silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

Hi all,

I just got done removing some stripped screws on the injector cover, previous owner jacked it up so it took me a couple of hours and lots of cursing and swearing I would push the car off a cliff...

Anyways, now I come to the point where I need to yank out the primary injectors, is there a secret to it, cause those 2 sit side by side and seems immpossible to remove. Bear in mind I did not remove any of the metal lines of the nest, only some silicone hoses in the way. The injector are exposed now with the cover off of them and the harness detached but they seem stuck, I cant spin them and I can bear get my fingers in to wiggle them. Is there a tool out there that can grip them without breaking the plastic harness plugs?

Do I have to take apart the nest or the fuel rail???? Everything on this car seem stuck or impossible angle to get to. I know 90% of the members on this forum has taken theirs out one way or another, please share your ideas. I'll post if need be.

Thanks for all the help, BTW

AldenBruh

did you remove the two bolts that hold the fuel rail to the center plate? they are the two gold bolts in the pic.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...7&d=1239801378

dguy

iTrader: (8)

Once you've removed the top plate on the fuel rail use penetrating oil to break any bond that the oring has created to the rail. I like to spray, let sit for 30 minutes or so then try to wiggle slightly, then spray again and wait for an hour or so, repeat. You should be able to remove the injectors at this point. Also, replace all orings afterwards.

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

I did not remove the bolts but I can get access to them, although I don't see how that can help free the injectors. Did you want me to pull the fuel rail out...the nest is still there so its not as clean as that pic in there...actually not clean at all

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Just pull the fuel rails out then remove the injectors. You can undo the bolts which hold the solenoid rack down to the engine which will allow you to pull it towards the driver's side about 2-3 inches so you can remove the rails.

While you have everything out, recondition everything. You can order the fuel hose recall kit from Malloy Mazda and get the injectors cleaned and flow balanced.

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

Does the fuel hose kit contain the main rubber hose prior to the fuel rail? And how about that collar around the hose between the fuel rails (secondary to the primary), from what I recall, the collar didn't look easy to remove.

And do I need to take the rat nest apart to get to the primary? Or can everything slip out w/o removing the entire nest assembly? I've searched everywhere on the forum and manual, but can't seem to find out where the nest bolts down to the motor...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes.

You do not need to take the rats nest apart to get to the primary injectors. Pulling back the rats nest with the available slack in your vacuum and electrical connections typically provides more than enough room.

You will need to remove the ignition coil pack, then you'll see the bolts which holds the entire rats nest to the engine block (along with the bolt from the oil filler neck). When you remove the bolts, the rats nest will be loose and can be pull a few inches out of the way.

I would also suggest pressure testing your system before you re-install it. Here's what I did:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=255

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

Mahjik,

THanks for the advice, I am going to go home and try it out.

With your pics in the thread with the new fuel hose kit, how did you mount that hose with the metal collar to the different rails?

I do have a Defi Fuel pressure D-gauge I bought a long time ago, since everything is coming out, it may be a good time to install the sensor, just need to figure out there it threads into...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Those are stock fuel rails.

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

For the life of me, I cannot get the injector or the rats nest out. The whole thing shifts if I move it, but it doesn't want to come out. I've unbolted:

the coil assembly
the 5 bolts holding down the rats nest bracket down
the 4 bolts that hold down both fuel rails
the 2 bolts that connect the oil filler neck to the motor
coolant lines that hook up to rats nest metal bracket

I did not unbolt the 2 nuts that hold the oil fill neck to the metal bracket or unhook the 2 fuel lines

Anything else I may have overlooked? I do notice a black plastic container that is below the
alternator / in front of oil filler neck / under engine hook. That piece looks connected to the oil fill neck bracket but the nuts seems impossible to take out in place.

Please help, I am out of ideas here and I don't want to complete disassemble the entire engine


driver side


Passenger side


front

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

can I use a flat head screwdriver to pry it out? or is there a SST for it

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

2 things:

1. You aren't "removing" the rats nest, only loosing it so you can pull it back a few inches to make it easier to remove and re-install the primary fuel rail.
2. You need to undo the bolts for the oil filler neck to the metal bracket. That bracket is part of the rats nest bracket.

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the reply Mahjik,
I'm not removing the nest, but with it unbolted I get maybe 1 inch of play. I did unbolt the filler neck from the bracket/motor [there were 2 bolts and some RTV seal] so when I wiggle the nest around the neck does move with it. But the vacuum chamber by the A/C and alternator moves as well. The problem I get is the space to remove the bolt to unmount the chamber is tight and it looks like the nest has to come out to take that little bolt out.

All in all, with the chamber connected I can't move it much to expose the injectors. Also the injectors are in there super tight, I can spin the front injector, but the O-rings had made a really tight seal and I can't get my fingers to grip the little head to pull it out

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to do anything with the vacuum chamber. If your vacuum line to it is that tight, just undo the side of that line at the rats nest. Then you should be able to pull the nest over to the driver's side and expose the two bolts for the primary fuel rail.

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

the 2 bolts are off the primary fuel rail....but I can't seem to squeeze it from the nest...am I missing something else

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Did you remove the two fuel lines running to the rack (one from the FPD, the other from the FPR)?

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

not yet, the hoses were on tight and the clamp started to crack one of the hoses. I was going to change out the fuel hoses anyways to put the sensor for a fuel gauge, so I can take them off. I was also worried about yanking them because I wasn't sure if fuel would leak out too.

Once I free the rails from the hoses, will that allow me to free the fuel assembly?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

With the bolts out and the lines off it should come out but you may have to wiggle it a little.

Once the rails are out if the injectors are really tight I used compressed air in the end of the rail. Popped them out pretty easy and was alot safer than prying.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Some fuel will come out, but it won't be the end of the world.

If everything else has been taken care of, yes. It requires a little manipulation to get the primary rail out.

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

Don't forget to replace (or better yet) eliminate the FPD while you're at it.

Also, do not lose the plastic spacer that sits between the primary rail and the iron or you'll be back in there again

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

Not sure what the FPD is, I'm searching it on the forum now, but don't see anything on what it is.

I finally got the assembly out, although I just read this post, I need to go back and look for that spacer you are talking about...gasket?

Also the primaries have the insulator at the tip of the injector, do the secondaries have them?

silvercvic

iTrader: (17)

Just thinking too, is it hard to put the injectors back in? or is it a struggle, I would like to have pretty much everything assembled so that I don't forget where everything goes!

MSTHTD1

iTrader: (16)

This should help you out. At the bottom of the page you can download the Service Manual.

http://www.wrex-racing.com/web/fd/info.htm#tech

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

The fuel pulsation damper is the part that likes to leak and cause engine fires.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/buy-fire-extinguisher-906054/

Without the spacer you'll have fuel leaks.