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Fuel pump replacement writeup (with pics)

Old Apr 2, 2006 | 02:48 PM
  #1  
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Fuel pump replacement writeup (with pics)

Yeah, decided i was going to do my fuel pump today since my car wont start but that wasnt the problem on my behalf . Im still on the journey of finding out whats wrong. Anyway, for the people who want to know how to replace their fuel pump.

1: Open your hatch and lift up your carpet and you see see this silver metal face plate. Remove those 4 phillip head screws and set aside.



2: Once those 4 screws are off, you can lift up the cover but not entirely because its held by a harness connector (which you can unplug now) and a ground wire (?) seems to be which is held by a 7mm hex nut, use your ratchet and remove this hex nut.




3: Once the harness connector and the 7mm hex nut is off, you can lift the silver face plate off and can set it aside (i just layed it on the left side of the hatch wall. Here is what it looks like.



4: Now you will see 6 hoses in total held by normal hose clamps, loosen the hose clamps take off the hoses. Here is what it looks like when its all done.



5: Now using the same pic above, you will see 8 phillip head screws located on the outer rim of the entire fuel pump assembly cover. Remove all those screws now.

6: after thats all out, the entire assembly is ready to be taken out of the car. Be careful cause there are wires (for the fuel pump power and sensor/float etc) that could easily be broken off so take it out slowly.

Here is what it looks like when its out of the car.



Now its time to remove the actual pump, when you remove the positive and negative, its ok to not mark it as the 8mm hex nut is for the negative and the 7mm hex nut is for the positive. Now you say what about the wires themselves? Look at the wires carefully, the black is obviously the negative and the other wire is like a montego blue wire (lol) and thats the positive.

Now put your new pump in in reverse order. Took me about 1 hour with multiple breaks and i stripped one phillip head screw so i think i did a good job for my first try.

Good luck and have fun
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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Good write up thanks.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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From: Springfield, MO
if car starts and runs for secound or two check fuel pump resistor under brake master. good luck
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 03:26 PM
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From: indiana
correction

in step two you can just take the black connector off instead of taking off the bold, and in step 4 just take the two hoses off in the middle, the other four hoses that are just attached to the top of that tank can be left hooked together, just take the bolt holding them in and push them over to the side(much easier)
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 03:30 PM
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thnx for the writeup and pix bro ....
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by pwwatkins
in step two you can just take the black connector off instead of taking off the bold, and in step 4 just take the two hoses off in the middle, the other four hoses that are just attached to the top of that tank can be left hooked together, just take the bolt holding them in and push them over to the side(much easier)

Yeah i know, it was my first time looking under here so i just wanted to play it safe. I didnt know nor want to use shortcuts on my first time. But now i know for the next time, thanks

And to the other guy, my car ran fine one afternoon (i was warming it up like i always do every couple of days in the colder months), then after about 4 minutes, car just died and didnt want to start since then. So far its been a month and i changed the ignitor, plug wires, plugs, coils, fuel pump and car still doesnt want to start again . Car goes into the shop this week. Should done that in the beginning but i figured i save some money cause i know how to do all this. Well i just wasted money and alot of time for nothing. Now the weather is great and i have no FD.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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When I replaced my fuel pump a few months ago, I remember having to release my fuel pressure, and then priming it when I got the new pump installed. Did you just leave that out?
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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I would HIGHLY recommend taking those 8 phillips head screws out by first using an impact driver and a rubber mallet to get the screws loose. They are made of very soft metal and rust easily. Once you strip a head you will at least double the time of the job, just trying to extract it.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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From: Secaucus, New Jersey
Originally Posted by VegasFD
When I replaced my fuel pump a few months ago, I remember having to release my fuel pressure, and then priming it when I got the new pump installed. Did you just leave that out?

I did that out for this post, i figured some people would already know that.

As for me, i did that, although this wasnt my problem to the "no start".

Gonna go over my fuses and relays again because i basically replaced all the major/critical parts but i probably left out the obvious.

I would HIGHLY recommend taking those 8 phillips head screws out by first using an impact driver and a rubber mallet to get the screws loose. They are made of very soft metal and rust easily. Once you strip a head you will at least double the time of the job, just trying to extract it.
Yes def. When i saw those heads, i was like damn i better take my time so i dont strip/break it. I did all 7 and got to the freaking LAST one and it stripped and i was like you mother f*cker!! This car is really trying to push my luck. But i drilled it out and replaced it.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 08:29 AM
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From: west side
thanks, i was goin to do this really soon. PERFECT TIMING! the TT supra pump should be plug and play correct?
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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Thanks for the pics... I am thinking about doing this too in the near future.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Smile

Yeah thanks for sharing. This is definitely archive material.

-Cliff
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