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You should have your injectors serviced while they are out. They will clean them, verify flow CC, spray pattern, replace the o-rings, the works.
I'm all ears and eyes on this. Who does that the dealer? I just bought o-rings just in case from rx7.com so I'll gladly hand those over to the person cleaning injectors if needed.
I'm all ears and eyes on this. Who does that the dealer? I just bought o-rings just in case from rx7.com so I'll gladly hand those over to the person cleaning injectors if needed.
In Japan, no idea but the local to you rotary shops probably have a reference.
If you insist on powder coating the fuel rails, make sure you take it to a place that will not coat the important parts - like where the injectors sit, the internals,where the lines attach etc. I'd honestly skip powder coating or painting these parts. Hit them with a wire wheel and wire brush and some carb cleaner to clean them up externally instead.
Last edited by gracer7-rx7; Feb 11, 2023 at 12:52 PM.
Here in the US:- https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/-https://witchhunter.com/-https://www.injector.com/cart/pc/home.asphave all been mentioned on this forum. In Japan, no idea but the local to you rotary shops probably have a reference. If you insist on powder coating the fuel rails, make sure you take it to a place that will not coat the important parts - like where the injectors sit, the internals,where the lines attach etc. I'd honestly skip powder coating or painting these parts. Hit them with a wire wheel and wire brush and some carb cleaner to clean them up externally instead.
Omg thank you! I need to update location. I actually just came to the US (FL) like a month or two ago, and the car arrived late last month. I'll skip powdering the rails. Powder coater wants to sandblast inside too, which I don't like, concerns about pitting. They do know enough not to powder threads and mating surfaces. I tell them anyway, just in case. Just powdering rats nest (I can't help myself). Thank you for the links!! Cheers
How important would you rate those insulators on each rail. If I follow the parts manual the larger goes on the secondary and the smaller on the primary. But when I removed my rails they were opposite. I would love to attach pics of everything, but they never load for me. I get obj displayed.
Anyway, I tested the rails off engine and it held up. EVERYTHING was replaced. Injectors serviced by Marren, and damper and fpr was replaced oem. Hoses (fuel) I bought from autozone? And wrapped it in high temp silicone tape (I love this stuff). But I never knew that the rails just sit on the engine. And I have trust issues. So I am concerned about those insulators before I drop in the rats 🐀 🪹 🪺 nest. Also I broke a rather crispy, and unique looking connection in the back of the water pump. Cheers
*did some looking about the webs and it's the harness side of the connection for the fan sensor switch (f202-18-840A). Anyone know that name of that type of connector?
Last edited by Mugen1800; Mar 17, 2023 at 01:59 AM.
so there are O rings that go between the injector and the rail, and seal the FUEL in (NF01-13-ZG3 and 4)
then there are the two grommets that seal the injector body to the engine, these seal AIR (N3A1-13-257 primary, and NF02-13-257? sec)
there is also a little black plastic spacer that goes on the bolts of the primary rail
All these are intact and have been replaced. I noticed in your photo that the insulation grommets are the same as mine on the primary rail. This was what I was worried about. And as far as that part for the fan switch behind the thermostat, I found this:
I'll let you guys know if it is the right one, incase this happens to someone else. Also waiting on a pig tail for an injector on secondary rail that arrives this morning. I hate dealing with any fluids on this car. 😒
Well, confirmed. This connector fits just fine. Only difference I've see from original is colour and the backing is sort of screwed in. I strongly recommend anyone messing with rats nest or harness to have connectors on hand. So so fragile 😞
It is just the harness side (pigtail?) of the fan switch sensor behind the thermostat housing. I know there is no need to touch it while dealing with fuel rails and rats nest but, I was trying to do something clever but stupid and off it went... just like that.
On another note fuel leak test two seemingly passed. I don't see any leaks and there is a faint faint smell of it, but I have a very strong sense of smell 😞. And figured out photo issue. File size was way too large.
UPDATE: everything is back together somehow and no spare parts.
The good:
- car runs
- fuel smell GONE and no visible signs of it leaking either.
The bad:
- the low level coolant sensor does not turn on, . Never thought I would want it to but I need some sign, because I desoldered the buzzer a LONG time ago. The lamp does illuminates at power on self test.
- small amount of white smoke from front of engine area (I think) when car reaches operating temps. It smells coolant like but my head is foggy.
The brighter side: drove car to see if fan switch sensor is good behind thermostat and it did turn on the fans at 90 c. This was my main concern. I'll have to sort out why the coolant sensor isn't doing a good job. The sensor is fairly new. I did change ignition leads and one plug, but I don't think I broke the wire. I sorted that issue long ago, and if I did do it, then it would keep the light on....
not stay off.
Anyways cheers ladies and gents for the help this far. I feel so bad for anyone in the states not living near spare parts. This took over a month.....
. Never thought I would want it to but I need some sign, because I desoldered the buzzer a LONG time ago. The lamp does illuminates at power on self test.
