DamonB

I cut open a used fuel filter just to take a peak inside. I realize now it would be helpful to tell you how many miles were on this filter so I'll check my maintenance log tonight and let you know.

This is a Purolator filter and it has just over 1.5 square feet of filter media in it. Those of you with aftermarket inline billet filters with media the size of my thumb should consider cleaning your filter about every other week

The filter media is folded in half and then wound into a coil with its outside edges glued to the inside of the filter canister. Gas enters the "open" side of the v-shape made by folding the media in half and then exits the other side. Pics show both sides of the media with a closeup of the dirty side.

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

Wow. Actually, I just got my fuel filter(Beck Arnley) in the mail yesterday. Plan to change the old one out this weekend. Think I'll open up my old one and see how it looks. I have no idea how old it is. Thanks for the pics, btw, what did you use to open up the filter?

DamonB

Careful use of a hacksaw. I ignored the few fresh metal shavings this left on the very outside of the media.

A true filter cutter works like a giant tubing cutter; it has a sharp knife like blade that slices through without making shavings. Everytime I find one they want too much money for them so I have yet to buy one. I'd like to cut my oil filters open too but doing that with a hacksaw that will introduce shavings into the filter is useless.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Damon, thanks for the pics. Very interesting. I wonder how dark a filter has to be to slow down flow.

I wonder if a regular can opener would work. Oil filters have a rolled bottom edge, IIRC. Even the pocket-knife style ones.

On second thought, a careful cut into the side followed by use of tin snips might work - as long as it doesn't create any sparks

Dave

DamonB

I'd like to know that too. Next time I change fuel filters I'll disconnect the fuel feed line and turn the fuel pump on. Then I'll compare how long it takes to fill a one gallon container with a dirty filter vs a new one.

Even though my filter is very dark you could view light through it very easily. It was more discolored than dirty. I could find only a few small areas where the media was actually clogged.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the pic DamonB! I always wonder how dirty it gets. How many miles on the filter?

rotorbrain

this is very informative. . . and the reasoning is pretty much solid as to why i didnt go with one of those inline thumb-sized filters.

damon, since youre not using stock filters (a lot of the reason most seem to want to keep the stock location), you might want to look into relocating A filter elsewhere. i used a purolator inline filter that is very common on gms and of good quality. . . i like it quite a bit. relocated it to the rear subframe between the gas tank and. . . well, the subframe. i used to have pictures of it on here, but has since lost my webhosting abilities.

the fuel filters p/n is f33144. i bought it from advance auto parts, but i believe that p/n is the actual number. . . and not their stock number. you can also pick up the corresponding fuel lines from the "help" section of a parts store.

i researched my filter before i actually bought it, because i wanted to make sure it was capable of withstanding higher hp cars and the such. i found that it came on the turbo gms and even some of the high displacement jags. the greatest thing was that the filter fit PERFECTLY in the stock filter bracket. that was nice, cause i could use that bracket to hold it onto the rear subframe. . . and bend the hardlines that go to it to make flow easier to get to it.

i have p/n's for the hardlines, but everytime i send someone to get them, they come back to me saying they dont exist. so, i just refer them to the "help" section of the store and theyre always able to find them that way. pretty weird if you ask me.

hope that helps in some way. . .

DamonB

Typo? I am using a stock filter in the stock location. This is just a Purolator brand, not a Mazda.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Could also be possible to use a TurboII fuel filter. It's generally the same size, and has straight inlet/outlet nipples - actually, the outlet is at a slight degree angle.

The biggest trick with changing the fuel filter for me is just getting the fuel lines on and off. With a good selection of pliers and some hose removal pliers, it's not that bad. I could probably change one in 15-20 minutes, which IMHO is acceptable for a part that's only changed infrequently (ie, not an oil filter or something).

Dale

rotorbrain

hehe, bad use of terms on my part. . . i meant OEM from the dealership. oops, sorry about that.

btw, the filter i use is about $5-$6. another reason i didnt want to use the tII one. . . last i had checked on it (even aftermarket), it was like $20 or so. my memory floats on that one, though. i may be wrong.

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

I am using an inline 30 micron filter and clean it every 3 months. Seems to work fine. Easy access next to my ignition amp..

rotorbrain

this is another reason i didnt relocate mine to the engine bay. note this: what you do to your own car is your deal. . . same applies to me.

anyways, i had no desire to create another joint in the fuel system under the hood. by placing a fuel filter under there, you add at least 2 more places for a possible leak. i say "at least" because if you have a single canister like i have. . . its only 2, and if you have one like mentioned above. . . thats 3 places. now, im not saying that yours IS leaking or has leaked in the past. what im saying is that i dont see why adding another 2-3 potential fuel leaks to the engine bay is considered an "upgrade". there are a lot of components up there that dont "require" fuel to run . . . i.e. ignition amp. as a matter of fact, i wouldnt want the 2 anywhere near each other. . . and believe it or not. . . an fittings CAN leak.

like i said, to each his own. . . i mean. . . come on. . . i safety wired my turbo down to the exhaust manifold. . . among other things, as well.

GARCO MOTORWORKS

I also lowered my filter to the rear of the rear subframe .Using a Gm filter with screw in connectors .I can change filters in about two minutes . I will not put a filter under the hood for a customer if they ask, only in the rear .

JConn2299

So, DamonB, how many miles were on that dirty fuel filter?

HDP

iTrader: (2)

Try Harbor Freight Tools.

DamonB

That filter had 64,000 miles on it. Mazda recommends replacement every 60,000.

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

Anybody who works on their own car should be smart enough to be as safe as possible. There is no B.S. under my hood. In fact it is very basic. Plenty of room. No power steering, a/c, emissions, etc. I know all my connections are the best possible. Everything is SS braid hoses with the right compression clamps. If you know where to look for fuel leaks you will never have a problem! In fact I have a switch looped into my fuel pump that lets it run to check for any such problems along w/ proper fuel pressure. I dont consider it an upgrade I am just picky about the health of my motor . Oh yea.. Any fitting, hose can leak. Especially the ones that are thrown together. Oh? Have you ever heard of a splash sheildor soldering wires together and high temp resistant rubber wire coating? Works great for ignition wiring.. G

jic

iTrader: (1)

good stuff
changing my filter soon
no idea if its purolator
def not a oem mazda one

rotorbrain

alright, you posted your reasoning for doing your mod. . . just as i did. i wasnt trying to bash you at all. . .

DamonB

I put far more miles on my car than most people here. Mazda recommends changing the fuel filter every 60,000 miles. Even if I drive 15K a year that's a fuel filter change once every four years!!!

You guys blow this difficulty of changing the filter thing way out of proportion. Just leave it where it is.