Flooding and extreme power loss...
#1
Aint no broke nigga
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Location: Seymour, TN
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Flooding and extreme power loss...
When I give it enough gas or around 4.5k i lose total power(as if im gettin too much or not enough fuel from the secondaries), Here recently after i let it warm up and turn it off it will not start back up and sometimes backfire, but an hour or so later it'll start rgiht up and smoke(as if its flooded). The car feels like its got a lot more power when its cold, but when it warms up it loses all power when secondaries are suppose to kick in, I also catch around 6 psi of boost..Injectors are plugged up, i am running pfc with base map, stock injectors, and re-wired supra fuel pump...thanks
#2
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You must remove the injectors and get them tested/serviced. Do it soon. FD injectors are too fussy and too critical to settle for anything less.
If you don't have a week to wait for your own injectors to come back: I was able to buy a set of freshly cleaned injectors (from Japan2LA, IIRC) and sell mine after they were cleaned.
If they're sticking, you're not getting the fuel delivered that the ECU is counting on. Since you are able to get boost, you are also able to blow your motor if you go lean under boost. Although one injector might be dumping rich so that the smoke/flooding suggests a richness problem, remember another injector might have the opposite problem and still blow your motor.
If you don't have a week to wait for your own injectors to come back: I was able to buy a set of freshly cleaned injectors (from Japan2LA, IIRC) and sell mine after they were cleaned.
If they're sticking, you're not getting the fuel delivered that the ECU is counting on. Since you are able to get boost, you are also able to blow your motor if you go lean under boost. Although one injector might be dumping rich so that the smoke/flooding suggests a richness problem, remember another injector might have the opposite problem and still blow your motor.
#3
Aint no broke nigga
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The injectors were cleaned/serviced back in march of '05 and haven't been used too much since then, so I didnt think that could be the problem...
#4
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So wes...did Howie happen to tell you about the 45psi compression test we ran on that engine? I am willing to bet that he left that part out.
IF this thread goes like his normally do, everyone will post suggestions and wes will dismiss each of them immediately saying "it's already been done" and then get pissed that no one is helping. lol.
IF this thread goes like his normally do, everyone will post suggestions and wes will dismiss each of them immediately saying "it's already been done" and then get pissed that no one is helping. lol.
#5
Admitted 'rexaholic'
45PSI?? I told him just last night about hard warm starts=low compression. I was under the impression that the engine had a recent rebuild.
Crap....
Kev, would you do a quickie compression test one day this week if he runs it up there? We need to know where we're at...
Crap....
Kev, would you do a quickie compression test one day this week if he runs it up there? We need to know where we're at...
Last edited by mwpayne; 03-12-06 at 06:48 PM.
#6
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That was the engine that I built about 1.5 years ago for my car. I "broke it in" at deals gap then 2 weeks later another guy talked me out of it. He did who knows what with it then howie got the car back. And we know what all howie did with it, including the time we took it out for some runs and it was hitting 16-18AFR under boost because of a loose hose. It tested 85/45. I lend a lot of it to the fact that it has RA apex seals, which some guys have reported lose compression and strip the chrome off the housings in 10-20k miles....and that's right at the place where this one is.
IF you just want an overall number, a piston tester will work fine for you with the valve still installed. Warm it up fully, remove the EGI fuse, and remove one plug per chamber (I'd use the upper holes on an FD). Test for 10 seconds, and repeat on the other chamber.
IF you just want an overall number, a piston tester will work fine for you with the valve still installed. Warm it up fully, remove the EGI fuse, and remove one plug per chamber (I'd use the upper holes on an FD). Test for 10 seconds, and repeat on the other chamber.
#7
Admitted 'rexaholic'
So, if I understand correctly, the engine was rebuilt about 20k ago using the RA seals. These seals may have stripped the chrome from the housings, resulting in the low comoression. It's not the typical worn out apex seals, so 'theoretically', since the seals themselves aren't worn, the car could go as is for a good while, right?.
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