are you testing for spark before or after your spark plug wires?

 

I've got that manual and have sat and tried to decipher it but I'm horrible at schematics.

 

Leading Coil:
1. Checked coil with olm meter, looks good and works great when I plug in the trailing connector to the actuall leading coil.
2. Connected leading coil to trailing output from igniter. Leading coil fired. This suggests that the leading coil is OK.


Igniter:
1. Replaced igniter. No improvement.


Wires between leading coil & Igniter:
1. Checked for continuity between Leading coil & Igniter. Continuity was there.
2. Swapped wires with no improvement.


Wires between Igniter & ECU:
1. (Check for continuity, switch wires if possible) Checked wires between igniter and coils, not between igniter and ecu.I've switched plug wires around and harness wires around. Coil checks good with olm meter.

Fuses Checked.
...

Relays Not sure how to check
...

Spark plugs Brand new
...

ECU Swapped out new one.
...

 

I'm checking spark after the plugs. I have swapped wires so that's no the problem.

 

it only happens when you turn the wheel a certain way. you might want to check for continuity in each wire in that harness form the sensor of question and to a point to where you can be certain that its a good connection. in doing you would be able to find a short to power or short to ground in the harness which could very well cause this problem. in my opinion this would not be a sensor related problem because from what you said the car runs until you turn the wheel and then the car acts up.

 

to check relays you need to look at the diagram on the side of it. use a dmm to test between the leads

 

That's how it acted before. Not I can't get any spark on my leading coil at all.

I checked continuity through a few wires that I repaired and they tested good. I might need to check them all.

 

What's a dmm? I wouldn't think there is a relay that caused only the leading coil to not fire.

 

yeah i would check all of them in that part of the harness because the tire might of rubbed or melted a few wires together causing it to act up

 

Can someone list a starting point, what's in between and end to the ignition system? The manual gives me a headache.

Also, does anyone know the pins and wire colors down at the ecu if I wanted to check continuity from the ecu to the coils or igniter? I cannot figure this manual out.

Also, anyone know how to test the igniter without the sst?
Anyone know how to manually hard wire the ignition system up?

I'm an ***, I know.

Thanks.

 

Not sure what happened. I've since seperated all the wires and they look fine.

 

dmm Digital Multimeter

 

if you have the electrical manual that is your best friend in the whole world you NEED TO LEARN HOW TO USE IT!!!!! that is the answer to all of your problems

 

In this case, I helped Lupe and I did use and fully understand Section Z of the manual (Electrical Manual).

Here is the problem.
The subject car is sitting still in the driveway.

Problem--no fire from front and rear chamber leading plugs/or through the wires or at the middle coil pack

fuses in the engine compartment-- tested all OK.

Spark Plugs-New and tested

Spark Plug Wires- tested good

leading Coil pack- tested OK by FMM procedure

Leading coil pack- tested OK and produces fire when the connector for the trailing front coil pack is connected to the leading coil pack

short harness between leading pack coil connector and igniter tests OK
(Lupe I just realized we did not check continuity between the igniter connector and the "short harness connector". The "Yellow/Blue" short harness wire connection has to be checked for continuity with the "Light Green/Black wire coming out of the igniter. All others must be OK because they drive other coils.)

Igniter- replaced without solution of problem

ECU- replaced without solution (PFC replaced with OEM)

continuity tested between wiring in wheel well and igniter connector, all correct.

12v power tested to igniter connector--all correct

Oh and BTW, on an unrelated matter, the MAP sensor was also replaced without solution of the problem.

 

check the coil connector the way i described earlier. it will work trust me. also make sure the condensor wire is still attached to the ignitor and is grounded. ecu pin 1h is the controll for the leading driver a l/b wire ecu side. the ignitor just supplies the ground side to the coils to fire them. if you get no ground pulse from the coil harness and you have swaped ignitors out, make sure about the condensorit has a single blck spade connector on it , i thought it would make a total no spark but..., then you must have a disconnect in the l/b wire from the ecu. you could try pulling the pin from the ignitor harness and running a piggy-backed wire from the 1h spot on the ecu to the now vacant ignitor connector spot. you have swapped ecus with no change correct? because the coil driver in the ecu could be bad. you could also probe the ecu 1h and make sure it is producing a leading coil signal while cranking

 

Thanks Jeff!

Any other ideas, anyone?

 

Thanks, I'll try that. I guess I'll have to wait until jeff48 comes up to help.

 

don't know if this helps but this is how we used to check for spark, get the leading spark plug wire end without the spark plug and have it about 1/2 and inch to your suspension bolt on the strut tower and have somebody crank it to see if there is spark coming out of it. just have him crank it for like a second or two and be carefull since you might get a little shock when you do this.

This way you can actually see if there is spark coming out of the wire.

 

tried that, no spark.

 

oh and the ecu pin out is on page f-164 in my '93' fsm

 

Condensor wire is attached. I've already swapped out computers with no fix. How would I probe the ecu 1h to check for coil signal? Remember, I'm a newb when it comes to electrical work.

Thanks so much for the help so far.

 

I wonder if it could just be a faulty plugs??? well, hope you get rid of this headache soon ... I know how much of a pita it is

 

Plugs are fine.

 

book says it is .2 to .5v oscilating. a good dvm would work fine

 

So hook up the volt meter to 1h and turn the key? I should see .2-.5v, right?