigations in the U.S. found
evidence of fuel seepage from the fuel hoses on those vehicles.

In order to identify the cause of the fuel seepage, thorough
investigations and analyses have been conducted. In March, 1995,
Mazda identified the cause of fuel seepage and reported it to NHTSA
on March 22, 1995. Mazda concluded on March 24, 1995 that a
defect existed and that a recall was required.

Mazda Motor Corporation will notify all subject vehicle owners by
letter and will install an additional control unit for the electric
cooling
fan. The fan activates after the engine is turned off when the coolant
exceeds a specified temperature. Mazda will also replace the fuel
hoses with modified hoses in all these vehicles without charge.
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 06:47 PM
  #4  
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From: The O.C.
Ok, but he has a 94 so the recall does not apply. Check pulsation dampener ASAP.
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 07:06 PM
  #5  
FD Seeker's Avatar
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From: San Clemente, CA
For what it's worth: My fuel injectors were leaking, which gave the same fuel smell symptom.
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 07:16 PM
  #6  
7-sins's Avatar
thats not paint....
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From: Manassas, VA
Like Toadman said, check your dampener!!! It went on my car and I had only 60k on it. No telling how much fuel is on your block.

#500 post, woohoo
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 08:27 PM
  #7  
Mindphrame's Avatar
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From: Conroe, TX
Originally posted by martini
Definitely check out your fuel pulsation dampener
[/B]
For give my stupidity, but what and where is the Fuel Pulsation Dampener?
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 11:28 PM
  #8  
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
It's attached to the primary fuel distributor, which houses the primary fuel injectors. You gotta remove the extension manifold and solenoid rack (I think). Its kinda buried and bolts to the block underneath all this stuff.

Paul
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Old Feb 11, 2002 | 11:43 PM
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Flybye's Avatar
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From: Miami - Given 1st place as the POOREST city in the US as per the federal government
Originally posted by paw140
It's attached to the primary fuel distributor, which houses the primary fuel injectors. You gotta remove the extension manifold and solenoid rack (I think). Its kinda buried and bolts to the block underneath all this stuff.

Paul
Yep. You gotta remove all of that, the ACV, AND the secondary fuel rail to get to the damn thing. It's a real PITA.

Things you may want to consider while doing at the same time:
1) Send injectors to be cleaned
2) Polish and/or coat upper intake
3) Do the hose job
4) Replace spark plug wires
5) Inspect turbo coolant lines
6) I'm too sleepy to think of anything else
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 12:46 PM
  #10  
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From: Louisville, KY
Originally posted by Flybye

Yep. You gotta remove all of that, the ACV, AND the secondary fuel rail to get to the damn thing. It's a real PITA.

Things you may want to consider while doing at the same time:
1) Send injectors to be cleaned
2) Polish and/or coat upper intake
3) Do the hose job
4) Replace spark plug wires
5) Inspect turbo coolant lines
6) I'm too sleepy to think of anything else
Mine was bad and I'm replacing it now. I followed Flybye's reccomendations 3, 4, 5 and 7 (replace spark plugs). You CAN get it out without removing the fuel rail and injectors but it's hella tricky.
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 02:22 PM
  #11  
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From: Irvine
I did it, just remove the acv (i think, it bolts to the lower intake mani) and I took a ratchet with a long extention, and a phillips at the end, and pushed towards me to break the pulsation dampners screws loose (very deep screws which makes it easy) and fish it out. I think it was all in all better than taking the rail off, unless you want to replace o-rings or get injectors balanced and blueprinted or replaced!
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 02:26 PM
  #12  
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From: Louisville, KY
Originally posted by Indo Audio
I did it, just remove the acv (i think, it bolts to the lower intake mani) and I took a ratchet with a long extention, and a phillips at the end, and pushed towards me to break the pulsation dampners screws loose (very deep screws which makes it easy) and fish it out. I think it was all in all better than taking the rail off, unless you want to replace o-rings or get injectors balanced and blueprinted or replaced!
exactly what I was getting at...
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