My front cover does not seem to be leaking, there is residual oil around the front cover, but does not seem to be leaking through the seal, I did find that my MOP o-ring was very flat and that is where some of the oil was coming from.

If my Front cover were leaking, would I see oil liaking out like a leaking oil pan? Iwll try to get a few pics later today.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/bad-install-during-reman-crappy-seal-402265/


Quote of a pm I sent to Damonb (who had a front cover leak recently)

Did you get oil all over the front of the engine with your leak? I thought at first it was the main front seal but after I pulled the pulleys I found that the seal there was dry and the back of the pulleys were dry. Then I found an oil metering line that was a little loose and one of the oil metering pump bolts was stretched (I was able to break it with my fingers after I removed it - lucky!!). I also checked the turbo return and both joints had metal gaskets and the hose clamp was tight. The oil metering lines themselves are very wet but there is no evidence they are leaking - replaced a couple months ago and I am not getting any bubbles in the line plus there is no oil on the top of the engine. It is kinda frustrating and I am almost inclined to pull the whole freaking engine and replace everything down to the shortblock seal wise.

And then more description I sent to him:

Mine is kinda like that. No leaks at idle, and no leaks when on stands (level) and rev'd to 4000 for a couple minutes (did the rev 3 or 4 times and let the engine sit over night). Not a drop. But as soon as I put it on the street under load the front of the engine is covered as well as the entire oil pan and subframe. Since it doesnt leak all the time I have ruled out the oil pan seal itself. All the hard and cooler lines are dry.

Oh well..I guess I just need to get out there next week and start taking it apart. Thanks for the info about your leak. I may go ahead and do the front seal no matter what as I dont want to have to go through this process again.


Hope yours is not this....it was a pain.

 

As shawnk and I can attest front cover leaks can be odd. My leak was in the front cover just over the OMP and since I waited so long to fix it the constant hot oil dripping onto the OMP finally killed it. The front cover won't leak bad until the oil is sloshing around in the pan. Then it's picked up by the chain on the oil pump drive and slung out of the front cover gasket.

With what I know now if I wanted to check the front cover I'd jack the rear of the car up (tail high, nose low) and then start the car and rev the engine. If the leak is the front cover this will certainly make it leak. I was so frustrated by the time I finally located the leak on my own car that I let RP fix it. It certainly wasn't cheap but I was out of patience by that point and didn't want to tear the car down over a weekend.

 

If it's a 1993 model,check the PCV since if it goes bad, your letting boost into your oil pan/front cover area as well. And also get the metal front cover gasket and not reseal it with the junk type gasket.

Tim

 

Here are a few pics of the front cover. It seems like it is just oil that was geting thrown around, the MOP and turbo pipe was leaking for sure. I am not sure why there was sealant put on the bottom of the drivers side, but I cannot seem to seal any oil leaking around there.

 

A few more.

 

Well I am going to need to repalce the front cover gasket, Rotorsports racing is the only place to get the metal gasket right? I assume I will also need the thermostat housing gasket and water pump gasket? Or can the front cover be replaced while leaving those on?

Anything else I would need to do it?

 

I wias doing some research and it I think these are the only parts needing replaced:

-Front cover gasket (metal, and no silicone)
- Water pump to block gasket
-O-ring for E-shaft bolt
-Front oil seal
-O-ring/back up ring (I saw this in the manual, I am not sure what it is for)

Any tips on holding the Flywheel or pulley so I can remove the front bolt? All I have to do it remove the cover, and not touch anything underneath, right?

 

One other thing, I do not have to remove the crank angle sensors right? and they wil not need adjusted then, right?

 

You do not need to remove them...


Shawn

 

you can't adust the CAS

 

How do you adjust the timing then? Or you don't? I am use to the FCs where you will have to adjust after removal.

 

adjust electronically...if you have an aftermarket ECU.

 

Hmmm ok, what kind of note do I have to take in removing the front pulley and CAS sensor ring?

 

Damn forum problems...

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

dupe

 

Sorry should have been more clear, I mean for alignment of the timing grove(s). I know about the trust bearing.

 

It only fits back on one way...that makes it pretty easy eh?

Shawn

 

What I am talking about is one you remove it from the block off the E-shaft.

Well I got my metal gasket from Rotorsports Racing today, and for some retared reason they shipped it in a cut up cardboard box, but they used flaps, as you guessed it, its creased!

On a good note I called Rusty rigth away and he said to return it and he will send a new one. Although I need it this friday and he said his next shipment is iether coming tomorrow or friday.

I was inspecting it further and it seems like it "may" be useable, as the cush section seems to be still intact. Here are a few pics, what do you think?

 

Two more

 

?

 

Order one from someone who can ship overnight and get a refund from rotorsports if you need it by Friday. The one you have may/probably will work but why risk it?


Shawn

 

I do not think there is anyone else in the States that carries the metal front cover gasket.

 

How the hell do you break the front pulley bolt?!?!