Fresh Engine Won't Start !! ignition & Fuel are Ok !!
#1
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Fresh Engine Won't Start !! ignition & Fuel are Ok !!
I am a bit confused !! I have built couple of engines but nothing like this.
I have a fresh engine. Compression seems to be 60+ PSI on both Rotors. it used to have a hard time to start at the beginning but at least it start when its cold.
The only problem was It almost will never want to start when its hot !!
Now it will never start Cold At All.
I have a microtech LT8s.
Changed C.A.S.
coil packs are working perfectly
clean fuel injectors 1000CC primary 1600CC secondary
new Spark plugs
Fresh Fuel (95 Octane)
I am clue less now !!! I'm thinking I might take the engine apart again !! but it make no sense to do that wouldn't it ???
Any Thought guys ?
I have a fresh engine. Compression seems to be 60+ PSI on both Rotors. it used to have a hard time to start at the beginning but at least it start when its cold.
The only problem was It almost will never want to start when its hot !!
Now it will never start Cold At All.
I have a microtech LT8s.
Changed C.A.S.
coil packs are working perfectly
clean fuel injectors 1000CC primary 1600CC secondary
new Spark plugs
Fresh Fuel (95 Octane)
I am clue less now !!! I'm thinking I might take the engine apart again !! but it make no sense to do that wouldn't it ???
Any Thought guys ?
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Yes I build it myself.
Some times it sound like its going to start if i step on the throttle. and if i add more fuel to it, the exhaust start to have smoke. but no start !!
Tunning is same as before. even i tried to play with it a little but still no use.
plugs are having a little fuel but no combustion.
Large Street ports. battery are OK 11 to 10.2 on start. TPS is adjusted.
Some times it sound like its going to start if i step on the throttle. and if i add more fuel to it, the exhaust start to have smoke. but no start !!
Tunning is same as before. even i tried to play with it a little but still no use.
plugs are having a little fuel but no combustion.
Large Street ports. battery are OK 11 to 10.2 on start. TPS is adjusted.
#7
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Get the battery completely charged and use a jumper pack (or cables with another car) when trying to start the car. You'll be repeatedly cranking it, which can kill the battery quickly.
Get some ATF and pour a couple of ounces into each rotor either via the spark plug holes are the small nipples on the UIM above the turbos. This will help build compression.
Also, if you had the fuel injectors cleaned it's possible they're now gummed up. We always apply voltage to the injectors before installation to make sure they click nicely. Yours may be stuck closed, I've seen it happen more than once.
Do you have a power fc? if so check the voltage across all sensors, paying special attention to the TPS (VTA1 and VTA2).
Get some ATF and pour a couple of ounces into each rotor either via the spark plug holes are the small nipples on the UIM above the turbos. This will help build compression.
Also, if you had the fuel injectors cleaned it's possible they're now gummed up. We always apply voltage to the injectors before installation to make sure they click nicely. Yours may be stuck closed, I've seen it happen more than once.
Do you have a power fc? if so check the voltage across all sensors, paying special attention to the TPS (VTA1 and VTA2).
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#8
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I made the mistake of not greasing the injectors when I reinstalled them into the rail and they leaked a little... pull the rails off the car and bridge the F/P connector to ground in the diagnostics box to make sure fuel isn't leaking out the bottom of any of them.
make sure you also clean out the trailing plug holes if you think its flooded, guys use to tell me you only need to do leading, but i could only get it to start on new plugs or cleaning the crap out of all 4, my car use to flood once a week really bad. Once I turned down the water temp fuel correction it solved all the issues.
Heating the plugs with a blowtorch before you put them back in also helps a bit... but as GoodfellaFD3S said.. make sure you get some ATF in there if you can and it will help it.
make sure you also clean out the trailing plug holes if you think its flooded, guys use to tell me you only need to do leading, but i could only get it to start on new plugs or cleaning the crap out of all 4, my car use to flood once a week really bad. Once I turned down the water temp fuel correction it solved all the issues.
Heating the plugs with a blowtorch before you put them back in also helps a bit... but as GoodfellaFD3S said.. make sure you get some ATF in there if you can and it will help it.
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Ok, This is what I did Today.
I put some ATF into the UIM holes and it cranked WAAAY quicker than before !! offcourse it smoked then after 5-10 min. it was fine. the engine responded Smoothly.
let it running for a little over an hour. sounds good, fuel is great, TPS is perfect, absolutely no problem. BUT when i shut it off; i couldn't get it to run again. voltage was low around mid to low 9Volts.
My next thought is to take a compression test tomorrow and check if the compression has got built up !?!?!?!?
Oo and by the way I have a Microtech LT8X
what do you guys think it could be ???
I am eliminating the thought that I have to re-do the engine again :S
I put some ATF into the UIM holes and it cranked WAAAY quicker than before !! offcourse it smoked then after 5-10 min. it was fine. the engine responded Smoothly.
let it running for a little over an hour. sounds good, fuel is great, TPS is perfect, absolutely no problem. BUT when i shut it off; i couldn't get it to run again. voltage was low around mid to low 9Volts.
My next thought is to take a compression test tomorrow and check if the compression has got built up !?!?!?!?
Oo and by the way I have a Microtech LT8X
what do you guys think it could be ???
I am eliminating the thought that I have to re-do the engine again :S
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+1 for the battery being to low.
I assume you have mounted the battery in the trunk, depending on what wire you used you might not be getting the super clean voltage needed to start the car, especially to make the big 1000cc primaries pulse nicely...
have you tried measuring the voltage at the injectors when the ignition is in the on position to verify that it matches that is being read at the battery?
I assume you have mounted the battery in the trunk, depending on what wire you used you might not be getting the super clean voltage needed to start the car, especially to make the big 1000cc primaries pulse nicely...
have you tried measuring the voltage at the injectors when the ignition is in the on position to verify that it matches that is being read at the battery?
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Yes. the Voltage was low. New Battery is on.
two days ago. I kept the Car Running for two Hrs. revved it a couple of time. maybe went little crazy on the revving. :p
Started it today with out any ATF and it cranked up right away. now my starter have problem. I'll fixed it tomorrow and then I'll take Cold Compression test and then I'll run it for another hr. and Hot test again.
I am hopping to see 90s.
Mr. Steve Kan had told me it should build up some pressure and the Seal should seal better.
will put some numbers later on.
two days ago. I kept the Car Running for two Hrs. revved it a couple of time. maybe went little crazy on the revving. :p
Started it today with out any ATF and it cranked up right away. now my starter have problem. I'll fixed it tomorrow and then I'll take Cold Compression test and then I'll run it for another hr. and Hot test again.
I am hopping to see 90s.
Mr. Steve Kan had told me it should build up some pressure and the Seal should seal better.
will put some numbers later on.
#13
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We never have problems with new engines firing up at my shop, but we almost always use all new internal hard seals and springs and new or lightly used rotor housings. If you're having this much trouble keeping the car running, I have to ask--- what mileage and condition rotor housings and apex seals did you use in the build?
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We never have problems with new engines firing up at my shop, but we almost always use all new internal hard seals and springs and new or lightly used rotor housings. If you're having this much trouble keeping the car running, I have to ask--- what mileage and condition rotor housings and apex seals did you use in the build?
I have ALL New Apex seal,Springs, Solid side seals, etc.
My rotor housing is pretty new. no scratches.
I am using a reusable water seals. but that is not the issue.
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OK. Just made compression tests.
Cold Rear 75-76 Hot Rear 60-61
Front 74-75 Front 59-60
I guess, I'll re-open the engine again and check/redo everything !!
All Agree ?? Or is there any other way that a compression might go up to 90 :P
Cold Rear 75-76 Hot Rear 60-61
Front 74-75 Front 59-60
I guess, I'll re-open the engine again and check/redo everything !!
All Agree ?? Or is there any other way that a compression might go up to 90 :P
#16
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If you replaced the Apex Seals, springs, and side seals you either have extremely warped housings(only seen this once), extremely worn housings(just because there isnt apex seal damage doesnt mean they are good), or you have some serious clearancing issues likely with the side seal but it would have to be drastic.
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I don't know !! I am thinking that my Atkins solid corner seals are passing !!
I only saying that because i have had put a "bad" ( lite scratches) rotor housing but didn't see 60 PSI !!
or is it true that Solid Corner seal are very hard to start ???
I only saying that because i have had put a "bad" ( lite scratches) rotor housing but didn't see 60 PSI !!
or is it true that Solid Corner seal are very hard to start ???
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Also do you have a pic. of how solid corner seal look like installed ?? Just to verify.
#20
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My suggestion is to pull apart the engine and post pics of the housings here on the forum.
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Today November 15th, 2010 I have my engine ready for disassemble. I have some issue where my workshop is not being as usual but will continue with the progress.
Hopefully with in the next 24hrs will have some pictures lauded.
Hopefully with in the next 24hrs will have some pictures lauded.
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ok, these are the pictures;
finding are,
1- the bearing was crushed
( I admit its probable my mistake while assembling )
2- the thicker ring on the front stationary gear is scored
3rd & 4th - front rotor housing (compression and exhaust).
5 - rear rotor housing.
everything else look in good shape !! let me know what you think.
finding are,
1- the bearing was crushed
( I admit its probable my mistake while assembling )
2- the thicker ring on the front stationary gear is scored
3rd & 4th - front rotor housing (compression and exhaust).
5 - rear rotor housing.
everything else look in good shape !! let me know what you think.