FPR/FPD Recomendations
#1
Avoid Fuego Racing
Thread Starter
FPR/FPD Recomendations
I am currently redoing my vacuum hoses (thanks to shitty Feugo Racing destroying my car) and while I am in there i am going to go ahead and replace the FPD and FPR. My question is, since the factory FPD alone costs like $85, and an aftermarket FPR has FPD built in (so I hear) is there any reason I shouldn't just get an aftermarket FPR and save money? I am only in the 320hp range and don't plan to go much higher. I also am running a PFC if that matters.
#2
3 and the hit for $100?
iTrader: (1)
FPD is on the stock primary fuel rail on the side where the fuel enters. there is a way to take it off and bypass it, i think its in the FAQ section. an aftermarket FPR would require an aftermarket secondary rail, seing as how the stock FPR is on the stock one. There might be a way to bypass that as well, but its pointless on stock injectors.
#3
Not if you can elimate it!
Itll be easy to bypass both if you are handy at metalwork. Just make up a plate to screw into the rail (youll see what i mean when you remove it, which youll HAVE To do if you plan on removing stock FPR and FPD) and drill the centre of it. Get some pipe of the right diameter with thick ish walls (1-2mm), and cut a shallow groove in it with a lathe. Get a rubber o ring to go in the groove the right size to seal inside the stock rail, now weld this pipe into the plate you made and bang, youve just eliminated your stock FPR and FPD and can just attatch fuel lines to the rail and do whatever the hell you like next.
P.s - if your NOT handy or experienced with metal work i wouldnt suggest trying this yourself. This is a fuel system and as such pretty sensitive to error - a fuel leak is the last thing that you want.
Itll be easy to bypass both if you are handy at metalwork. Just make up a plate to screw into the rail (youll see what i mean when you remove it, which youll HAVE To do if you plan on removing stock FPR and FPD) and drill the centre of it. Get some pipe of the right diameter with thick ish walls (1-2mm), and cut a shallow groove in it with a lathe. Get a rubber o ring to go in the groove the right size to seal inside the stock rail, now weld this pipe into the plate you made and bang, youve just eliminated your stock FPR and FPD and can just attatch fuel lines to the rail and do whatever the hell you like next.
P.s - if your NOT handy or experienced with metal work i wouldnt suggest trying this yourself. This is a fuel system and as such pretty sensitive to error - a fuel leak is the last thing that you want.
#6
Where has my $ gone?
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bay Area, Cal/Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,654
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
2 Posts
You dont need an aftermarket rail for a new FPR(which should eliminate the need for the stock FPD), Just tap the stock rail. See the how to on this page. http://robrobinette.com/how_to_eng_o...0Fuel%20Filter
#7
Avoid Fuego Racing
Thread Starter
Thanks reactor!! Now that I have that cleared up, what FPR should I use? I would like to keep cost down, but don't want a hunk of junk. Like I said, this is not for high HP use.
Trending Topics
#8
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
You can get a Sard replica for about $100. Authentic ones sell for $150, about the price of Areomotive. You'll also need a rail adapter ($20ea) and some 1/8th APT to 8mm hose barb fitting both made by Sard ($10-$20ea). Sard includes a pair of barb or APT to -6 fittings (replica's won't). You will need some fuel hose and find a spot to mount the FPR. You can drill and tap some holes on the fire wall and use the bracket it comes with. Lastly, you will need a gauge to adjust the pressure.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TainoIndian
General Rotary Tech Support
4
01-26-02 01:25 PM
pedro kim
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
56
11-29-01 11:40 PM