I've got no spark on my leading coil. I've replaced ecu's, ignitors, small coil wiring harness with no fix. I've also ran a jump from the ignitor to the coil harness thinking there might be a break in the wires somewhere. Continuity shows good.


Quick run down of what problem led up to this.

Everytime I would turn right, my car would peter off and die. Finally it wouldn't start up. I looked underneith my front drivers side fender and the tire had rubbed through the wiring harness. It rubbed through the map sensor wire and the light yellow with black stripe, that wire go's to the ignitor. It didn't wear all the way through but wore the outer plastic off so that there was bare wire showing.I seperated those wires for the time being. I know that the 3 bar map sensor was fried because it was showing very weird readings. I hooked up a stock map sensor and it ran for around 5 seconds and then shut off. Readings were back to normal. No spark since then.

Someone please help.

 

have you made sure it's properly grounded?

 

Make sure what's grounded? The coil, it's bolted down if that's what you mean.

 

I'll put it here too. Make sure you have re-adjusted your map sensor settings on your EMS. If you switched to stock, you need to re-calibrate, or the car will not run.

 

The wires in the fender well carrying the ignition signal have steel braided covers around them to reduce noise in the signal. If that braid touches the inner core wire, the signal grounds out and the coil won't get the signal. The braid is grounded somewhere in the harness, BTW.

Dale

 

Spark is the isse here. There is spark to the trailing coils but zero spark to the leading coil. jeff48 tested the leading coild and it tested out good.

 

Yes, that steel braided wire got chewed up pretty good but I've since moved all of if out of the way. I did a jumper straight from the ignitor to the coil and that didn't work.

 

If the jumper isn't shielded, you might be getting some noise.

Also, make sure your spark plugs aren't just really fouled out.

Dale

 

But, I get spark to the trailing coils and they are in that same wire shielding. Plugs are brand new. I plugged the trailing coil connector into the leading coil and it worked. I plugged the primary coil wire into the trailing coil and it didn't work. The problem seems to be somewhere in the wiring or what controls leading coil.

Any ideas?

I'm clueless......

 

Check your crank angle sensors and wiring.

 

Already checked the cas.

If the cas were bad though, I would have no spark anywhere

 

Thanks for the help so far..... guys.

 

get a good test light. make sure it is computer safe and high impedence. on the connector to the leading coil. the fsm will tell you which is the powr which is the ground, it does not matter much you will find out. clip the light on the neg of the battery. prob the connector to the coil on side should light the test light and that will be the power side. should be steady. then put the clip on the batt pos. prob the other terminal. it should pulse with the car cranking. this is the ignitor suppling and removing the ground to the coil so it will collapse and fire the high tension lead. this should put you in the right side of things. also i have seen coils within spec that do not fire that ohm test only looks at the primary windings i belive..

 

have you replaced the amp yet

 

ohm out the harness wiring for the leading coil for open circuits, crank sensors like BOTTLEFED suggested. Id try another igniter, I've gone through a couple bad ones before. There are drivers inside, seperate for trailing vs leading. Id try another.

 

I'll mention the obvious:

EGI fuse?

 

Yes i agree that ignigtion wire probably touched the chassis and fried the hell outta a fuse or something else along the ignition line.

 

All fuses "look" good?

I'll try and do the tests everyone mentioned.

What else could I have fried that has to do with ignition? I've swapped out the computer, ignitor and coil harness already.

 

Test the fuses with a multi-meter (continuity).

Rubbing through wires causes wires to touch - hence shorting out and blowing fuses.

You will get no spark with a blown EGI fuse or damaged EGI relay.

 

But, I only have no spark on my leading. Trailing coils fire fine.

 

My trailing coils fires.
My leading coil doesn't fire.

Is the only thing that could cause this is a break in a wire somewhere?

All help is much appreciated.

 

Actuallly those two use a bizarre wiring setup. I'll have to find you a scanned manual page on it that I have.

 

he's some.

 

sorry..

 

You seem to be a bit frantic here, as if you're not thinking clearly. I'm guessing you'll have much better luck with a thorough, systematic approach.


Can you please re-state all the things you've tried, and what was the result of them?


for instance,

Leading Coil:
1. Replaced coil. No improvement.
2. Connected leading coil to trailing output from igniter. Leading coil fired. This suggests that the leading coil is OK.


Igniter:
1. Replaced igniter. No improvement.


Wires between leading coil & Igniter:
1. Checked for continuity between Leading coil & Igniter. (write result here)
2. (swap wires if possible, similar to what you did with the trailing coil above)


Wires between Igniter & ECU:
1. (Check for continuity, switch wires if possible)

Fuses
...

Relays
...

Spark plugs
...

ECU
...





Good Luck,
-s-


PS, Rotorhead, which manual are those diagrams from? I need to buy a copy of that one.