It's only really necessary to run premix if you are making a lot of power or staying in high rpm range for an extended period of time like road racing. The theory behind premix is to help lubricate and cool the seals in the combustion chamber (along with the factory oil jets) because of a lot of heat, and sometimes the factory oil jets just aren't enough. It's basically a 2 cycle synthetic oil (different makes for different people, they're all pretty much the same, Lucas, Amsoil, Idemitsu, etc....) that you mix about 4oz/tank to 4oz/5gal depending on your power application and usage of the car. I use 4oz per 5 gal on 600bhp with racegas for a track car, and if I don't use premix, my engine has significantly more wear on it when I tear it apart if it lasts, it's just common sense. Using it may not help you for an everyday quick streetcar, but it CERTAINLY won't hurt you, or lower your octane rating-thats a bunch of BS. The only downside, if you really want to call it a downside, is it may create a VERY SLIGHTLY higher amount of emissions out the tailpipe IF anything, maybe. But lets face it, these are rotaries were talking about, and how many rotaries really run that clean normally anyway.

 

chuck the silly OMP in the garbage can (a factory concession for street cars, much like the goofy two stroke auto oiling systems on waverunners) and pre-mix this http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_214.htm

there is no way any oil injection pump will ever match the consistency and reliability of pre-mixing the gas....end of story

 

im looking into buying a motor with the omp removed... its setup for premix! what kind of ratio should i be using? is it safer to be with the omp and premix? i konw the omp's dont usually work to well and from time to time flucuate as far as how much they inject. also with this kit on rotary aviation... http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm would the electronic pump need the old lines or anything...? im not experience with the omp system so please educate and inform me. i was thinkin of going on this route but the premix is definately happening. thanks guys

 

this is a pretty good write-up from the Royal Purple website

http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html

In an ideal world, the rotary engine metered oil pump should inject an ashless oil designed to burn in the combustion chamber and use a four cycle oil in the crankcase for the eccentric shaft, rotor bearings, and thrust bearings. For the street, Mazda simplified the OE system to use just one oil, that being a typical four cycle oil for both the e-shaft as well as the combustion chamber. Royal Purple recommends using our standard TCW III 2 Cycle Oil if the metered oil pump is still enabled. The two cycle oil being added to the fuel tank is in addition to what Mazda designed to inject and acts as a supplement or insurance. Depending on which engine, the level of modifications (street port, Bridgeport, peripheral port, nitrous, turbocharged) and application, the typical mix ratio could vary from 200:1 to 800:1.

For a pure racing application where the metered oil pump has been disabled or removed, again based on the actual engine and modification level, the ratio could vary from 150:1 to 600:1. For this application, we recommend our Racing 2 Cycle TCW III product or the standard 2 Cycle TCW III can also be used.

A stock FD twin turbo 13B with the MOP oil injection system can typically use about one quart per 1500 miles under hard street driving. If this vehicle is getting 15 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio is 400:1. If the oil consumption on this vehicle reduces to 1 quart per 2500 miles and fuel efficiency increases to 20 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio increases to 600:1. The stock metering oil pump is a great system as it varies with throttle position (load on the engine). Pre-mixing has to be calculated for the ‘worst case’ that will be seen by the engine for that fuel load. Under racing conditions, that’s wide open throttle at racing rpms. This means that at idle, the ratio may be slightly fat (rich).

 

I run 100:1 ...there are all kind of ratios I hear...but 100:1 comes up a good bit. I haven't had any problems(knock on wood) yet...Ran this ratio in my TII and had no problems with it before I wrecked it 6k miles... I've put 4k on my FD since switching over...the only draw backs are mixing it at the gas station and trying to do the guessimation on how much you need to put in to tank.

 

I guess my solution to that would be to run the car to nearly the same point on the fuel gauge/trip meter every time, which shouldn't be an issue unless you are on a highway road trip

 

I've never used premix really, and I don't know how much to use. This ratio crap confuses the hell out of me. mods are:

PFC,INTAKE,DP,CATBACK and GROUNDING KIT

 

128 oz in a gallon, figure it out from there....go buy a little squeeze bottle and keep it in the car

and always fill the tank about half full before adding the pre-mix

 

if you don't know about it stick to the OMP...if you find after you learn about premixing that you want to go with it then do it...

what's the reason behind this?

 

just helps to ensure the oil is mixed into solution thoroughly

 

128 oz? like .128 or 128 oz?

 

read much?

 

128 oz that's 1 gal of gas...so for a 100:1 ratio 1.28 oz of oil/gal of gas!

 

higher math!

 

make it simple

 

well that's backwards in the normal terms of things...128:1 is how people usually say it!

 

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

so does anyone have information on this adapter?

 

ohhh 1.28, looks like Improved FD forgot a decimal there

 

no he didn't, he was just letting you know that 128 ounces = 1 gallon.

 

yeah you're right, so now how much do you use for every fill up? When should you fill up? I've read at half tank, but why from there?