Yesterday evening it was very hot and humid in Germantown, MD (98F). I took the FD out to run an errand and go to the gym.

I stretched her out a little on the highway to blow out some carbon and she ran great until I left the gym. About 1 mile from my house, out of no where the car barely idled. It wouldn't go into boost at all. I eased her into the garage and the motor sounded like ****!!!

The exhaust smelled really really rich and it had a dark color to it. The car often stalled and the vaccum held steady at 10psi as opposed to its normal 20psi. Temperatures were fine. Check engine light never came on. Fluids were fine. No leaks under the car. No boost leaks.

I have just installed my exhaust and ever since, I've noticed that the A/F is running one to two bars richer which makes me hope it's a plug. Are these cars known for fouling plugs?

My car only has 25,750 original miles on it. It's bone stock except for the exhaust which I did 3 weeks ago.

Sorry about the long post. I just want to be as descriptive as possible. Let me know what you guys think

 

Your MAP sensor (boost sensor) is off, when this happens your car runs rich and idles like ****. You will have to recconect it, reset the computer and change your plugs (They are probably fouled) and oil. If you dont know how to do this do a search on MAP sensor Im sure you will find alot of info.

 

Finally, my first sigh of relief in 12 hours. Thanks man!! Why would the map sensor be off? I don't really tinker with anything on the car. Thanks for the tip. Anyone else's input is still appreciated. I know how opininons can vary on this forum.

 

The MAP sensor senses boost so the little hose that is connected to it gets preassurized when you open the car up to full boost and can pop off if not secured properly. Especially when you blow out the Carbon deposits

 

Okay, To reset the computer, you just unhook the battery for a few minutes correct? Is there a more sophisticated method? I want to pick up some plugs on my way home. Which do you recommend?

Why does the oil have to be changed?

 

get the ngk stock plugs, they are the best out there. make sure you get that map sensor hose on there good too, it is very important and annoying if it keeps popping off.

 

Ok fir you have to reconnect the MAP sensor there is a small hose that comes off the back of th the intake manifold and get connected to a small filter before going into the MAP sensor. (The filter kinda looks like a small top). Make sure all the hoses are securely connected. The actual MAP sensor sits on the driver side passenger firewall.

Then you reset the computer - Disconnect the ground from the battery and hold the brake down for 30 seconds then reconnect the battery.

Then you change the plugs. The y should be pretty fouled. Ive actually seen some dripping with gas.

Then replace the oil. You may have gotten a little gas in there, this is some times refered to by its technical name "stinky oil".

Then you start her up preferably in a open area cuz it may smoke as its burning of the gas.

And voils running 7.

You may want to get ties of a different hose to secure the map sensor hose. Mine has been blown off three times under heavy boost. Im currently in the process of trying 3mm silicon hose for a more snug fit.

 

Thanks for the tips man....I'm going to stop by track auto on my way home and get the NGK plugs.

Is it alright If I ziptie the ends of the hose in order to secure it?

 

What would I do without all of you guys?????

 

i ziptied mine it was better but then the other day it popped off so im gonna try the silicone hose a friend sudggested.

Its not a big deal if it pops off. You notice it right away. I carry a 10 mm wrench in my car now so i can disconnect ground and reset my puter if it happens. As long as you dont drive around on it you wont foul the plugs.

Good luck.

 

Why do you have to reset the ECU. When my popped off (the same day I bought the car BTW, very scary) I just put the hose back on and everything was fine.

 

Pardon my newbieness but are there two or four plugs?

 

4 plugs,

a leading and trailing in each rotor housing.

 

If you dont reset the ECU and have been driving on it it screws up the fuel settings.

I dont know if you have to reset it if you notice it right away, but its easy to rest the ECU so better safe than sorry.

 

LOL......If I'm able to fix this on my own then I'll be passing on the info to the next newbie. It's like a "handmedown" type of thing.

 

I hope you guys are right. I spiked my boost to 15 and drove home not realizing that the MAP was disconnected and now the car runs like **** and smells really rich. I havent replaced the plugs yet but I am hoping that is the cause. What size wrench do you need to replace the plugs and can it be done from above , I can reach the two by the firewall but the front two seem kind of hard to reach from above. let me know and thanks for all the good info. Also what would cause the car to spike to 15 psi in third gear only at 6000rpm?

 

plugs are easier when changed from underneath in my opinion.

 

RIKKI YOURE MY HERO lol

 

i DISCONNECT AND THEN TURN THE HEADLIGHT ON FOR A FEW SECONDS TO LET ANY EXCESS DISCHARGE OUT.

WELL, AFTER GOING THROUGH 5 ENGINES, IT SEEMS THAT IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN BLOWN.

BUT THERE MAY BE OTHER PROBLEMS...

 

With one of these from Sears it's easy to change from above.

 

What size socket?

 

You guys rock. I found the disconnected hose and fixed it. It smoked for a second and then it was fine. I took it for a test drive and it would only hit 6psi. I was worried. I could also hear some sort of air escaping. Suddenly it hit 10 psi and stayed steady. What was it doing? Blowing out excess air? Bleeding itself? Thanks anyway. Problem solved.

 

Sounds like a leaking coupler between the y-pipe and the crossover pipe. Or it could be leaking from the y-pipe to the intercooler.