Fixed a fuel leak, now I have high idle
Fixed a fuel leak, now I have high idle
Well as the title says i finally fixed my fuel leak by replacing both fuel lines under the UIM.
I removed:
UIM
ACV
Fuel lines
Distributor boxes
and all lines connected to these devices
I'm pretty sure i hooked all the vac lines back up so i'm not sure why my idle is high. It's idling anywhere from 1200-1500.
Tried searching but didn't really come up with anything.
I removed:
UIM
ACV
Fuel lines
Distributor boxes
and all lines connected to these devices
I'm pretty sure i hooked all the vac lines back up so i'm not sure why my idle is high. It's idling anywhere from 1200-1500.
Tried searching but didn't really come up with anything.
Best way to see if you have a vacuum leak is to pressurize the uim/lim with an air compressor and the engine off. I would most likely attribute that change to a vacuum leak so I would keep trying to find one. Otherwise I would say maybe you richened the idle with the fix of the leak and thereby increased the idle. Now adjust out the high idle with the idle air bleed screw at the bottom of the throttle body.
Best way to see if you have a vacuum leak is to pressurize the uim/lim with an air compressor and the engine off. I would most likely attribute that change to a vacuum leak so I would keep trying to find one. Otherwise I would say maybe you richened the idle with the fix of the leak and thereby increased the idle. Now adjust out the high idle with the idle air bleed screw at the bottom of the throttle body.
thats a good thought! didn't think about that. The only problem is it isn't always the same rpm and sometimes it fluctuates, so I dont know if it could be the throttle cable.
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Sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you try spraying car cleaner around under the uim to see if the idle drops? Did you pull the fuel rails when you replaced the hoses? The primary rail is notorious for vacuum leaks at the insulator grommets. It is difficult to sit the rail in properly with the motor in the car and the lim in the way. It is hard to get the right angle and often an insulator grommet will shift and become punched. Also, you should always replace these grommets when pulling the rails. If your car still has the original paper lim gasket, it is possible to disturb it when working in the area and you might be in for a world of work. Hopefully that is not the case so check everything else first.
Actually, with your symptoms, it could easily be the throttle cable. Friction in the cable/linkage could easily make the idle vary depending on how the throttle is released (quickly or slowly). Did you loosen the cable adjusting nuts to get at the fuel leak?
My thing is a loose throttle cable would cause the rpm's to dance around?
Not for idle. You can adjust the idle with that pipe removed. Your order of operations is very clear here.
If none of that works, it could be tuning... Timing and fuel definately have a large impact on idle level. If you are still using the factory control of idle, then it is unlikely that this is the cause and that brings me back to the first item...Vacuum leak.
Last edited by cozmo kraemer; Aug 25, 2008 at 01:42 PM.
Then it comes time to Rremove and inspect under the UIM to make sure there are no less obvious vacuum leaks as Dave was refering to.
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