fluctuating temp gauge
#1
Huh?
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fluctuating temp gauge
Where do I start? Well, last weekend I took the fd out for a relaxing drive. After parking the car for a few hours, I went out to start it up and got the low coolant light & buzzer. I checked the coolant level, and everything looked fine there. I then removed the radiator cap (closest to intake) and didnt see any coolant. I added about a glass of water, and the level came up. I then ran the car for a few minutes, checked for leaks, checked the exhaust for a coolant smell, found nothing. I drove the car home, and on the way I thought I saw my greddy water temp gauge spike about 7 degrees c for a split second. This has happened in the past too. very rarely, it will sort of spike for a split second (happened a total of 5 times maybe). Now after I got home I did some more checking around. I burped the system, and it seemed like there was a fair amount of air in there. Since I burped the system, I have not noticed any loss in coolant nor have I seem my gauge spike. So my question is this: Is my guage spiking because the air is hotter than the coolant? Or is my gauge failing? I installed my gauge in the TB coolant line if it matters.
I should stress that my car runs flawlessly. It has never overheated, or even come close. My idle is rock solid (about 750rpm), my temps are rock solid (85-95c cruising 100c average at idle), and I have a perfect boost pattern. My exhaust is clear with no smoking whatsoever (except some condensation once in a blue moon). I have spent the last couple of months working out the kinks to get it this far so I can begin upgrading.
My car: 93 touring SS with 80k on original motor
My mods:
Tein coilovers, blitz sbc-id boost controller, greddy water temp, oil temp, oil press, fuel press., downpipe, HKS turbo timer (I use it as a fan timer, so dont flame me).
Future mods coming in a few weeks: BNR stage 3, RB duals, intake (not sure which yet), Koyo radiator, PFC, and PLX m-300 wideband. Possible engine rebuild depending on compression test results this weekend....
John
I should stress that my car runs flawlessly. It has never overheated, or even come close. My idle is rock solid (about 750rpm), my temps are rock solid (85-95c cruising 100c average at idle), and I have a perfect boost pattern. My exhaust is clear with no smoking whatsoever (except some condensation once in a blue moon). I have spent the last couple of months working out the kinks to get it this far so I can begin upgrading.
My car: 93 touring SS with 80k on original motor
My mods:
Tein coilovers, blitz sbc-id boost controller, greddy water temp, oil temp, oil press, fuel press., downpipe, HKS turbo timer (I use it as a fan timer, so dont flame me).
Future mods coming in a few weeks: BNR stage 3, RB duals, intake (not sure which yet), Koyo radiator, PFC, and PLX m-300 wideband. Possible engine rebuild depending on compression test results this weekend....
John
#2
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Try making a note of the coolant level in the overflow when the engine is hot. Let it sit overnight, and while completely cold recheck the level. It should be lower. If it isn't, I'd suspect a leak. Water going into your overflow but not being syphoned back out as the engine cools. You could have the system pressure tested to be sure. It could be a bad cap, a loose line or hose, or a bad coolant seal.
#5
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Air pockets in your coolant system allow a lower boiling point because of the lower system pressure. Boiling coolant means steam, which obviously has a much higher temp; this is what your sensor was probably reading momentarily before some coolant managed to flow through the line and bring it back to earth.
#6
Huh?
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Air pockets in your coolant system allow a lower boiling point because of the lower system pressure. Boiling coolant means steam, which obviously has a much higher temp; this is what your sensor was probably reading momentarily before some coolant managed to flow through the line and bring it back to earth.
Thats along the lines of what I was thinking.
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