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First post, the car won't start!

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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 02:26 PM
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Talking First post, the car won't start!

Hey just got my 7 in feb this year. Its had a couple of probs (coolant related fixed with crc blockweld ) that I've been able to solve. My current problem is that the car won't start.

I was on the highway when I noticed that when the car was in neutral it was stalling! "AT THE TIME" If i popped the clutch it would push start. I haven't tried to push start it since that day. I also happend to hit traffic at this time so I pulled over. Right when I stopped the low coolant buzzer came on. Of course having hella coolant problems I had a gal. of distilled water in the car. what was crazy is that when I went to bleed pressure there wasn't any. I had it towed to the house thinking it was the water pump, but turned out to be a busted hose behind the airpump. The car had been sitting for at most 5 days without being started. About 3 of those days was spent taking off equip replacing some coolant hoses and the Serpentine Belt. NOW I knew I would need to jump start the car because I have the fan mod done, and left it on by accdent while waiting for tow. To my surprise the car didn't start.

I've replaced the spark plugs, checked for spark, & tried 2 diffrent de-flood methods. I just had to stop because it started drizzling and I'm working out side. Anything else that I should try? By the way I don't think I'm getting any error codes, and when I try to start the car she just spins. Car is mostly stock only a downpipe a parallel 10 -14 guage wire running from altenator to positive battery lead, negitive lead to chassis, fan-mod and a boost guage.

thanks

in advance

J
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 03:24 PM
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Sorry your first post had to be a potentially very bad situation.
Can you check compression? If you dont have a compression tested you can remove a spark plug and crank over the motor, listen for even pulses. Try this on both front and rear rotor.
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 05:17 PM
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From: PA
Did you try resetting the ECU? Pull the POS off the batt and hold the brake down to reset.
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 05:31 PM
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apeiron
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Welcome to the life of the rx-7. Cross your fingers that the engine isnt trash.
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 05:52 PM
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From: virginia
Looks like I won't know anything untill 2night or 2marrow its still raining.. Its all good even if it is trash, trash can be recycled. I just have to get my beater running so I can fund the rebuild .

holla

J
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 06:16 PM
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always pull the neg on a batt first. also to reset the comp. are you getting spark? fuel? why the cable from the alt?
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Old Jul 25, 2004 | 12:25 PM
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Tested for spark yesterday It was kind of white orange-ish. I tested with a new plug arcing to the engine bay. I have yet to do the compression test, but when I was trying to de-flood the engine I took out all 4 plugs. When I cranked the faces all sounded the same (kinda like a paintball gun) I hope its going to be something silly that I've overlooked. Its the not knowing what it is thats killin' me.

Holla
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Old Jul 25, 2004 | 10:11 PM
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You don't *think* you are getting any codes? Have you tried pulling them from the ECU? The engine temp sensor was what I was thinking could be bad here.

Good luck,

-bill
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 08:09 AM
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"Have you tried pulling them from the ECU?" No. I wouldn't even begin to know how to do that. I guess its time to do some research huh.. props to whom ever can post it here before I find out how to do it on the net
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 09:32 AM
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Go read the "newbies" srticles. Also http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/. If you are going to own an FD you have to understand the car. This requires work on your part.
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 09:51 AM
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Thx wrank, thats the first place I looked . It's just cleared up a little & I'm already finished with jumper. wish me luck.

J
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 10:26 AM
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No problem. Good luck and let us know what you find.

-bill
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 12:07 PM
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From: virginia
No codes engine light went out after 5 sec. I read the F section of the shop manual and it states that codes are shown in 10 & then 1 sec. increments. My light went off after 5 sec of being solid. I was also reading that temp guage not being grounded might cause the engine not to start. Is the ground the top right bolt that holds the connector for the water temp to filler neck and, from there to the engine block? If so I twisted that off like 2 months ago by accident. I played around with the muli-meter and I was getting crazy signals all over the filler neck. It didn't seem like it was conductive at all.. I just cleaned the back of the "holding washer" and the area around where it will be resting. I guess I'll have to drill that stud out and thread a new bolt. I also head that the main fuse could be suspect I checked with MM and it zeroed out so I guess thats not it

I also did a compression test on the back rotor I think it was 35 - 40 on all three sides, I know that the readings are S*itty, but I've also read that cold compression tests aren't conclusive?? <-- advice, comments

mad_7tist
I have the cable from the alt to pos term to "UP YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM" as per scuderiaciriani.com check it out http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/e...eshooting.html
I've had this done for about a month as well. I want to get a smaller gauge cable to make the charging / grounding a lil more effective

Holla
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 04:40 PM
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From: virginia
No Compression on the first rotor. ladies and gentelmen my 13b has left the building! any Comments on what I extra stuff I should do to the car / motor while I'm resealing it? I plan on doing a lot of the wiring, I think i should do the tranny while I'm at it as well. any comments thnx for helping trouble shoot thus far.

J
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 05:03 PM
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From: Austin Tx
nothing on all three faces? You may want to try that again, especially if you heard three chugs from the front housing. No compression would require two broken apex seals. If you break one, generally you only loose compression on two faces, not all three. Unless the seal came out in pieces and destroyed the others.

Probably is dead but I think its at least worth checking again before you rip it out and rebuild it.

Another word of advice. You sound young, but semi intelligent none the less. Im sure you could rebuild the motor yourself with the rebuild video ( least expensive option by far ). If you are going to rebuild I would go by the video from RotaryAviation.com and see if you think you could do it yourself. Honestly, its really not that bad.
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Old Jul 26, 2004 | 07:03 PM
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From: virginia
Thnx bee, I appreciate your semi comment u damned elitist.
I'm sure the worst of it will be gettin' the motor / tranny out of the car. I'll go ahead and try again on the first housing. lets pray I get betta results this time. I'll be sure to add the video to my big list of things to get.

Holla
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